Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 Uber Build - COMPLETED!

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Today I've been working on finishing up 3PO... Now that the poly clay is dry and hard on his head I began to foil it. I really forgot how much I hate foiling. It's a pain in the royal tuckass. Next time I may just end up sending one of these out for a real vacuum metalization. That would save a whoooooooooollleeee lot of time and punishment! Anyway, here's the results:



After I finished, I was looking at a couple of photos online of 3PO and noticed something about his hands I had totally missed before. On the back of his hand plates are 3 little pistons that hang off over the end of the plate. At this scale they are really tiny so of course I had to fix that situation ASAP. I pulled out some sprue from the 3PO kit and proceeded to stretch out some thin filaments. Then I cut 6 equal length peices off and glued them hanging over the edges in place. Since i still had all my foiling stuff out, I foiled them as well. Looks so much better now... what do you think:




More to come soon.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Some time ago, I seen a set of images of the 1/48 Fine Molds TIE Fighter. The builder assembled this kit and depicted it as it was on an assembly line, in the state of manufacture. When he painted this, he sprayed it with silver paint, followed up with Tamiya Clear Blue on some of the parts. This dual painting technique really made the metallic blue stand out.

If you're not too far along with the build of Threepio, you could paint the entire model silver, then spray some Tamiya Clear Yellow X-24 (you could experiment with a touch of Tamiya Clear Orange X-26 - just a touch with the yellow)

If there is anyone that's reading this, could you be kind enough to post a link to the TIE Fighter build, if you have it.

Found it.

http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=106728

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Scratchy said:

If you're not too far along with the build of Threepio, you could paint the entire model silver, then spray some Tamiya Clear Yellow X-24 (you could experiment with a touch of Tamiya Clear Orange X-26 - just a touch with the yellow)

Click to expand...

Well as you can see from the pics above 3PO is pretty much finished. However, if I do him again, I'm probably going to have him professionally chromed in gold.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Sounds like you have done a lot of work to modify these kits! But for some reason the pics aren't loading on my computer. I'll have to check them out again when I get home. I have both of these kits and have intended on building them up when I have more space available, but I think I'm just going to sell them soon. If anybody is interested, please PM or just check the JY soon for my unbuilt kits.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Well after doing a little research and talking to some pros, I finally got a descision on which leg of C-3PO's is silver. There's been alot of debate on this subject, simply because its never the same throughout the entire saga. But, here's a good guide for anyone that want's to build 3PO more accurately for themselves.

Each movie was never consistant in this matter because in some scenes you see a silver leg in the other its all gold (look at ESB when he's getting his legs put back on by R2 in the Falcon both legs are gold, however, on Hoth in some scenes, he has a silver calf). In any event, it's always the right leg and you can spot the various versions of the "Silver Leg" in the follow manner:

• ANH - Right lower leg below knee joint silver, including foot.
• ESB - Right lower leg below joint with both feet gold
• ROTJ - Right lower leg silver with joint, both feet gold
• TPM - Not counted as most was wire and sub frame (duh)
• AOTC - Entire leg was rusted silver look all over
• ROTS - Complete leg entirely gold

With the above information I came up with this:



So... depending on which version you ae talking about and which movie and specific scene you're talking about will greatly determine the color of the leg itself. However, for this incarnation, I think I'm going to go with the ESB version.

So, with him completed... I figured I would take a few pics... now mind you, the base and the arms aren't glued on, and are only there to help him stand on his own at this time.



As you can see, his eyes do light up.



And of course I went with the silver leg... decided to go with the ESB version... I can't believe how difficult it is to show that it's actually silver when taking pics. I think i took 20-30 pics to show that his leg is silver and each time it appeared gold except for these two pics. The reflection of the gold from the other leg just makes it look gold, even thou its silver. Weird...



Hope you all enjoy this... more to come soon.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Today I spent on the fiber optic panels. I've finally come to a realization that after drilling hundreds of little holes with absolutely no satisfactory look to them, I decided to use just plain old card stock paper. Why you may ask? Well... the holes are tiny. Matter of fact, the rear logic panel measures 16mm wide x 5mm high, and the front panel (which is two different panels) measures 8mm wide x 11mm high. Now in that area, I created a template that I printed in black and white:


You can use it for your project as well... I had to figure this out by myself thru trial and error. That's the actual size I printed. And when I printed it I used the default setting of my printer at the best possible resolution I could get (at 72 dpi) at 100% scale without any special features turned on. I ended up printing it 4 times on 1 piece of card stock paper (That way if I messed up I had 3 more backups). Once I had it all printed up I took a needle and put it into one of my hobby knife handles and using a magnifying glass, I proceeded to poke the needle thru every single white dot methodically.




I would pause now and then to check my work to make sure they all lined up properly, and there were times I would mess up and have to go to the next printed area and try again.



