STARGATE: Horus / Anubis Masks

BrundelFly

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
No secret I'm a Stargate Movie nut.

Here is a project that I have been sitting on for a couple of years.

As with the RA Pendent, I have always wanted was the mask, of either HORUS or ANUBIS. For those of you who don't know, it's the same masks. Only the Top Part, paint scheme and the earrings" are different for each character.

There have been some really AMAZING attempts at reproducing this thing, each one unique and impressive. However, there is nothing like having the real thing. Well, production castings of it anyway!

Over the years, I have been lucky to acquire different parts of the costume. A good friend of mine who worked on the film, had castings from production of the mask, gun, and a few other items.

He was nice enough to loan what he didnt sell to me, so we could complete the mask for each of us.

I bought a damaged mask section from PROP WORX, which was one of the sections I was missing. It will take some work, but its definitely salvageable. Still, we needed the face plate of the mask. So close, and yet so far.

Then, I was asked if I could help repair one of the movie hero masks. Nothing extensive, but I happily jumped at the chance. I was given permission by the owner, and eventually new owner of the mask to mold what I needed.

Which were these parts:



backshell.jpg


and the center section shown below.

I was amazed at the condition the mask was in after all these years.
It needed little work. I repaired the left broken ear hanging, and re-glued down some of the plating, and beefed up the puny support the mask now resides on. I also did some trouble shooting, to figure out what the wiring went to on the inside, as this particular mask still has all the Servos and electronics inside of it.

This is how the mask looked when I got it, no big change, its just missing the left earring.

horust.jpg


Now for my stuff. The lower section I had, did not have an interior, so I did a quick brush up, made a casting attached it to the section I had.

Here is a shot in progress:

backinwork.jpg


and how it looks now:

interiorcurrent.jpg


I should have taken pics of how damaged it was, here you see the individual snap molds I made off the real mask, to repair the production casting I had. Because it had been kicked around a garage since 1994, you can imagine the shape it was in.

I took SILPAKs Fast SetPutty, and would mold the spot from the real one that was damaged on the casting. I filled the mold with bondo/ fiberglassing resin and STAMPED the detail back in. Overall, I was happy with the results.

moldparts.jpg


Here is the back now. I still have some work to do on it.

partsr.jpg



Here is most of the parts, I have smaller detail stuff and molds in a box someplace.
The two heads, one is a FIBERGLASS test, in really bad shape. The other is a foam stunt head.
I did not mold the Original, because it's plated metal. I was afraid that the PAINT would come off, so I only molded the face section, and did so VERY carefully wearing DEPENDS the whole time I was doing so.

;-)

Luckily, the large inside section was just painted fiberglass and had not been plated.
It molded with no problems.
partsr.jpg


I will keep posting picture, but the intent is to restore the movie mask, and restore the production castings for the current owner. For payment, I get to create a mask ready for plating so I can own my very own HORUS. I plan making a complete ANUBIS one of these days also, as I have most of the costume parts for him already. It's slow going as I work on him while I wait for spaceship castings to cook in the autoclave. Not intending to sell parts, kits or castings. Just too difficult and really not worth the effort, and I'm doing a restoration more than anything else.


Here is HORUS the day he left with his repaired ear.

horusgarage.jpg


Thanks for taking a peek.
Stay tuned!

Frank
Brundelfly
 
Last edited:
Re: STARGATE: Operation Horus

Awesome thread! I love these helmets, they are very beautiful and you did an amazing restoration. I will stay tuned.
 
Thanks Guys!

Some interesting things about the Masks.
Horus had Servos that operated mechanical IRIS for the pupils.
I dont think they worked that great, as there is ONE scene in the movie where they "show it off" and you can barely tell they are even lit.
I think the eye lenses were dyed too red and the light just didn't show through very well.

They used actual glass lenses for the eyes then painted them with clear red.

Speaking of color.

The entire mask is plated chrome with a couple of exceptions. A copper "base" is painted on the mask with gold and in some spots bronze "mist" or over spray.

There is a dark grey wash over the metalics, then looks like it was lightly worked off.
Some "splatter" marks, either done by a airbrush or tooth brush (tooth brush is the BEST thing to use for Splatter )
The Patina was done in two layers, the darker shade dry brushed on, then the light shade done as a wash over the top. Probably a crystal clear in between those two layers to seal the previous.

