1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build

Loosebruce704 said:
Hi sofa

For hinges what about these:
https://www.caravanaccessoryshop.co.uk/product/locker-stay/534
Also look at related items for different ones.
These are all different ones I sell at work that caravans use for cupboards etc.

Hope that gives some inspiration.

But tbh I would have thought you could make your own by creating a outer body and slider and fit a spring inside that is right tension you need then you could get look you after.

As for spares leave it with me I will get a link for you as they are all in a new section of the website that's not fully live yet and I only have link to it works pc.

(Depending on hinges I might be able to sort you a couple I have found several old regulators etc that at some point I'd like to send over to you but I need to make sure I have money's worth to send).

Loosebruce
Click to expand...

Hey LB,

Those hinges/struts are perfect! What is the spring rating? The panel lid is only 1 - 2 pounds so I wouldn't even need the actual spring.

I considered making my own but I think something that has been tested and proven to work is a better path forward.

I appreciate your willingness to help out! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I'll send you a PM to discuss details!

- - - Updated - - -

BruceKenobi said:
I would love if this movie finally showed other parts of the Falcon, or from different angles
Click to expand...

Hey BK,

I do too! TFA showed us a few new areas to include the extended corridor past the main hull and of course the panel boxes I'm working on. I'm wondering if we're going to see the actual engine and cargo areas! That would be a LOT of fun!
 
SofaKing01 said:
Hey BK,

I do too! TFA showed us a few new areas to include the extended corridor past the main hull and of course the panel boxes I'm working on. I'm wondering if we're going to see the actual engine and cargo areas! That would be a LOT of fun!
Click to expand...

Exactly!! we never saw that corridor! I hope we get to see engine rooms or living quarters or maybe the cargo areas as well! I've been intrigued by your sketches and started some sketching myself on how it could be.
 
Hi Gang,

What a frustrating weekend... I think it was about time I had one of those! Things had been going too smoothly.

The weekend started with my taking these old extension panel lids and FINALLY getting them primed and painted - turns out they were the wrong size for the new panel boxes I just created
20170224_175133_zpsloxgeytr.jpg


So I had to cut all new ones...
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Guide Template
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Now I have 10 panels... :facepalm
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Since the panel would be hinged and we would be seeing the other side of the lid, I designed the "inside" of the panel
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Primed and painted
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I decided to go ahead and paint two of the older panels as there are two of these on the lower back wall - more later
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I picked up a piano hinge for the lids
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Which was too big! Does anybody have any ideas for these hinges?
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I was hoping to finish this area so I started by drilling some countersink holes
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Only to knock two of the four greeblies onto the floor shattering the ceramics rendering them useless!
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So I came up with this temporary layout. I don't feel it
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The wires are just in place to get them out of the way
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As many of you know I've started work on the Nav Chairs! I'm hoping to have most of the parts CNC'd next week! For now, I designed and laser cut many of the associated greeblies
20170226_110008_zpsk80zqvxp.jpg


These are just for 1 chair. I'll need 3 sets
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Primer!
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I dont really like the way this turned out. The small round pieces are supposed to be pop rivets. I've never used pop rivets in MDF so I'm going to see how / if that works
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Paint
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1 of 3
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Believe it or not... all of these had to be tossed!
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Junk!
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One of the few pieces that turned out
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Dont feel it... JUNK IT!
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Most of this... garbage!
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Recut... garbage
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Out of the ENTIRE weekend... the only greeblie that was actually finished was this guy - I cut this screen to fit
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Adhered in place
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Funny thing... this sits behind a Volvo dash cluster so most of it wont even be seen
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Thank god this weekend is OVER! What a waste!
 
Sofa, the great thing about piano hinges is that you can cut them to length, too. The hinge pin is still going all the way through what's left, so you don't need to worry about it sliding out.
 
Operascot said:
Sofa, the great thing about piano hinges is that you can cut them to length, too. The hinge pin is still going all the way through what's left, so you don't need to worry about it sliding out.
Click to expand...

Hey OS,

Yeah, I think it was just the way the entire weekend went that I wasn't feeling it with the piano hinge. They were on sale so I'll cut them to fit, paint black and see how they look. My only concern is that I really have only one shot at mounting a hinge so I want to make sure I get it right the first time.

- - - Updated - - -

Friendly flyer said:
Oh no, those nice fuses! Can't you sculpt the broken off part in clay and weather it (cover it in grime) so the difference in material won't show?
Click to expand...

Hey FF,

All the areas that broke are right around the mounting points. I have 2 left but I've already drilled the holes in the board for 3 fuses. I'm looking at other options for that area. I'm just glad this weekend is over!
 