Finally after several hours and many hand cramps later, I finally had all the holes necessary for the fibers. The "poked holes" method seemed to work pretty well because each fiber fit thru the hole perfectly. So now it's time to thread the fibers. I took a small votive candle and lit it and kept it over to the side of my workbench. Not for ambience, but for each fiber I need to mushroom the end. How you do that is you hold the end of the fiber close to the flame, but not so close as to catch it on fire. What happens is the end of the fiber will mushroom at the end. This will prevent the fiber from going all the way thru the hole when you pull it thru. But, as I mushroom each fiber I make sure it is not damaged. If you get the flame too close it will char the end the light won't pass thru it, and if that happens you just cut it off and mushroom the end again and check once more. Once you know its clear, you can thread the fiber into the hole. This was almost as difficult as drilling holes!



So a couple hours later and lots of eye strain and hand cramps, I finally got all the fibers in place on the front logic panels. I flipped it over and used some Elmers Glue to hold the fibers in place. You don't want to use any other type of glue because it will damage the fibers themselves. Elmers works extremely well for holding and gluing the fibers in place.




Now you know I couldn't just end this chapter without testing out the lights. So here's what it looks like and I gotta say, it looks absolutely fantastic!



Now I just gotta thread the rear panels and I'll be ready to cut these out and glue them in the dome! Hope you all enjoy. Lemme know what you think so far.

SIDE NOTE: I think this card stock paper will be awesome for a diffuser for the front and rear mood lights as well.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Have you seen the Tamashii 12PM C3PO? good for reference...Star Wars version
12"PM - 12 Perfect Model -

J

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Jaitea said:

Have you seen the Tamashii 12PM C3PO? good for reference...Star Wars version
12"PM - 12 Perfect Model -

J

Click to expand...

That looks fantastic... that is an awesome figure!

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Spent the day today doing tests and mixing paints. My collection of paints has gotten pretty old (about 15-20 years... but amazingly they are still good). I mixed up some Gloss Dark Blue, Gloss White and a little touch of Silver to give it a little bit of a sprakle. I've decided to paint the panels on the dome this color because the blue clear plastic of the dome panels just don't look right at all and I need a color that I can use over the rest of the body that will match that color. The biggest problem with gloss paints (I hate working with them) is the fact that they take forever to dry and the slightest touch while its still uncured becomes forever immortalized in the finish. So, it will have to take a good day to fully cure before I attempt to even try doing anything else. I did however get a small video made of the rear logic panel lit. Its not as in focus as it should be... when I get the entire dome finished, I'll do a more proper video and try to get it in focus. The blubs I used are from a toy ball that you can change the color on by pressing a button... for each time you press it you get a different color. It's got 3 LEDs on it, Red/Green/Blue and once you cycle thru all the colors, it will begin to fade slowly from one color to the next. You can see what I filmed here:

R2-D2 Rear Logic Panel Light Test

But basically I drilled a couple of holes for the front and rear mood lights. I used a 3/8 inch drill bit that seems to be the proper dimension for this. I'm also going to drill out the front projector under the eye box and put a white led in there steady on. I also toyed with a couple of ideas for the front arms. Not sure how I'm going to do those yet. I think I'm gonna have to cut those parts out of the body and then fabricate the arms individually (not sure if I should make them moveable or not, probably not).

Still trying ot work out how I'm going to affix him to the base. I know I'm gonna have to run a wire down thru his body, but I also know that he is on rollers. Not sure how I'm gonna do it yet, but I'm sure I'll come up with something. More to come tomorrow... hope you all enjoy so far.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

PAINTING DAY! Yeahhhhhhhhh... today I spent most of the day painting details. I'll robably end up spending more time doing this because you have to get the details right or they just don't look good.




Have I mentioned before I hate painting with gloss paints? Well... add to that, painting with gloss paints on chrome! Talk about a nightmare. You can't see what you're painting to get a good reference of what you have and haven't painted! Major pain in the butt.



I'm still trying to decide on whether or not i'm gonna paint the main dome silver. The bit of sanding I did on it don't quite work and I can't sand anymore to get that slightly dullish aluminuim look. I may have to see if I can get some Alclad and paint it with that. What to you all think?

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

LrdSatyr8 said:

Have I mentioned before I hate painting with gloss paints? Well... add to that, painting with gloss paints on chrome! Talk about a nightmare. You can't see what you're painting to get a good reference of what you have and haven't painted! Major pain in the butt.

Click to expand...

If you take a good look at R2-D2, he really doesn't have any chrome parts on him. Some polished metal surfaces, maybe, but nothing that really has that mirror-like reflective property that chrome has; even his dome is only semi-reflective.

