1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build

Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

static

I'm sure that $500 is best spent elsewhere :)

Ya, like replacing all the switches people break. :lol

Trust me, you'll be doing that A LOT. I think functional switches will eventually pay for itself and even better, if you get the itch later you can make them actually do things.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hey OB,

you make a good point... And I need to decide rather quickly. One panel has almost 100 switches... ugh... My poor drill!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

You are fired OB, cause you have changed my mind . . . FUNCTIONAL! DO IT!:behave
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I agree... he's fired! Now... who the heck is going to pay for all these switches? lol
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I agree... he's fired! Now... who the heck is going to pay for all these switches? lol

Looks like you need one of those donation funds.

I see people post these to help invest in film projects and equipement.
Why should this be any different.

I am sure there are a ton of awesome people here who would give to
the cause! :thumbsup
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Orange_Blend is absolutely right. I have built a lot of props and the first thing people do is play with the switches. If someone sees all those switches they invariably will try one.

If it's going to be on display were people can't physically reach it then the static switches are fine, but if you plan to let people close there is no question that they will play with the switches.

That's just my opinion. I'd hate see you do all this work and get frustrated constantly replacing broken switches.

By the way this is possibly the most awesome thing I have ever seen!!! The console is incredible, but making the bulkhead behind it is beyond words. I check this post a couple times a day... you are an inspiration.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I agree... the pain replacing the broken switches would keep Canobi forever busy... :)

SO... With the decision made to use functional switches... I really don't want to recreate this panel. What is the best way to fill these holes with the understanding that there cannot be any obstruction behind the panel in order to mount the functional switches? Do I use filler? Glue and filler? Fiberglass?

How do I fill these holes? This is a photoshopped image. :)
1-1.jpg


Any ideas?
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang,

This is the toggle switch I was able to find for $1.28 ea. As we all know I will need a minimum of 450 just for the cockpit. That doesn't include the gunner stations or Nav Computer. If anybody knows a distributor who might be able to get them cheaper please let me know!

Part #: Pico 5540PT 12 Volt 16 Amp On-Off Toggle Switch

Link:
Pico 5540PT 12 Volt 16 Amp On-Off Toggle Switch 1" Black Handle SPST 1 Per Package
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

By the way this is possibly the most awesome thing I have ever seen!!! The console is incredible, but making the bulkhead behind it is beyond words. I check this post a couple times a day... you are an inspiration.

Hi 13,

Thank you for the very kind words. :) The bulkhead is JUST the beginning. I am also doing the surround as well. I am SO excited to get back to work. The best is when the paint goes on and I can begin pinstriping. That's when I know I'm getting close! :)

Thanks again!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang,

Any help or ideas?

With the decision made to use functional switches... I really don't want to recreate this panel. What is the best way to fill these holes with the understanding that there cannot be any obstruction behind the panel in order to mount the functional switches? Do I use filler? Glue and filler? Fiberglass?

How do I fill these holes? This is a photoshopped image. :)
1-1.jpg


Any ideas?
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi G

If I remember right, a mix of wood glue and sawdust makes a great filler of holes. It should be quite firm with just enough glue to bind it all together, then stuff it in the holes, level off and wait till it dries :thumbsup
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I'll give that a shot. My concern is the diameter of the hole. Any thoughts on a good thin backing? I was thinking about fiberglassing the holes.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Could you plug them with cut pieces of round dowel glued in place, Then fill any seam
line that may be left around it?
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Good call... I just want to make sure whatever I do will be strong enough to stand up to the moving around, etc... The holes are fairly large. I'll try a dowel as well. :)
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

What I've done in the past is put a peice of masking tape on the back side. Make sure you lay the panel down. The tape creates a kind of cup. Then I mix 5 minute epoxy and pour it into the hole. After it's cured you can sand and paint it. You can even peel the tape after word if you wont. Just make sure to overfill the "cup" a little so you can sand flat.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

What I've done in the past is put a peice of masking tape on the back side. Make sure you lay the panel down. The tape creates a kind of cup. Then I mix 5 minute epoxy and pour it into the hole. After it's cured you can sand and paint it. You can even peel the tape after word if you wont. Just make sure to overfill the "cup" a little so you can sand flat.

Does it bond well enough to drill through the seam?

Sofaking, I suggest trying a couple different methods on scrap first. :thumbsup
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

That was the plan. I have a piece I've been using for back lighting ideas. I'm going to use that scrap piece with the dowel. I tried using glue and filler and so far - it's taking a while to dry. I think the dowel is the way to go.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

THUD!!!!!!

I saw static, but stick with the "before" version and fill the extra hole with an LED or something to retain the "busy" look we all love.
 

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