environmentally friendly / eco friendly resin/fiberglass?

Chaotic Descent

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I searched and couldn't find anything.
I'm also disappointed that there's no general forum for materials/methods that are general, since resin and fiberglass probably aren't just limited to costumes.
On 405th all I found was a thread with one mention of "aqua resin".

I'm wondering if there are environmentally friendly / eco friendly resin/fiberglass.
I've heard that resin is not sufficient to reinforce cosplay armor, which is what the fiberglass is for. Are there eco-friendly resins/[something else] that are as good as fiberglass, or eco-friendly fiberglass?

Despite all the reading I've done, both recently and over the years, I didn't understand what fiberglass was. I'd seen a video where someone was applying fiberglass cloth patches to the inside of his papercraft armor. I'm guessing it always comes like that?
While wikipedia says:
The National Toxicology Program classifies inhalable glass wool fibers as "[r]easonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen."
I thought the real problem was the resin that it's glued on with, but perhaps I'm mistaken. Usually it's the hardeners and plasticizers that are the culprits here, and I don't know that the resins meant for fiberglass have those, do they? Wikipedia again:
While the resins are cured, styrene vapors are released. These are irritating to mucous membranes and respiratory tract.
Perhaps an environmentally friendly resin would solve this problem as long as the resin weren't too brittle?
 
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Firstly, thinking 'Fibreglass' is dangerous, and 'Resin' is not enough to reinforce a costume - JUST STOP THERE.

Fibreglass, is sheet material which is used with resin to make a solid.

The fibreglass sheet / matting on its own is fairly safe to be around (provided the matting is intact and not flaky(Depends on the type of sheet you have).

THE RESIN is the most dangerous part - It emits gasses which are carcinogenic. Gas is much harder to block out with a respirator than fibreglass mat particles. Whether it be polyester, epoxy, etc. It has the potential to cause cancer and other health problems. YOU ALWAYS MUST use a respirator with nearly any type of resin (And I dont want to hear other people say 'once is ok without' - JUST FRAKKING USE IT. ITS NOT HARD).

Also do not over catalyze the resin. IT can catch fire / explode as shards into your skin. It does not sound pleasant at all.

In terms of 'safe' resins to use, there are aqua resin systems which claim to be non-carcinogenic, but at the price of overall strength loss to your project.

Realistically -
1. buy a GOOD respirator (I have seen people with shirts around their face. DO NOT DO THAT, THAT IS STUPID).
2. PLAN your entire project (Losely plan your build ahead of time, so you can aim to glass at one time. When I used to PEP, I would build every piece of armor first out of paper, then do the glassing in 1- 2 days on a weekend. This restricts the amount of time spent around the resin, and since its been planned, you can have a table away from the house etc. that everything can cure on.
3. Sanding fibreglass - Once again, a good respirator + wear disposable overalls, and shower after you've disposed of the overalls.


The biggest problem around using fibreglass is the perception of how DANGEROUS IT IS.
_FIBREGLASS IS NOT DANGEROUS. PEOPLE WHO DONT FOLLOW LOGICAL SAFETY PRACTICES ARE THE DANGEROUS INGREDIENT. Every product has a MSDS sheet - Read it, if it says "can cause skin burns", use appropriate gloves, if it says "possible carcinogen" Use a respirator JUST IN CASE.

Your health is not a frakking test dummy for a chemical company. You are not getting paid or compensated in anyway for acquiring cancer or other health problem.

BTW , this isnt a rant at you CD (Not in any way ;) ), just a rant in general against stupidity with potential harmful chemicals.
 
I have been wanting to ask these questions/ideas:
1. Fiberglass particles eventually IS dangerous when inhaled or punch under the skin.
2. So I am thinking about fiberglass replacement. I did non-woven cloth but it didn't soak the resin much ( I guess I have to use thinner ones and more layers. It has some flexiblity too (only 2 layers)
3. Alternatives material: newspaper, mosquito mesh, mesh cloth. But I haven't tried it yet. The logic behind these: resin need some structure to strenghten the bond, just like concrete need iron bars. Mosquito mesh is strong but cloth perhaps is easier to work with. Paper? well, we do paper mache which is pulp+water and then let the water dries out. So why not add resin? The result might be thicker layers compare to fiberglass

If anyone want to try these, please share the result.

As for the resin, we'll have to live with it for now (I guess).
I worked with a company that sells flexible resin (2 mix parts). It is tough yet very flexible (like thick rubber). But the price is way to high.
 
For my own, I use sikafill. It is basicaly used for sealing roofs or stone decks. Avaible in white, black, brick red or transparent. It's glossy (a plus for painting rendering), UVproof, waterproof, elastic, dry in half an hour, and not expensive at all. Something like 3$ for a suit. Except that it is sold by ten pounds buckets... you can coat a score of full suits with such a quantity.

My tip is to harden the inside of the armor too, but with some coats of Fortix. It's quite the same thing than Sikafill, with same properties, for quite the same price, but it's a bit harder and less glossy.

Coated outside and inside, your foam sounds "poc-poc-poc" when you knock on it. It remains flexible enough not to break, but hard enough not to bend.
 
Bonjour JFCustom,

Thank you for sharing.
As for Sikafil, I am planning to buy and use it for my leaky roof first, and use the rest to trial.
I tried to search Fortix but didn't find what I am looking for.
Do you have link or picture? I want to find similar ones.

Thank you.

PS: ready for Mk8? I am trying to refolding it now.
 
Pardon my French,:cry
Is Fortix some kind of asphalt-based coating? I think I saw that kind in the store. The finished surface will be more sandy (like rough sandpaper)
I saw translation for grouting?

Merci
 
JF,
Can you shed some light here?Translate it please, at least I know where to look for similar product. Fortix definately not available in my area.
 
INCLINED ROOF COATING FORTIX
Create a waterproof coating on roofs and facades. Repairs tiles and gutters. Seals jointers and cracks. Avaible in white or terracotta or transparent.

FLEXIBLE COATING SIKAFILL
Seals roof - tile - fireplace - facade. Liquid semi-elastic acrylic coating. Black or red. High resistance to UV and weather.

Both are recomended to be applied in two passes with a twenty minutes interval, and first coat can be diluted from 5 to 10% of water for an easyer covering.

Chemical compositions are not specified...
 
Thnak you JF,
No problem with Sikafill, but will search on something like Fortix.

This will save time a lot, no PVA, no resin, no fiber.
 
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