JFcustom's FOAM files

I would just like to thank everyone who has been contributing to this thread it has been super helpful. I asked earlier on how to make the seams less visible and gave it another go with some really promising results. I am now finding that it is less the seem itself that is giving the seem away and more that the flat edges leading up to the seam is and the way the light reflects off of it is what is giving it away. On the next one I will try sanding the entire helmet so that it is all the same curve instead of flat edges. I do have a heat gun and I tried to use that except the flaps on it were too small to hold at the right curve. Any other ideas would be helpful.
IMG_2833.JPG

you can obviously see the huge difference from my first attempt on the left and second attempt on the right. I did a lot differently, first of all, changed from wood glue to white glue and thinned down the white glue so it was more even. I also sanded the heck out of the seems and filled extra gaps with more hot glue that I smoothed out and sanded down. And I added way more plasti-dip, about 4 coats and sprayed it on a lot heavyer, I suffered a bit for there are major drip marks in the back. I cant seem to get an even coat with plasti-dip when I try to spray it lightly.

IMG_2834.JPG

I think it was a huge improvement, I am going to try again to make the helmet look seamless. I figure if I can master the seamless look here I can probably master any helmet haha. I also toyed with 2 mm foam here to seem how adding those details worked and I might use those again to make my next helmet look even more like the one from TFA.
 

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Hi all I found a Death Stroke Armor file that just needs to be unfolded i am way to much of a noob to do the unfold myself I found it on the 405th's site under "File it under Crimmson"
thanks to him for sharing the file i've checked everywhere for a unfolded suite

I know of one but its a bit too expensive for me to purchase and i am currently busy teaching myself with Pepakura and going through a few tutorials i am no way near to unfolding a whole armor suite but if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated and i think a lotttttttttt of noobs and members would appreciate a Death Stroke suite

Its the deathstroke from Arkham Origins i spoke to laellee and he thinks it is a direct file from the game

Thanks in advance and thanks JF for a awesome thread and everyone that has answered my many many noob questions

PM me and i will send the file via email to anyone who is interested as from this morning i see that the 405th site is down
 
i would really like to make a spider-man faceshell. the pep shells that i have seen all have eyeholes but are not much use as the frames i have are too small for the eye holes.i have found a pep shell on another page. it has no eye-holes and would really be useful to people. however its unfolded and when printed fits onto one A4 sheet when normally its six. if someone knows how to unfold this or preferably convert it to a foam unfold, can you please pm me. the link is below. thanks

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_sNvgA37t6qS2wxeU5fS09lclU/edit?pli=1
 
I have a random question....

I printed my patterns on basic computer paper. I tape the pattern pieces to there appropriated areas and now I want to stick the computer paper patterns to the foam mats temporary. What do you guys use to stick the computer paper patterns to the foam mat without it moving around or coming apart while you are cutting?
 
princemercury1 said:
I have a random question....

I printed my patterns on basic computer paper. I tape the pattern pieces to there appropriated areas and now I want to stick the computer paper patterns to the foam mats temporary. What do you guys use to stick the computer paper patterns to the foam mat without it moving around or coming apart while you are cutting?
Click to expand...
cut the paper pieces and trace it to the foam with a pen or marker along the paper edges then cut the foam pieces

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
I use use a light duty masking tape, cut into about 5mm x 10mm strips. Then as BORN1977 said, trace the outline with a pen or marker ( I've also used a light mist of colored spray paint ). Then remove the templates and cut... Hope it helps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Bandiet said:
I use use a light duty masking tape, cut into about 5mm x 10mm strips. Then as BORN1977 said, trace the outline with a pen or marker ( I've also used a light mist of colored spray paint ). Then remove the templates and cut... Hope it helps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I use #110 cardstock, the same paper used by a lot of people to build the paper/resin suits (rather than foam). I cut the templates out with scissors/box cutter, tape them together where needed with invisible tape, and then just lay them right on the foam before tracing with a ball-point. The thicker paper tends to hold up better against the tip of the pen when tracing, and it also makes the templates more durable if I want to use them for more than one build.

