Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

From what I am seeing from my wear pair, unless you are walking over stuff with oil like bitumen or concrete car parks, these soles should last a fair while. It is just a shame that the rubber is yellow.

So I picked up a bottle of clear nail polish today and have applied it to the bubbles.
Before
20b46664629a87cba4f7bf9eb350d35a.jpg


After
69f17cee58eaebbb1cc588810cc355c9.jpg


Light test
d78039a464d9c5904561679bd328c709.jpg


I also have a pack of blue dye, however mine is not the darker blue some of you have used. I am hoping to simply get the yellow out without the soles turning blue. I am hoping they just go icy.

Probably won't do that until tomorrow now.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
That looks a little rough. One of mine kinda did that so I lightly sandded it off with an emery board and reapplied. Went on smooth the second time.

What are you using as the binder for your dye?
 
Last edited:
That looks a little rough. One of mine kinda did that so I lightly sandded it off with an emery board and reapplied. Went on smooth the second time.

What are you using as the binder for your dye?

Yeah mine seem a little rough too. Well they seem ok without the lights on
34dc24bbb6a5893733a12dc0d43e6b1e.jpg


I may try sanding them down and reapply, see if it takes smoother


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That looks a little rough. One of mine kinda did that so I lightly sandded it off with an emery board and reapplied. Went on smooth the second time.

What are you using as the binder for your dye?

Mine? Yeah it will need a 2nd coat and a light sand. Wet and Dry at 800 grit will take a bit more effort, but will come up really nice.

I think the issue was with how damn hot it has been here the last few days. This stuff was supposed to be 5mn and was drying on the brush. Gonna be 36C today again.

Not sure about the binder. It only mentions using salt on the pack, but that is for dying cloth.
 
Looking at the RD pics made me like the frosted look again, bottom is a pic of the RD.

I think the issue is that the factory frost is too course. Coating the part in clear will fill in those scratches making it too clear, so sanding the part is still required. But you want to use fine paper (like 800 grit) so you don't just go back to the factory look.
 
Ok redid the bubbles. Before I reapplied the nail polish, I gave the bubbles a light sand with 800grit wet and dry. You don't need a lot of water, just dip the paper.

Then on to the dye.

As I said, mine is not the same RIT dye and I have mixed mine into container that holds about half a litre. It looks navy blue but once painted on is considerably lighter.

Shoe on the left has been treated, the shoe on the right has not.
c07fbcfe2d0ce7e1eb488e7168f8207c.jpg

3aeb69c9c093ce9437a5dccdf963dd5c.jpg


I also shot a quick video on how I have done this and will post it soon.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
Can you give us specifics of what has been done? Do you plan on addressing the dim EL?

-Looks like the EL panel is the same other then the tape being removed?
-LED bubbles look dimmed
IMG_8909.JPGIMG_8912.JPG
hi , the light is not dim . bcz the lighting . it looks dim . you can check another pics we took in the door .

- - - Updated - - -

David, How does this stop the two sections from failing? The weak point appears to the centre between the two domes.

check more pics here . IMG_8909.JPGIMG_8912.JPG

- - - Updated - - -

More pics of the light . The indoor pics . IMG_8909.JPGIMG_8912.JPG
 
This thread is more than 3 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top