When I finally get around to building mine I'm planning to strip all of the chrome plated parts and repaint them with silver paint where required, then hit the entire model with Dullcote after I've weathered it to my satisfaction. I don't like glossy surfaces and/or bright chrome on kits of this type and scale because in my opinion it makes them look too toy-like. But it's your kit, build it however you think is best.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Zombie_61 said:

If you take a good look at R2-D2, he really doesn't have any chrome parts on him. Some polished metal surfaces, maybe, but nothing that really has that mirror-like reflective property that chrome has; even his dome is only semi-reflective.

When I finally get around to building mine I'm planning to strip all of the chrome plated parts and repaint them with silver paint where required, then hit the entire model with Dullcote after I've weathered it to my satisfaction. I don't like glossy surfaces and/or bright chrome on kits of this type and scale because in my opinion it makes them look too toy-like. But it's your kit, build it however you think is best.

Click to expand...

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. I don't like all this chrome... just doesn't seem realistic enough. I'll probably end up painting over it and all the rest of the chrome.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Some new notes to add to this build I may have to work on:

- I just realized that the rear logic panels are red/yellow and not blue/white like the front
- The side leg joints aren't right... I may have to fabricate something... not sure yet.
- Wondering if I should do the support strut that is last minute screwed at the bottom of the main body down to the back leg battery boxes as was depicted in the ANH... I don't think anyone has ever done that before in this model.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Today I did alot of cutting. I got the front arm sections cut out and as I was getting ready to do the marking for the side panels, I discovered that the body is warped. I'll probably end up having to soak the part in boiling water for a little while and in order to keep its shape I'll make sure it's formed properly and then dunk it in cold water to set it. Will do a test on this with the spare body tomorrow.



Anyway, I decided to go ahead and begin work on the arms. I cut two pieces of thick styrene and marked them for cutting.



After doing so I realized I couldn't quite get the depth I was looking for so I cut another piece of styrene and glued two pieces of the arm to it, and viola... a perfect arm.




Ok... so it's not totally perfect yet, but it will be after a little tooling. Didn't turn out too bad... more tomorrow.

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Changed my mind on the arms... didn't like the way the styrene turned out. So, I decided to get out my Magic Sculpt and it looks a whole lot better now... will look perfect once it dries and I get some paint on it. Smooth as silk! Love this stuff!

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

Boy these arms really turned out looking great after being painted.



You can always tell the MPC model kit from a distance by the inaccurate arm sections. The middle is always elongated, and there are no indentions where there should be. Now you won't be able to tell the difference between this model and the real thing... hehehehehehe!
I got my electronic components today. Those toy circuit boards just weren't going to cut it so I started playing around with them. I drilled out the hole in the front main holoprojector eye and inserted a bright white led and tested it...



Boy this thing is bright... should brighten up even the darkest of rooms! LOL



Going to work on some test circuits and when I get a good slow flashing working I will take a video and let everyone see... wish me luck!

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

LrdSatyr8 said:

PAINTING DAY! Yeahhhhhhhhh... today I spent most of the day painting details. I'll robably end up spending more time doing this because you have to get the details right or they just don't look good.

Have I mentioned before I hate painting with gloss paints? Well... add to that, painting with gloss paints on chrome! Talk about a nightmare. You can't see what you're painting to get a good reference of what you have and haven't painted! Major pain in the butt.

I'm still trying to decide on whether or not i'm gonna paint the main dome silver. The bit of sanding I did on it don't quite work and I can't sand anymore to get that slightly dullish aluminuim look. I may have to see if I can get some Alclad and paint it with that. What to you all think?

Click to expand...

I think you must sand the dome because you need to remove those awful raised lips all around the panel apertures which are not accurate ! You should try some rub'n buff for all your "aluminium" parts, it'll be way better than the chromed parts. Nice work btw !

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 build

MonsieurTox said:

I think you must sand the dome because you need to remove those awful raised lips all around the panel apertures which are not accurate ! You should try some rub'n buff for all your "aluminium" parts, it'll be way better than the chromed parts. Nice work btw !

Click to expand...

Yeah that's basically what Alclad is... rub'n buff... I think Testors also has a Metalizer type paint that is the exact same stuff. Its hard to come by where I'm at thou, so I have to make do with what I got, unless someone wants to donate to the project! :rolleyes

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Well actually rub'n buff is not paint but wax, it takes some times to fully cure (several days) but you can handle the part right after having applied the stuff without doing any damage to the finish (you will have some rub'n buff on your fingers though ). It is tougher than Alclad II once cured.
I used it on my 1:1 dome (scroll down) : http://www.therpf.com/f9/1-1-r2-t0-r2-g2-astromech-109427/index3.html#post2600441

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Very nice effect, but I'm not sure it would scale down to this project thou. Love the work you've done with your 1:1 scale R2... wish I had the resources to build one myself.