Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

TheNickFox · Jan 30, 2015

Since you guys are currently playing around with Dremeling, here's a thought:

Perhaps you could Dremel the BOTTOM of the heel of the sole to thin it out (In fact, it would probably look "right" if the rear lip of the sole was carved away past the clear midsole until it was visible from behind just like it is on the RDs...if that makes sense) as well as shape the heel cup further. Since the thickness of the sole's heel is one of the things that still hasn't been matched from the RDs.

Here's a quick image showing where the removal and reshaping would occur:

Screen Shot 2015-01-30 at 2.28.24 PM.png

And a quick photoshop of how it MIGHT look when done:

Screen Shot 2015-01-30 at 2.28.36 PM.png

Not sure if it would work, but it could help solve one of the remaining problems that these things have. So it's interesting to think about at least.

-Nick

rhodrijen · Jan 30, 2015

TheNickFox said:
Since you guys are currently playing around with Dremeling, here's a thought:

Perhaps you could Dremel the BOTTOM of the heel of the sole to thin it out (In fact, it would probably look "right" if the rear lip of the sole was carved away past the clear midsole until it was visible from behind just like it is on the RDs...if that makes sense) as well as shape the heel cup further. Since the thickness of the sole's heel is one of the things that still hasn't been matched from the RDs.

Here's a quick image showing where the removal and reshaping would occur:

View attachment 432949

And a quick photoshop of how it MIGHT look when done:

View attachment 432950

Not sure if it would work, but it could help solve one of the remaining problems that these things have. So it's interesting to think about at least.

-Nick

Really like this idea, going to give it a go tomorrow when my Dremel arrives.

airair · Jan 30, 2015

glasses said:
@cavx it would cost 22 bucks to get enough el for the soles id rather not spend 44 and possibly waste half I want to put as little money into these shoes as possible cos if I hit that 230 mark I'll feel like an idiot for not just going ahead and getting a v2

You have to ask for Blue/Green or Aqua EL Sheets.

Most sellers will have them. Pictures can't be used to measure the accurate colour.
I've taken pictures of my own shoes in various lighting and sometimes they look greenish and sometimes less so.

glasses · Jan 30, 2015

can anyone tell me how i would connect this jst to this button?

cavx · Jan 30, 2015

glasses said:
@cavx it would cost 22 bucks to get enough el for the soles id rather not spend 44 and possibly waste half I want to put as little money into these shoes as possible cos if I hit that 230 mark I'll feel like an idiot for not just going ahead and getting a v2

I get that. What is scary is that right now, that same $230USD is $296AUD! When I bought my first pair for $250USD, I paid less than you guys because at the time the AUD was somewhere between $1.05 and $1.10 USD. I had a quick add up of what I have spend on molding and casting and other bits for these shoes so far and I just broke $2K!

glasses said:
Does anyone have that el template? I rember seeing it somewhere I just can't remember if it's in here or not
edit - page 200 if anyone else needs it

glasses here you go

Print this at 1:1 first, them reduce the file size until it fits your shoes. A US9.5 or 10 should be able 90% of the original.

TheNickFox said:
Since you guys are currently playing around with Dremeling, here's a thought:

Perhaps you could Dremel the BOTTOM of the heel of the sole to thin it out (In fact, it would probably look "right" if the rear lip of the sole was carved away past the clear midsole until it was visible from behind just like it is on the RDs...if that makes sense) as well as shape the heel cup further. Since the thickness of the sole's heel is one of the things that still hasn't been matched from the RDs.

Here's a quick image showing where the removal and reshaping would occur:

Not sure if it would work, but it could help solve one of the remaining problems that these things have. So it's interesting to think about at least.

-Nick

rhodrijen said:
Really like this idea, going to give it a go tomorrow when my Dremel arrives.

I would NOT be Dremiling where the outer sole joins the mid-sole. I think your asking for trouble if you do that and are not able to build it back up.

Guys, the reason my Heel Cups appear taller now is that I gained extra size because I pulled them out from the inside to the outside. I gained 3mm or 1/8". This meant that I lost 1/8" on the back of the mid-sole. I just didn't not cut it away. Please be careful. Sure you can reshape by under cutting the heel cup, but i caution against cutting down that mid-sole.

This is what it looks like before it is rounded.

rhodrijen · Jan 30, 2015

Thanks for that, warning definitely taken on board.

I liked the idea of making a few subtle changes to the mid sole with the Dremel, like on the inside of the foot where the RD and especially Cloneprops model tends to slope inwards, whereas the V2 is flat. Definitely going to take it easy though.

Just had to spend 2 hours correcting some mistakes I made the other night.

glasses · Jan 30, 2015

Tweaked my heels again today then re painted the area I dremmeled my decals should be here around the 10th I've seen a lot of people just apply them no mods but I want to try something I think could really give the heel decals the prefect look the real mags and v2s have grey paint on all the letters edges becuase they're molded on the heel and then painted so I'm going to mimic that by lining the edges with the same grey I used on my soles hopefully it gives the decals the look of being part of the actual heel cup

TheNickFox · Jan 30, 2015

Okay, so I just retread the first 100 pages (Seriously) and have a question that doesn't seem to be answered. What are people using to "black out" the center of their EL in their soles, the part between the two bumps?

Also how are most EL contacts bent or hidden there as well?

I'm going to buy a HC pair soon and I'm just trying to plan ahead.

