Game of Thrones Kings Guard Armor

teranmx

Member
This was the last armor commission I did. I made it last summer after the first season of Game of Thrones. My friend Nick only wanted the chest/back, shoulders and scales. At the time I'd never done scales before. I undersold myself on time and ability to make them. So I have to come up with another technique for making them or just order them from the ring lord and assemble them to it. Of course they will not look the same then. These are a particular design the show had made. But any who... I was happy to have made this. I liked it so much I didn't want to give to him, but a deal is a deal.=) I would like to make it again at some point. I usually try on my commissions if I can fit in them(i have the coat on wearing it.) Makes me feel good about my work. Nick is wearing the armor in a white shirt. He wore it to Dragoncon last year. I will more then like post more previous work... in my album maybe or on here. I just don't want to spam this page with all of my work.=)
Oh and I made this out of pvc plastic sheeting.
 
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Here are some process pics I took when building it. I carved all of the patterns with my dremel. I used pvc glue to fuse it together. I used Bondo to fill gaps. I did add a few rivets for attaching tough areas and for comparison to other rivet marks. I do know from some more recent photos there are more details on the chest that I missed. I would like to fix that on the next one I make. On the shoulder pauldrons I took a bowl and vacuum formed the pvc over it, cut it mid way and then attached the two pieces together with the other part of the bowl pointing outward. I fused it with pvc glue, extra support with rivets, to fill big gaps i used window screen as a fiber for the bondo to hold onto extra along with the pvc. It allowed me to get those corners sharp since there was like a 1 inch gap in between the top and bottom. If I could've afforded it I would gone the next step further and made molds of all of this and cast them in another material so they would be solid.













 
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I do it via commission. So if someone wants one they just contact me. Since I didn't do a mold of it...i get measurements and adjust my patterns. It takes me about 2-3 months minimum to do chest/back, shoulder, vambracers and greaves. Scales take at least a month longer, so I find it easier just to recommend people to contact the Ringlord website and order the scales there and either assemble that part themselves or ship to me and I assemble for a fee. I am waiting to get a more efficient method before doing scales again. Also shipping isn't determined until completion of the armor. Found out the hard way UPS has specific requirements otherwise they will not reimburse you if they damage it.
If interested just private message me or rmichaelchrisco@gmail.com. you can see my other stuff at deviant art http://teranmx.deviantart.com or Facebook.
 
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Awesome armor crafting, always thought the kings guard had impressive functional armor. Plus I am a fan of scale mail armor so the combination of plate and scale is a plus.
 
Very nice work! I've been toying with the idea of trying some Red Guard Armor myself.

What type of PVC material did you start with? (How thick, where did you source it and how do you finish the armor off after applying/carving the bondo?)

Thanks,
Calvin
 
Very nice! One suggestion if I might, for any future builds you might want to consider using thicker/more paint in the white parts as well as applying it with an airbrush to help cover the brush strokes. Also, if you didn't already, I'd also use gloss white paint since in real life the whit parts would probably have been enameled. Still, beautiful work and I thought that you might have actually used metal at first.

For your next project you should seriously consider some other Game of Thrones armor like some of the Lannister armors.
 
Thanks guys. I try hard. Riceball I will consider the airbrush next time. I have one, but use it mostly on latex stuff. Generally I like to dirty up any armor I make. Nick wanted it only slightly dirtied. I was hesitant on dirtying the white areas. I will need to practice with it more. I am considering other armors. I have one friend who keeps joking about me making him the Hound armor.
@68HC11 I normally use Sintra. It is a pvc sign plastic. You can use just pvc sign plastic, but I use Sintra specifically because it is a little denser then the other and usually only $10 more. I generally get it from Piedmont Plastics. They are an east coast plastics company. Ge plastics also sales it. You should be able to find it any sign shop. Shipping is expensive. If you are on the west coast try ridout plastics( PLEXIGLASS sheets, Acrylic sheet, UHMW, Lexan polycarbonate, Fiberglass sheets, Plastic Sheet & Plexiglass Fabrication, Weld-On Plexiglas® Glue, PTFE ). Anyone of them should give you a quote. Piedmont does it by email. I've worked with 3mm and 6mm plastics for armor. ON this because I wanted to be able to have better mold ability without carving first i did 3mm since I would have to layer it anyway for the front sections of the armor. I fused the pieces together with pvc glue you can get at any home building supply store in electrical or plumbing. It's use for pvc pipe sealing. They have 3 grades, each according to PSI of water going through the pipe. You can use the regular and medium and they work just as well. The high grade is really thick.. I have used it.. but only on a prop due to layering. I otherwise generally just don't use it. I also rivet them in a couple spots too to help keep pressure on and add a little detail. The hot glue spots for my fake riveting were a little too big, but I am still playing with that.
The only reason I added bond to the image on the chest was to make it a smoother transition for an etching look. Basically bevel the edge. On the shoulders I used also to cover over where I sealed the plastic pieces together and bevel it. I would like to attempt to vacuum form the whole piece. I just have to calibrate my vacuum former for a larger size. Just can't do that right now.
Generally I sand it so that it accepts paint more readily. It has a kind of skin on it and you want to sand it just lightly off so it exposes the pores. You can also spray automotive primer on it first and sand it before applying other paint. Auto primer has some metallic material in it, because the smoother you sand it the shinier it gets which helps add a metallic look to it. I use that especially on wooden props swords to make them metallic.
Then I just either find the spray paint that is close to my color or mix spray paint layers. I used an antique brazz from Valspar.. they might have a bronze now.. but I find i can make a better bronze by adjust the brass. Be sure if you do battle damage scuffs and marks do before you paint the color on. Some spray paints have a hammered texture chemical in them and that helps to give items a hammered look. For that look.. look at my Hawke armor on my profile page. you see a difference. The hammered creates pits in the paint. If I can't find a color in hammered sometimes i will either take a file or another object with small head and tap into the plastic hammered texture(my 300 armor and princess leia outfit are hand textured not posted yet, but on my website) or run my band sander for scuffs across it.(that takes some play)
I also have a few weapons I will beat my armor with.=) Then depending on the weathering look I want to give will pick a color in this case black and hand rub in black acrylic, watch it dry for a like a minute and then wipe some of it off. I will do it a section at a time, so I can determine how much weathering I want to do. I like my metals not 100% dull, but not glossy shiny. I like the worn look. So I generally use a semi-gloss spray enamel.
I have also been know if their are layers to the paint and you see the scuff chipped through the layers, i will spray partial in layers, chip it a way with an x-acto knife point and/or hand paint the other layer.(boba fett on my website. not up here yet)
If you wonder how i get some of the shaping, I do have an old, crappy youtube video series showing me work with the sintra. Making Armor 1 - YouTube
I've been experimenting as always as well. I use oven for large sections and heat gun for edges. Always mold from center out. You can vacuum form sintra like I did.. but only on simple stuff. It will sometimes ripple in the oven. Vaccuum forming is still best done with styrene or abs plastics. They are made for that. Hope this answers some questions.=)
 
This is freaking amazing, ever since buying the first season I've wanted to see armor popping up. I'm even considering looking to commission a set of Nights Watch armor. This whet my appetite for more game of thrones armor.
 
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