Oh yeah, and when you trace, avoid permanent markers (like Sharpies). They work VERY WELL, but I've had the color bleed through 3 coats of PVA,3 coats of Plastidip, and still show through the final paint on a suit. It won't matter much if you only trace the edges, but some people like to mark the opposite piece they cut to keep them separate (the one they cut out with a flipped template) by putting a dot or writing on them. I had to reseal and paint most of a completed MK 7, because I'd put L's on every piece of foam from a flipped template. It sucked.
 
laellee said:
I use #110 cardstock, the same paper used by a lot of people to build the paper/resin suits (rather than foam). I cut the templates out with scissors/box cutter, tape them together where needed with invisible tape, and then just lay them right on the foam before tracing with a ball-point. The thicker paper tends to hold up better against the tip of the pen when tracing, and it also makes the templates more durable if I want to use them for more than one build.

Oh yeah, and when you trace, avoid permanent markers (like Sharpies). They work VERY WELL, but I've had the color bleed through 3 coats of PVA,3 coats of Plastidip, and still show through the final paint on a suit. It won't matter much if you only trace the edges, but some people like to mark the opposite piece they cut to keep them separate (the one they cut out with a flipped template) by putting a dot or writing on them. I had to reseal and paint most of a completed MK 7, because I'd put L's on every piece of foam from a flipped template. It sucked.
Click to expand...

You're right Laellee, I had the same issue on my fibreglass build with regards to the permanent markers. I used it to mark imperfections while applying the body filler and, as you said, the marks were still apparent after 2 coats primer and 3 coats paint. Thanks for pointing that out... I forgot about that issue.

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
 
princemercury1 said:
I have a random question....

I printed my patterns on basic computer paper. I tape the pattern pieces to there appropriated areas and now I want to stick the computer paper patterns to the foam mats temporary. What do you guys use to stick the computer paper patterns to the foam mat without it moving around or coming apart while you are cutting?
Click to expand...


I use sewing pins to hold it down and a sharpie the outlines. Just plain old white A4 paper to print on.
 
hi there great work . wish i had found this page before i made my ironman helmet from foam took many tries. the one thing i still strugle with is scale i am 6ft7inch tall and been adjusting the scale by 10 % on the file wich seem ok for shin an upper leg as the file is on defealt for 6 ft.do u think ishould go higher .
 
Hi Guys,
I'm building my first Ironman and also my first Foam Suit.
I've just started with the MK8 helmet and I've got a question...

Does the main mask part totaly overlapp the marked part in the picture?
I'm working with 5mm foam mats.

On pictures of the movie, it's just a flat area.
I have to ask this because on the smal part there is an area for overlapping and if its designed for this i have to cut it.



Would be great if you could help me, pictures will come :)

Greets from Austria (The country with no kangaroos :p)
 
I'm starting to make the iron man suit out of foam, based on everything I've read here on therpf.com, but scaling is my biggest issue. I took the measurements from this page but the helmet was way too small. I increased it by 10% and it fit, but seems a bit big. I just started on the arm piece and I can't seem to figure out what scale to use. I'm 6' tall 175lbs. Slender built. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks - Adam
 
Taylor said:
I'm starting to make the iron man suit out of foam, based on everything I've read here on therpf.com, but scaling is my biggest issue. I took the measurements from this page but the helmet was way too small. I increased it by 10% and it fit, but seems a bit big. I just started on the arm piece and I can't seem to figure out what scale to use. I'm 6' tall 175lbs. Slender built. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks - Adam
Click to expand...

Which suit? They all fit and scale differently.
 
laellee, I'm using Darkside's MVII foam unfold, I'm just unsure how to scale it to myself. I made the helmet as is in without changing anything and it was too small, then I increased it 10% and it's kinda big, but slides on easy. I was just wondering what is the best way to go about scaling it to myself.
 
Taylor said:
laellee, I'm using Darkside's MVII foam unfold, I'm just unsure how to scale it to myself. I made the helmet as is in without changing anything and it was too small, then I increased it 10% and it's kinda big, but slides on easy. I was just wondering what is the best way to go about scaling it to myself.
Click to expand...

It sucks, but a lot of the time trial and error is what it will take to get you there. Specifically for the helmet, measure your head diameter, likely somewhere between 22-24 inches. Post that measurement up over on Mike's (Darkside501st) thread for the MK7 files, and with any luck somebody will pop in with the same head measurement and tell you the scale they used.
 

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