-Nick

Jedifyfe · Jan 30, 2015

Finally finishing my wife's pair. Size 8.

airair · Jan 31, 2015

TheNickFox said:
Okay, so I just retread the first 100 pages (Seriously) and have a question that doesn't seem to be answered. What are people using to "black out" the center of their EL in their soles, the part between the two bumps?

Also how are most EL contacts bent or hidden there as well?

I'm going to buy a HC pair soon and I'm just trying to plan ahead.

-Nick

You can use grey electrical tape or grey vinyl sticker paper.

What I usually do is cut out very thin short strips, and then stick these on where I've drawn the outlines.

Same with the far end side which has the el sheet pins.

Depending on which type of el sheet you are using. You can either fold the wires behind the sheet or bend the el connection pins.

The el sheets I have come with long floppy thin ends, so they are easy to fold over.

I'll try see if I can dig out a picture.

TheNickFox · Jan 31, 2015

airair said:
You can use grey electrical tape or grey vinyl sticker paper.

What I usually do is cut out very thin short strips, and then stick these on where I've drawn the outlines.

Same with the far end side which has the el sheet pins.

Depending on which type of el sheet you are using. You can either fold the wires behind the sheet or bend the el connection pins.

The el sheets I have come with long floppy thin ends, so they are easy to fold over.

I'll try see if I can dig out a picture.

My hero. After rereading the first hundred pages (I figured since I've suggested other people do it, it should try it too haha) I had nearly lost hope. Especially since there were a few people who asked the question, getting my hopes up that I was soon to find the answer...only to never be responded to. Haha

Thanks, man!

I also bit the bullet and bought some HCs to mod and knock around, but longer term, I'm looking to work on a more accurate set...but that's a VERY long term goal.

...and since it was my first purchase from the site, I got 20% off. So for $84 shipped, I couldn't really afford NOT to get them even if they are terribly inaccurate.

-Nick

cavx · Jan 31, 2015

Cool looks everyone is back to modding which is really cool

Still not 100%, but way better than my last attempt. This was done using the rubber mixed with aqua at about 20mins, so at the end of the liquid pot life and into the gel state. When it is here, it strings nice, but there are a few parts that are a bit chunky. The beauty of the rubber Vs paint here is that I can still peel off the parts that are too thick and mix a new batch and add some dots.

glasses · Jan 31, 2015

ok so I guess this seller you guys all talk about at aliexpress no longer sells v2s so if I take the risk and buy shoes from this place and they take forever to send them or act sketchy is there any way to get my money back? cavx Jedifyfe airair

cavx · Jan 31, 2015

glasses are you referring to Karin Chen? I have heard she has stopped selling these.

If you are buying from another seller, best to email them first and make sure you get conformation that the seller has stock. You should still have full buyers protection on the site.

glasses · Jan 31, 2015

cavx do I pay with my visa? I just want to make sure I'll be covered if things go south id hate to loose 230 bucks

cavx · Jan 31, 2015

glasses I used Master Card and had no issues. In fact when the V2s first came out back in 2012 at $109 and that all went belly up when the companies would send an email stating "you pay more money, we send shoes", I got a full refund from that too.

Just email them first. Let them confirm they have the stock on hand.

Some of the things guys have asked for include -

a photo of the shoes they will send.
"good splatter"
no glue stains.

With my first pair (now my wear pair) I asked for a "good pair" and they were pretty much perfect for "out of the box". For my 2nd pair I, didn't, and they didn't look as good as my first. I asked again for my 3rd pair were pretty much perfect again.

glasses · Jan 31, 2015

cavx so youve been refunded no problems before? i just want to know for sure im not risking losing money if i get a bad pair or no shoes at all

cavx · Jan 31, 2015

@glasses

So the very first pair ordered came from a different site where they showed the RD MAG, not the V2 and then had it listed at $109USD. After they sent the emails asking for more money, I put the dispute and I got my full $109USD back. That was at the main launch in 2012. I didn't buy again until 2013 when I bought from Karin Chen at the recommendation of Taff83.

Karin sold the shoes for $250USD. The first pair was (US9.5) prefect. The 2nd pair (US9.5) had one of the LEDs out on the left shoe and the splatter was not great. She did not refund the money on the 2nd pair but offered me a discount on the next pair I ordered. From memory she gave me $15 ($250 - $15 = $235USD) off my 3rd pair (US8 for display).

She used to communicate well and always gave free shipping.

She was going to match a $209USD price if I bought 5 pairs. I was keen, but the other guys I was organizing the buy for pulled out, so it never went ahead.

jhk1976 · Jan 31, 2015

Does anyone here in mod-land have a good resource for the vinyl or pleather needed to make a new strap for the EL? I spent my afternoon visiting five different fabric stores and came up short. I found several vinyls that could work, but none of them were a bright enough white. They were all off-white. There's no shortage of online options, but I fear ordering something site unseen will result in an incorrect guess.

cavx · Jan 31, 2015

Buy a can of white vinyl dye and colour code that way the only thing you really have to worry about is the texture.

As I said, still not 100% perfect but heaps better than the last attempt. So as I explained earlier, I used aqua tinted rubber for the splatter but let it go from liquid state into gel state. From there and over the course of about 6 hours, it goes into a solid state as it cures and sets.

The beauty beauty of using rubber is that -
A. It bonds to the existing grey rubber and
B. It can be peeled off within a short time frame if you get it wrong.

I've already removed a big blob from the toe and thinned out a few of the side and heel parts. I'll pick at it some more no doubt tonight as I look over them and think I have got too many overly thick bits.

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