Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 1963-present keys)
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Straker
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
A Locksmith will be my plan B from outer space. I'll try True Value first and see if they just have never cut a steel key before. XD Failing that I will find a smith that can cut steel.
A Locksmith will be my plan B from outer space. I'll try True Value first and see if they just have never cut a steel key before. XD Failing that I will find a smith that can cut steel.
SirJediKnightTim
Well-Known Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
AMAZING find!!!! I have searched for a key from "Blink" for a long time. I think you really nailed it Straker. I ordered a few of them from your link. I can't wait to get it. I hope I get the same one that you did because I'm not sure your link is the same key your ordered now, it says the key is nickle over brass.
Well we try to be. XD
Anyhow, keys just arrived today. Here's one quick and dirty comparison.
I think we found the key we're looking for guys. This is the CI-DL key made by JMA. I'll be getting one of this and the 1A key cut to look at the cross section. If it looks good I'll try sanding one. I'm really hoping that they started using JMA keys for all their Tardis needs. That would make things so much easier.
AMAZING find!!!! I have searched for a key from "Blink" for a long time. I think you really nailed it Straker. I ordered a few of them from your link. I can't wait to get it. I hope I get the same one that you did because I'm not sure your link is the same key your ordered now, it says the key is nickle over brass.
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Straker
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
You may have wanted to double check my posts. XD The one you want is the CI-DL JMA key. The link I posted to was just for the picture. I wasn't sure they were selling the actual JMA key as they list several equivalents so I didn't order from them. The one they listed was for the YA-41D which will have a second bumper on it. Regardless I was assured that the JMA keys are all steel by a man that cuts nothing but JMA keys so we should be fine.
You may have wanted to double check my posts. XD The one you want is the CI-DL JMA key. The link I posted to was just for the picture. I wasn't sure they were selling the actual JMA key as they list several equivalents so I didn't order from them. The one they listed was for the YA-41D which will have a second bumper on it. Regardless I was assured that the JMA keys are all steel by a man that cuts nothing but JMA keys so we should be fine.
SirJediKnightTim
Well-Known Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
Great, sounds like I ordered the wrong key.
Great, sounds like I ordered the wrong key.
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Straker
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
It's not the worse thing ever though. That would still make a great Tardis key and worse comes to worse you could remove the extra bumper. But yeah, that was my initial post about the JMA. A few posts later I mentioned the two types I ordered. Sorry about the confusion though.
On a different note, the folks at True Value were able to cut my keys just fine. I had two of each cut and bought a few different sandpapers to try out. I'll post a shot of my results when I'm done.
It's not the worse thing ever though. That would still make a great Tardis key and worse comes to worse you could remove the extra bumper. But yeah, that was my initial post about the JMA. A few posts later I mentioned the two types I ordered. Sorry about the confusion though.
On a different note, the folks at True Value were able to cut my keys just fine. I had two of each cut and bought a few different sandpapers to try out. I'll post a shot of my results when I'm done.
SirJediKnightTim
Well-Known Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
They let me cancel my order, which is great! And I ordered this one from them instead 9CS CISA JMA KEY BLANK It does say it's the equivalent of the CI-DL.
They let me cancel my order, which is great! And I ordered this one from them instead 9CS CISA JMA KEY BLANK It does say it's the equivalent of the CI-DL.
Straker
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
Well that's good then. Hope they send actual JMA branded keys and not just the equivalent to it.
On another note...sanding these keys suuuuuucks! These things are tough keys, no question. I sanded at one with 220 grit paper on a metal block for an HOUR, went through the entire sheet and didn't get though it all. So, I went to the basement and tried files. Forget that. They chewed at the key but my arm is SORE for it. So I tried the round part of the belt sander and that DID make a difference but it also make the key uneven. I wanted to try the flat metal backed part of the sander but i just couldn't hold the key. SO I figured out a sort of jig to hold they key still and flat against the metal part that would take the heat of the friction and sand the key.
It works but thanks to my experimenting on just the one key this one lost a lot of material. XD But that's why I bought so many. I knew i was going to lose at least one to just figuring out the best way to blank them. I'll try a fresh key later but my fingers are sore and burnt from heat and just trying to hold the darn thing in my fingers. Think I'll be blanking them FIRST then getting them cut. Those teeth are really rough on fingers XP
Well that's good then. Hope they send actual JMA branded keys and not just the equivalent to it.
On another note...sanding these keys suuuuuucks! These things are tough keys, no question. I sanded at one with 220 grit paper on a metal block for an HOUR, went through the entire sheet and didn't get though it all. So, I went to the basement and tried files. Forget that. They chewed at the key but my arm is SORE for it. So I tried the round part of the belt sander and that DID make a difference but it also make the key uneven. I wanted to try the flat metal backed part of the sander but i just couldn't hold the key. SO I figured out a sort of jig to hold they key still and flat against the metal part that would take the heat of the friction and sand the key.