Some areas are worked more than others. Some have no splatter, some extensive. The center back of HORUS is really one of the few spots you see the chrome. It looks like the hit it with a transparent blue, then weathered with the gray wash/splatter.

This shot shows the back and the difference in the Chromed and painted sections.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here is a ear cup, I experimented on. it didnt have the splatter, but it matched the real one extremely close.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Much of the armor is painted the same way. Interestingly, the ANUBIS Gauntlets I have are painted the same way, but they are plated in real copper as a base.

Base coat of Copper. Mist it with Gold. Then

from the RPF Post:

Colors used:
1 part Tamiya Field Gray with
7 Parts flat black
2 parts water

Paint it on...rub it off. Go in Small steps.
Clear Coat to seal after drying.

Then...Patina

Field Gray
Light Green
Verde Jade (gaming color 72026) (Non Tamiya, all others are Tamiya)
Light Blue
Flat white

Paint it on...rub it off. Go in Small steps.
Clear Coat to seal after drying.

Lighter version of above patina as a wash,
Paint it on...rub it off. Go in Small steps.
Clear Coat to seal after drying.

Then dry brush a some green on the edges.


Honestly, Im not really sure Ill Plate mine. I think the same chrome section look can be achieved with a good chrome paint. Not to mention, the plating can separate over time.

Hope this helps for anyone needing painting advice.
 
Last edited:
You always get to play with the good stuff Frank. Just out of curiosity, did you take any shots of how the real mask sections were held together? I've always wondered if there was a metal bar spanning the joints up the back or if it was just all anchored together in the front cheek area of the mask.
 
Im lucky and very grateful to some special folks.

I took many shots.
;-)

To answer your question, It's all anchored to the front with some unique L Bars that are attached to the sections with brackets fiber-glassed into the shells.
There is a common meeting assembly that is bolted to the custom lazy susan that resides in the chest "shroud" Rather ingenious how they did it.

Here is a shot of one side:



and the section removed:



Yes I was crazy enough to take it apart. Most of my pics are detailed, as I needed reference on HOW to put it back together. In doing so I discovered that whoever put the mask back before I got it, actually goofed and assembled it wrong. It was crooked, I didn't believe it at first, but I checked my reference, and sure enough, it was crooked before I took it apart. So I took it back apart, and assembled it with the corrected L Bar placement and it straightened it out.

The BACK of the mask, has bungie cord to keep the parts from separating too far.
Then there is black cloth glued to each section to provide connectivity between the sections and also act as an attaching point.

Not to be critical of fan attempts as they are each very impressive.
However, one of my pet peeves is that the mask is usually made as ONE large Solid thing, and it is not. It is actually broken down into individual sections. There was a version of the movie mask that was one piece. Still, I like it
as individual sections.
Those fans were motivated enough to sculpt it, which is a HUGE and impressive undertaking and each version got really close. Im just lazy and rather mold what already existed on screen provided Im lucky enough to get my hands on it. ;-)

Frank
 
Last edited:
Wow, thanks for sharing the pic's on how they attached it all Frank. The more that keeps poping up about the original props from the movie, it seems the original prop crew never liked to take the easy route.... With that setup it looks like they may have actually given some up/down range of movement for the actors to see out the peep slits in the mask.
 
Wow...just wow! I always look forward to seeing one of your posts Frank.

I really can't wait to see how your build progresses with your level of attention to detail and thanks for sharing all the pics and info!
 
Unbelievable! Love those characters...always wanted those masks, but man are they expensive. Congrats looks fantastic and please show some more.

mike
 
Wow, that's totally Wicked!

truly a skilled master in the art. i cant wait to see more..mostly how the Anubis one comes out if you make it.
 
Wow, that's totally Wicked!

truly a skilled master in the art. i cant wait to see more..mostly how the Anubis one comes out if you make it.

Thanks!
Im just a Bondo-Hack who loves this movie.

THis thing has driven me nuts. I have a foam one, that is perfect, but it is painted, and I was worried silicone would pull the paint off. So Im trying to repair this fiberglass one that Looked like it had been shot with a SHOTGUN when I got it. Kicked around a garage since 1993. Go figure. Every WHITE spec is epoxy putty. THe gray is primer.

horuswork.jpg
 
Whuh...?! How did I miss this thread?! I've been WAITING for this thread only since forever!!!! :facepalm

Spectacular!!!
 
This thread is more than 9 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top