Clear Casting Resin

bendyzaius

New Member
Hi there, Kinda new here so sorry if this has been discussed recently, but I was looking for advice on a good clear resin for casting. I've tried three different ones with no real success , Smooth-on TASK, Hyperlast Clear-cast, and this other clear embedding resin I found at the art store, what a disaster. I can cast white resin just fine so I don't think its me. Anyway, I was looking for a low-viscosity product that will not trap so many bubbles as I am not pressure casting and something that will not remain sticky, just trying to pour this little piece I made. Any help would be great.

Thanks. :D
 
I'm sorry to say this but you will have to use a pressure pot when casting clear resin.

Floral resin will work in a pinch (it simulates water in floral arrangements) but it is a really low quality product in the end.
 
If you use an open mould and the shape isn't too complex you can avoid bubbles in clear-cast resin.

lens1.jpg


Tackiness is an issue with both urethane and polyester resin. Leave them untouched (in the mould if you can) for a week and you should be OK.

Pressure pot is ideal, but if you can't stretch to one, time helps.
 
Hey thanks, this is what I was afraid of. I have avoided the tackiness problem by letting stuff sit a long time, but bubbles are a continuing problem. What do you guys mean by "pressure pot"? Is this something I can buy or make myself?
 
Important note. If you are using a clear urethane in a tin based mold IT WILL NOT CURE ON THE SURFACE. Most clear urethanes must be poured in a platinum based mold.

Smooth on makes a clear urethane that will cure in tin based molds.
Its called Crystal Clear.

Smooth on recomends pre heating the mold and then put it in an oven for a period of time after its been poured.demold time about 1 hour.
We used this stuff for some props for Night at the Museum and it worked really well. They do also sell a product that you add to the resin and it is supposed to help break up surface tension and get rid of air bubbles.


and if you can use a pressure pot it will help. A pressure pot is what painters use for spraying paint. They come in alot of different sizes. Basically you pour your resin, put it in the pressure pot, add air up to about 40 lbs and let it sit for the duration of the cure. The air pressure compresses the bubbles until they are too small to be seen. here is a link
http://www.artmolds.com/product_details.cf...o%20Accessories

minieffects
 
I get perfect tackless casts from Casting Craft. My secret? Warm the mold and after pouring place the mold in a warm (200 degree) oven. Turn off the oven leave for a few hours, turn back on the oven, demold, and put the demolded item in the oven for the evening.
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(juno @ Dec 5 2006, 07:00 PM) [snapback]1372422[/snapback]</div>
I get perfect tackless casts from Casting Craft. My secret? Warm the mold and after pouring place the mold in a warm (200 degree) oven. Turn off the oven leave for a few hours, turn back on the oven, demold, and put the demolded item in the oven for the evening. [/b]

Pretty much the same process smooth on recomended.

minieffects
 
Hi all

I know this thread is a bit old now, but I had to make some small detail bits for something I am making and they needed to be clear for the details behind to show through. Although these are really simple bits I made a very basic mould using similar methods to vac forming, but used a template to make the mould instead.

As you can see it is a simple shape, but I made the master first and stuck it to a bit of board, then cut a hole in another bit of board to fit over it. Then using a small square of clear plastic, (it was actually the packaging from a clock I bought, but works a treat.) I heated up in my oven till all soft and floppy, then placed it over the master and put the top bit of board on and pressed down. A few second later itÂ’s taken off to give a neat little mould. I then applied a wax spray and polished to stop the resin sticking, then filled it with clear polyester resin and let it set. ItÂ’s then just a case of popping it out the mould a day later.

clearmoulding.jpg


While this is a very simple shape anyone with a vac forming table could make far more detailed moulds quite easily.

I have always found however when using clear polyester resin, that if you mix it as per on the tin, which mine says 1-2 percent catalyst to resin you get bubbles, but I found mixing it up at 1ml of catalyst to 5 ml of resin (20%) it sets bubble free in all but the biggest clear moulds.

:) Don
 
DITTO to minieffects..

Smooth On Crystal Clear

Its AMAZING.

I also pressure cast...so that helps. But if you heat it with a heat gun once in the mold..most bubbles will come out.

THEN.. WHen its out of the mold...
HEAT IT with the heat Gun again..and be amazed at how clear it gets. NEVER TACKY either.

ALSO...

You dont need PLATINUM based molds. You can use it in TIN based RTV.
 
This thread is more than 17 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top