It works but thanks to my experimenting on just the one key this one lost a lot of material. XD But that's why I bought so many. I knew i was going to lose at least one to just figuring out the best way to blank them. I'll try a fresh key later but my fingers are sore and burnt from heat and just trying to hold the darn thing in my fingers. Think I'll be blanking them FIRST then getting them cut. Those teeth are really rough on fingers XP
Organic Mechanic
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
Holy cow dude! You put some effort into grinding that key! Don't you know anyone with access to an industrial belt sander? You need to start with a coarser grit. Maybe as low as 80. Then work your way up. Looks good though, and I like the fixture.
thumbsup
Well that's good then. Hope they send actual JMA branded keys and not just the equivalent to it.
On another note...sanding these keys suuuuuucks! These things are tough keys, no question. I sanded at one with 220 grit paper on a metal block for an HOUR, went through the entire sheet and didn't get though it all. So, I went to the basement and tried files. Forget that. They chewed at the key but my arm is SORE for it. So I tried the round part of the belt sander and that DID make a difference but it also make the key uneven. I wanted to try the flat metal backed part of the sander but i just couldn't hold the key. SO I figured out a sort of jig to hold they key still and flat against the metal part that would take the heat of the friction and sand the key.
It works but thanks to my experimenting on just the one key this one lost a lot of material. XD But that's why I bought so many. I knew i was going to lose at least one to just figuring out the best way to blank them. I'll try a fresh key later but my fingers are sore and burnt from heat and just trying to hold the darn thing in my fingers. Think I'll be blanking them FIRST then getting them cut. Those teeth are really rough on fingers XP
Holy cow dude! You put some effort into grinding that key! Don't you know anyone with access to an industrial belt sander? You need to start with a coarser grit. Maybe as low as 80. Then work your way up. Looks good though, and I like the fixture.
thumbsup
Straker
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
Don't need it to be industrial. XD Also 80 is way too coarse. You'll be sanding at it for ages trying to remove the deep scratches . When I tried it, 150 was too coarse. By the time I got to the 800 grit you could still see the sand marks for the 150 and by the time you sand those out you will have lost a lot of material. You want to sand these JUST enough to remove the brand and do it gradually so you don't lose too much material and also have enough for followup sanding and polishing. Besides 220 took maybe 2 minutes for the back side of the key. Hardest part was figuring out what method worked best and how to hold the darn thing. Belt sander, 220 grit in a jig to hold it so far works best. I'll be sanding this with a follow up of 400 and 1000 to see if the 220 sand marks will disappear. If not I'll pick up some 300 or 400 grit belts to try next. A lighter starting grit will probably add a few minutes to each side but a total of 10 minutes sanding time for the initial sand is still a cake walk compared to doing any of this by hand. XP
Holy cow dude! You put some effort into grinding that key! Don't you know anyone with access to an industrial belt sander? You need to start with a coarser grit. Maybe as low as 80. Then work your way up. Looks good though, and I like the fixture.
Don't need it to be industrial. XD Also 80 is way too coarse. You'll be sanding at it for ages trying to remove the deep scratches . When I tried it, 150 was too coarse. By the time I got to the 800 grit you could still see the sand marks for the 150 and by the time you sand those out you will have lost a lot of material. You want to sand these JUST enough to remove the brand and do it gradually so you don't lose too much material and also have enough for followup sanding and polishing. Besides 220 took maybe 2 minutes for the back side of the key. Hardest part was figuring out what method worked best and how to hold the darn thing. Belt sander, 220 grit in a jig to hold it so far works best. I'll be sanding this with a follow up of 400 and 1000 to see if the 220 sand marks will disappear. If not I'll pick up some 300 or 400 grit belts to try next. A lighter starting grit will probably add a few minutes to each side but a total of 10 minutes sanding time for the initial sand is still a cake walk compared to doing any of this by hand. XP
SirJediKnightTim
Well-Known Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
I just got my key!! And it is the same as Straker's. It does have the nub thing sticking out like in the photo on their website, but it's on the right side, just like his. And there are 2 grooves running down the key section that get's cut. Sorry, I don't know real names of the parts of keys :lol It is steel because a magnet sticks to it.
I just got my key!! And it is the same as Straker's. It does have the nub thing sticking out like in the photo on their website, but it's on the right side, just like his. And there are 2 grooves running down the key section that get's cut. Sorry, I don't know real names of the parts of keys :lol It is steel because a magnet sticks to it.
Organic Mechanic
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
Ohh-EEE! Just came from the hardware store (needed some more TARDIS Blue paint), and boy they look at one queerly when they ask about buying key blanks and what the key composition might be. XD
No luck at any rate. Store around here carry only Axcces and Ilco.
Ohh-EEE! Just came from the hardware store (needed some more TARDIS Blue paint), and boy they look at one queerly when they ask about buying key blanks and what the key composition might be. XD
No luck at any rate. Store around here carry only Axcces and Ilco.
