Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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To everyone who ordered their V2 pairs from the link in the shopping list:

Do they really fit 1/2 size too big? I normally wear a US 10, tried to order a 9.5 but the seller told me he cannot get a 9.5 right now, only 8.5 and 10. :facepalm
 
To everyone who ordered their V2 pairs from the link in the shopping list:

Do they really fit 1/2 size too big? I normally wear a US 10, tried to order a 9.5 but the seller told me he cannot get a 9.5 right now, only 8.5 and 10. :facepalm

I think you should go for a 10. If you do the toe mod (cut or steam method), you'll lose some space.
8,5 won't fit at all if you're a 10.
 
I think you should go for a 10. If you do the toe mod (cut or steam method), you'll lose some space.
8,5 won't fit at all if you're a 10.

Ideally, how much space would someone want between their toe and the shoes toe-tip before performing either toe mod method?

Does either method make the shoe tighter side to side?
 
Ideally, how much space would someone want between their toe and the shoes toe-tip before performing either toe mod method?

Does either method make the shoe tighter side to side?

Probably 1/2" after the toe mod. I didn't think they fitted any tighter at the sides. You do lose room in the toe box.
 
Probably 1/2" after the toe mod. I didn't think they fitted any tighter at the sides. You do lose room in the toe box.

Okay, but what distance would you want it to be before the mod? For instance, my big toe is about half-inch from the shoe tip. Is that enough?

I could go one size up and get about 3/4 inch between the toe and the shoe tip. Maybe I'll steam it first and see how that goes.

Also, that's good to know. The shoe is already a little snug, I don't need it tighter at the sides.
 
To everyone who ordered their V2 pairs from the link in the shopping list:

Do they really fit 1/2 size too big? I normally wear a US 10, tried to order a 9.5 but the seller told me he cannot get a 9.5 right now, only 8.5 and 10. :facepalm

Get the 10's.
 
Okay, but what distance would you want it to be before the mod? For instance, my big toe is about half-inch from the shoe tip. Is that enough?

I could go one size up and get about 3/4 inch between the toe and the shoe tip. Maybe I'll steam it first and see how that goes.

Also, that's good to know. The shoe is already a little snug, I don't need it tighter at the sides.

Hard to say as the height of the toe drops and if your toe nail didn't rub on the inside of the toe box before, it most likely will after. The length stays the same as you are not cutting the rubber, but as the toe box slopes after the mod, the space inside is reduded.

Before the mod, my 9.5s (9 for the HC line) were a touch loose. Even though these are listed in US sizes, I think they are actually UK sizing and why they are larger than the normal size. Initially I packed them out using a new sock liner over the top of the original sock liner. After the toe mod, these felt tighter. After the tongue mod tighter again.

Maybe I should just pull out the original sock liner to tet back a small amount of space.
 
Hard to say as the height of the toe drops and if your toe nail didn't rub on the inside of the toe box before, it most likely will after. The length stays the same as you are not cutting the rubber, but as the toe box slopes after the mod, the space inside is reduded.

Before the mod, my 9.5s (9 for the HC line) were a touch loose. Even though these are listed in US sizes, I think they are actually UK sizing and why they are larger than the normal size. Initially I packed them out using a new sock liner over the top of the original sock liner. After the toe mod, these felt tighter. After the tongue mod tighter again.

Maybe I should just pull out the original sock liner to tet back a small amount of space.

Ok, that's understandable enough. It's like the difference between the toe-box in my snow boots and my walking shoes.

So basically if you hadn't put in an extra liner, the shoe after toe-mod would probably fit about normal?
Was that steam or cut method? I can't remember which one you did the video on.

I think I might just have to put them on again, and stare at them a really long time and just guess. Too many variables.
 
So basically if you hadn't put in an extra liner, the shoe after toe-mod would probably fit about normal?

Would be a looser fit? It is not an uncomfortable "tight", just snug.

Was that steam or cut method? I can't remember which one you did the video on.

Steam method. I wasn't game to do the cut method at the time. I might have a go soon as I did an open heel surgery on my shoes and that bond is now way stronger than the original. The point of concern, there is no exposed fabric at the back either.

I think I might just have to put them on again, and stare at them a really long time and just guess. Too many variables.

I wore mine un-modded for months, then one day decided to have a go. Had a pretty decent win and kept doing more and more to them.
careful, modding becomes an addiction.
 
