JFcustom's FOAM files

Hi guys

I wonder if someone would file this armor modified to foam


thank;) S.H.Figuarts-Golden-Knight-Garo-01-1-.jpg
 
Thanks for replying, everything if possible :)

I was just wondering cause everything of the superman suit is spandex or another fabric.
There is nothing to make a foam item of...

....do you want to make a foam helmet that looks like supermans hair?


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There are a lot of opinions out there, but I'm looking for Eva foam. There are different consistencies and things like that. I'm not looking to spend a whole lot but want more for my money?
 
Sorry to interrupt the superman discussion...I would like to ask a question about the Iron Man foam masks if possible.

Currently I am putting together the paper version of Classic Iron Man.pdo to check the scaling for each piece and so far,so good (knock on wood).
It seems that the current scale for the mask is nearly perfect,but getting my head through the opening is another matter.

My question is: Is the (neck) opening at the bottom of the mask what I should focus on when scaling?
Or do I cut bits and pieces and make the opening larger afterwards in order for me to get my head inside,and for the mask not to become huge after altering the scale?
Or as a third option,do people put padding inside the mask to compensate the extra space inside?

I could probably add another inch for depth measurement,but that's about its limit before it starts to look weird.

Thank you for your help and patience.
 
JFcustom - Thanks for having all the great templates on this thread. I used the Hawkgirl template to make a foam helm for my daughter this Halloween. She loved it (see pic). Lots of triangles to trace/cut...I saw them in my sleep.
 

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Sorry to interrupt the superman discussion...I would like to ask a question about the Iron Man foam masks if possible.

Currently I am putting together the paper version of Classic Iron Man.pdo to check the scaling for each piece and so far,so good (knock on wood).
It seems that the current scale for the mask is nearly perfect,but getting my head through the opening is another matter.

My question is: Is the (neck) opening at the bottom of the mask what I should focus on when scaling?
Or do I cut bits and pieces and make the opening larger afterwards in order for me to get my head inside,and for the mask not to become huge after altering the scale?
Or as a third option,do people put padding inside the mask to compensate the extra space inside?

I could probably add another inch for depth measurement,but that's about its limit before it starts to look weird.

Thank you for your help and patience.

I would make the helmet to fit your head, and then have it open up to put it on. With the movie versions of Iron Man, people generally have one of the back pieces removable (in addition to the faceplate, a lot of the time) to make a big enough opening to get it on, then you re-attach the piece (often with magnets). I did something similar with my Star-Lord helmet - the whole back is attached to the front with magnets, so I can take it apart to put it on. I couldn't get my head into it if it was one piece.
 
Thank you for your input,Yrien.
Just wondering: does this also apply to the multi-hero cowl,or all helmets for that matter?
 
Thank you for your input,Yrien.
Just wondering: does this also apply to the multi-hero cowl,or all helmets for that matter?

I suspect it would depend on how it fits. I've only finished the Star-Lord helmet so I can't speak to those other ones. Something like the movie version of the Captain America cowl/helmet wouldn't need that, but Iron Man definitely does. I would advise building a quick and dirty paper version (not cardstock, just regular computer paper) to see how it fits before moving to your final version so you'll know if you need to separate it or not.
 
The paper version is already made and was a near perfect fit, naturally taking into account the thickness of the foam.

The problem I ran into was the bottom of the chin ,preventing my head from entering the helmet by approximately 2cm.In theory,not that big a problem you'd say.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Uu2GMR6DjDA (fast forward to around 01:55)

However,I wish to keep the foam costume as intact as possible.

I watched this video and nearly at the end (around 15:40) he confirms the suggestion splitting the helmet:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=XRFuTXYPjUA

As a follow-up question I would like to ask whether the same goes for the (opening of the) neck? Create two halves that can be joined by magnets?
 
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The paper version is already made and was a near perfect fit, naturally taking into account the thickness of the foam.

The problem I ran into was the bottom of the chin ,preventing my head from entering the helmet by approximately 2cm.In theory,not that big a problem you'd say.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Uu2GMR6DjDA (fast forward to around 01:55)

However,I wish to keep the foam costume as intact as possible.

I watched this video and nearly at the end (around 15:40) he confirms the suggestion splitting the helmet:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=XRFuTXYPjUA

As a follow-up question I would like to ask whether the same goes for the (opening of the) neck? Create two halves that can be joined by magnets?

I can't get on YouTube from work so I can't view the videos until I get home, but I will answer you with more specifics later (unless someone else can help in the meantime).

If you want to keep things as intact as possible, can you make the split in a hidden section - e.g. make the bottom of the chin removable? Since I can't see the video (or the pep file) from work, this may not be feasable, but if it's possible, it would mean that the "split" would be nearly impossible to see once the helmet is on and the piece put back in place.

As far as the neck opening, you're talking a separate piece from the helmet now, right? Between the top of the chest and the helmet? I've never made one, but I've seen people close their neck seals up with velcro for sure. Not sure I've seen anyone close it with magnets, but it could definitely work that way too, as long as you make sure it isn't going to accidentally magnet itself to the helmet or anything else!
 
Thank you for your view on this build.Taking the chin piece out definitely sounds like an easier solution than splitting the helmet vertically.The (flat) magnets can be hidden in a small gap close to where the edges meet and most likely can carry the weight of the chin piece.

For as far as I could tell,the neck isn't a part of the helmet itself,but the top seems modified to fit the bottom of the helmet.I would probably place the magnets in the middle of the two collar parts,or at least far enough out of range of those at the bottom of the helmet.

Thanks again,Yrien.Appreciate the help.
 

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