Straker
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
Hey guys, glad you got your keys. I just got an email this morning from my source and he's cool with ordering blanks from him. I got all my help from uklocksport and you can contact them about the CI-DL and A1 keys here: Contact us - specialkeys
Hey guys, glad you got your keys. I just got an email this morning from my source and he's cool with ordering blanks from him. I got all my help from uklocksport and you can contact them about the CI-DL and A1 keys here: Contact us - specialkeys
Straker
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
BTW, this is what I'm planning to use to do the initial blanking of the keys: http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-R3X21S40-21-Sanding-Belt/dp/B0009JPND6/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b I won't have to let my arms get tired, this will take longer but I'll be able to control the amount of material getting removed a lot easier with this grit, not to mention that the type of belt this is is designed to be used on metal.
"Aluminum Oxide Abrasive Grain - Aluminum oxide is extremely tough and has a wedge shape for high penetration of tough materials without excessive shedding or fracturing of the grain. Aluminum oxide is suited particularly well for grinding high tensile strength materials i.e. carbon steels, alloy steels, tough bronze and hard woods."
And so seeing as how that's exactly what we're working on this should do well. Now apparently this particular brand is sold at Sears. Nobody else has anything higher than 120 grit at any rate so if i can I'll check the Sears up the road from where I work tomorrow when I get out of work and see if they have it, if they do great, if not I order online and either way I'll let you all know how it turns out.
BTW, this is what I'm planning to use to do the initial blanking of the keys: http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-R3X21S40-21-Sanding-Belt/dp/B0009JPND6/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b I won't have to let my arms get tired, this will take longer but I'll be able to control the amount of material getting removed a lot easier with this grit, not to mention that the type of belt this is is designed to be used on metal.
"Aluminum Oxide Abrasive Grain - Aluminum oxide is extremely tough and has a wedge shape for high penetration of tough materials without excessive shedding or fracturing of the grain. Aluminum oxide is suited particularly well for grinding high tensile strength materials i.e. carbon steels, alloy steels, tough bronze and hard woods."
And so seeing as how that's exactly what we're working on this should do well. Now apparently this particular brand is sold at Sears. Nobody else has anything higher than 120 grit at any rate so if i can I'll check the Sears up the road from where I work tomorrow when I get out of work and see if they have it, if they do great, if not I order online and either way I'll let you all know how it turns out.
TimeyWhimyStuff
Well-Known Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
In the process of starting my key collection, read a wealth of info from this thread so thanks guys. If someone would kindly tell me exactly what size chip this is as well as what the gold sticker thingy is behind the wires? Greatly appreciate it. Thanks again!
In the process of starting my key collection, read a wealth of info from this thread so thanks guys. If someone would kindly tell me exactly what size chip this is as well as what the gold sticker thingy is behind the wires? Greatly appreciate it. Thanks again!
Straker
Sr Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
Well there IS a chipped key thread where I covered that but I can tell you what I used. The "sticker" isn't, it's a SIM card pad from a cell phone I removed and trimmed into shape and the chip can be a 555 timer circuit but on that one I used a "compensated amplifier" chip because I thought the idea of using an amplifier on a key that is supposed to have an amplified perception filter on it would rather fitting. As for the SIZE of the chip, they usually come standard with no real size variations. When I looked at 55 timer chips I found several other chips including the one I used all had the same size to them so you should be good either way. I plan to TRY to remove the electronics from my blanked ERA key and transplant them onto a blanked JMA key so it looks better...failing that I may eBay the first key I built. XD
If anyone is interested, even though I already posted the info in the chipped key thread I can post my build here as well. Seeing as how it's still a modern key I don't think it would derail my own thread or be off topic or redundant.
Well there IS a chipped key thread where I covered that but I can tell you what I used. The "sticker" isn't, it's a SIM card pad from a cell phone I removed and trimmed into shape and the chip can be a 555 timer circuit but on that one I used a "compensated amplifier" chip because I thought the idea of using an amplifier on a key that is supposed to have an amplified perception filter on it would rather fitting. As for the SIZE of the chip, they usually come standard with no real size variations. When I looked at 55 timer chips I found several other chips including the one I used all had the same size to them so you should be good either way. I plan to TRY to remove the electronics from my blanked ERA key and transplant them onto a blanked JMA key so it looks better...failing that I may eBay the first key I built. XD
If anyone is interested, even though I already posted the info in the chipped key thread I can post my build here as well. Seeing as how it's still a modern key I don't think it would derail my own thread or be off topic or redundant.
TimeyWhimyStuff
Well-Known Member
Re: Yale and ERA Tardis Key Research (Info for the 2005-present keys)
Thanks for the tips... Sorry if it had already been covered.
Thanks for the tips... Sorry if it had already been covered.