MastahBlastah said:
If the MDF can't handle pop rivets, could you just cut the heads off of some pop rivets and epoxy them in place? Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Hey MB,

I'm so frustrated from the weekend I didn't even think of that! If I laser cut the hole big/small enough I should be able to push the rivet into place (with a dab of epoxy). GREAT IDEA! Thanks! :)
 
SofaKing01 said:
Hey FF,

All the areas that broke are right around the mounting points. I have 2 left but I've already drilled the holes in the board for 3 fuses. I'm looking at other options for that area. I'm just glad this weekend is over!
Click to expand...

You might be able to resculpt those areas using epoxy putty such as Aves. If done right, they would be strong enough to be mounted. Aves has a long working time. If you prefer a short working time, something like J-B Weld would work, and be stupidly strong. Of course you would have to paint with a high gloss to mimic the ceramic glaze.

Mark
 
SofaKing01 said:
Hey MB,

I'm so frustrated from the weekend I didn't even think of that! If I laser cut the hole big/small enough I should be able to push the rivet into place (with a dab of epoxy). GREAT IDEA! Thanks! :)
Click to expand...

Oh,I know how it feels when every thing you touch turns to turds. I hope you' have had a good nights sleep and feel better!

If the epoxy isn't strong enough, a thin metal plate (or indeed washers with a suitably sized hole) on the backside of the MDF will also do the trick. Pop-rivets was originally invented to bolt sheet metal plates to each other, and that's still what they do best.
 
Darth Humorous said:
You might be able to resculpt those areas using epoxy putty such as Aves. If done right, they would be strong enough to be mounted. Aves has a long working time. If you prefer a short working time, something like J-B Weld would work, and be stupidly strong. Of course you would have to paint with a high gloss to mimic the ceramic glaze.

Mark
Click to expand...

Hey M,

As much as I like those fuses, I'm thinking of going in a different direction. I still have several old vintage circuit boards in my collection that I'm currently looking at. Everybody should be me well enough by now that I wont settle until it looks the part! :)

Thanks for the great info and stay tuned!
 
Friendly flyer said:
Oh,I know how it feels when every thing you touch turns to turds. I hope you' have had a good nights sleep and feel better!

If the epoxy isn't strong enough, a thin metal plate (or indeed washers with a suitably sized hole) on the backside of the MDF will also do the trick. Pop-rivets was originally invented to bolt sheet metal plates to each other, and that's still what they do best.
Click to expand...

Hey FF,

This whole weekend was one big giant turd! I'm going to take a few days away from the project, regroup and then hit those panel boxes, and everything else, with a more positive attitude!

The two biggest concerns I have right now re: the panel boxes and their associated lids are weight and the thickness of the MDF. I dont want the lids to be too heavy as they are lifted up and locked into place - I was thinking magnets but then I have to include some sort of pull handle or recessed area to put your fingers before pulling down. As we all know, I'm trying to stay as screen accurate as possible so I can't add a pull handle anywhere to the visible surface so the recessed area might be the simple solution.

I can continue to go with the vacuformed panels I have in place and simply epoxy the hinge and strut to the surface. From the exterior that would probably work perfectly, but I really dont want to be able to see all the epoxy or other material used when the lid is opened. I'd really like to have a clean engineered look.

The other concern, as I mentioned, is thickness. The lids HAVE to be thick enough to accept the mounting hardware for both the hinges and struts whether they be pop rivets, screws, bolts, fiberglass, epoxy, JB weld, etc etc etc. The screws or bolts can't be exposed as the lid has to close flat against the panel surface. I might be able to epoxy the piano hinge in place then use small countersunk decorative screws?

It's all being worked in my head. If you guys / gals have ANY ideas PLEASE feel free to let me know! :)
 
If your MDF panel is thick enough, you could put a slit on the side of the panel with circular saw blade and slide the flat part of the piano hinge inside that cut.
Then, it's a matter of finding your screw holes and using some kind of fancy screws to secure the hinge.:)
 
joberg said:
If your MDF panel is thick enough, you could put a slit on the side of the panel with circular saw blade and slide the flat part of the piano hinge inside that cut.
Then, it's a matter of finding your screw holes and using some kind of fancy screws to secure the hinge.:)
Click to expand...

Hey J,

The Piano hinge is designed, when attached to the two panels, to fold against itself and lay flat. If I insert one edge/side of the hinge into a slit it wont align / lay flat. The hinge is a very simple design I just have to make sure its 1) aligned properly and 2) I have enough meat and material strength (MDF) for the hinge to work.

If that makes any sense at all...
 
My only other suggestion is to accept all kind of fastners showing. I mean, panels are panels, and even in galaxies far, far away they have to be fastened with something. I don't think a few pop-rive heads will ruin the good looks of your cockpit.
 

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