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Would be a looser fit? It is not an uncomfortable "tight", just snug.



Steam method. I wasn't game to do the cut method at the time. I might have a go soon as I did an open heel surgery on my shoes and that bond is now way stronger than the original. The point of concern, there is no exposed fabric at the back either.



I wore mine un-modded for months, then one day decided to have a go. Had a pretty decent win and kept doing more and more to them.
careful, modding becomes an addiction.

I'll need to recheck my toe height I guess and make sure I got enough overhead space to do the slimming. I'll probably stick to the steam method too.

I'm definitely doing this mod. I'm making a strap too. I'm still looking into EL mods for the sole as well. I looked into the price list linked from page 200, it doesn't cost as much as I thought it would. I've even been considering other colors besides aqua/cyan EL, looking at blue or maybe even red.
 
So i tried something to try and remedy the uppers not being stiff, and trying to solve the 'wings' that occur.

20150116_170120.jpg

Excuse the upside down photo.

Its not very elegant but certainly does the job, basically added a piece of clear plastic around the top of the collar to keep it from moving.

20150116_170210.jpg
(Don't mind the button placement, i've got new switches on the way that actually fit inside the collar)

20150116_170310.jpg

Basically this means you can wear them with the straps open and they stay together :)
 
So i tried something to try and remedy the uppers not being stiff, and trying to solve the 'wings' that occur.

View attachment 426793

Excuse the upside down photo.

Its not very elegant but certainly does the job, basically added a piece of clear plastic around the top of the collar to keep it from moving.

View attachment 426794
(Don't mind the button placement, i've got new switches on the way that actually fit inside the collar)

View attachment 426797

Basically this means you can wear them with the straps open and they stay together :)

The entire uppers of the shoe are innacurate so trying to stiffen them up is pointless imo. Only the 2011 shoe is stiff as its a properly built shoe and for some reason Nike went with a super stiff upper half. The 1989 movie prop is completely floppy, but obviously much thicker at the top half than these v2, whereas these V2s are too thin and nothing can fix that other than making something completely from scratch. EG, Those triangular pull holes are impossible to fix whilst you know already about the annoying tongue which sticks to velcro!

If you are going for accuracy, might as well go the whole hog rather than a partly done job.
 
Its not very elegant but certainly does the job, basically added a piece of clear plastic around the top of the collar to keep it from moving.

Interesting. Is the plastic you added curved already? Where did you source it?

how big are we supposed to print these out?

You are supposed to ask a copy place to print them at A4. That resizes them to be about 16mm high which is slightly too large for these straps. 15mm would have been better. Half a mil top and bottom might not sound much, but it makes a huge difference.

The entire uppers of the shoe are innacurate so trying to stiffen them up is pointless imo. Only the 2011 shoe is stiff as its a properly built shoe and for some reason Nike went with a super stiff upper half. The 1989 movie prop is completely floppy, but obviously much thicker at the top half than these v2, whereas these V2s are too thin and nothing can fix that other than making something completely from scratch. EG, Those triangular pull holes are impossible to fix whilst you know already about the annoying tongue which sticks to velcro!

If you are going for accuracy, might as well go the whole hog rather than a partly done job.

Bring on your V3 airair :)

In the meantime, I think it is good to see new ideas being trialed and shown here for others to decide if they want to on their own shoes. No it may not be perfect, but as has been said many times, the V2 is not perfect anyway, so a positive IMO.

Speaking of unconventional modding, the heel mod I did to my shoes did 2 things, 1 totally un-expected -
1. The goal was to change the visual aspect of the back of the shoe by shortening the back of the mid-sole and give the look of a larger Heel Cup. All MP legacy shoes have a chunky look to them due to the height of the mid-sole. My mod has worked here and in time, I will mold and cast a new Heel Cup with larger letters.
2. The unexpected change the mod has made is that the upper now sits more upright than a pair not modded in this way.

You certainly see this when A/B comparing the shoes to an un-modded pair.

Airair noted that all shoes copied from the MP MAG sit forward almost like they are slumping, even when brand new out of the box and even though my pair is as floppy as a sock puppet, they now sit much more upright and you might have noticed that my usual PVC support inserts are not being used in the recent shot of the glowing soles. There is no need for them anymore.
 
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