Nerf Aliens Pulse Rifle Build
- Thread starter quest
- Start date
Absolute genius! Such a great example of how fun and unique this hobby can get! I'm really impressed with how well you pulled this off!
whiteraven
Well-Known Member
Ok, if that appeared on the shelf at the local store, I'd buy it! That looks amazing, totally not NERF looking anymore.
Haha! Thanks again everyone 
It's funny...I didn't really know what to expect before I painted the black parts (the original Nerf colors are a bit disorienting ) but it really does have a pretty legit look to it.
Oneye: checked out the Terminator gun, and it's definitely doable with the leftover gun bits I have...I'm not familiar enough with the gun to want it on my wall though...if I was going to do anything, it would either be the rifle from Starship Troopers or something from District 9
It's funny...I didn't really know what to expect before I painted the black parts (the original Nerf colors are a bit disorienting ) but it really does have a pretty legit look to it. Oneye: checked out the Terminator gun, and it's definitely doable with the leftover gun bits I have...I'm not familiar enough with the gun to want it on my wall though...if I was going to do anything, it would either be the rifle from Starship Troopers or something from District 9
AnubisGuard
Master Member
Does the pump-action single-shot dart chamber under the main barrel still fire? It doesn't have a trigger any more, but your build pic makes it look like the rest of the mechanism is in there.
^yup...I extended the trigger mechanism with a few pieces of styrene (2 duplicate pieces, glued together for strength), and carved a new trigger out of it. It looks something like this inside the gun:
______________==
{
The "==" part is the notch that locks into the existing trigger mechanism, and the "{" is the new trigger.
so the new trigger is just in front of the clip, like in the movie version. The extended bit runs through the top part of the longshot front gun that I repositioned to the bottom of the launcher. I just had to cut a small notch into the front, bottom corner of the recon to fit the trigger in. It was a pretty tight fit to give it enough room to fit a finger in, and still have the travel to pull the trigger.
Hopefully some of that made sense
______________==
{
The "==" part is the notch that locks into the existing trigger mechanism, and the "{" is the new trigger.
so the new trigger is just in front of the clip, like in the movie version. The extended bit runs through the top part of the longshot front gun that I repositioned to the bottom of the launcher. I just had to cut a small notch into the front, bottom corner of the recon to fit the trigger in. It was a pretty tight fit to give it enough room to fit a finger in, and still have the travel to pull the trigger.
Hopefully some of that made sense
Nerfenstein
Well-Known Member
I can't believe the awesomeness of this.
*bows*
Amazing, I have no other words.
*bows*
Amazing, I have no other words.
Noeland
Master Member
I'd like to take a crack at it as well, even though I have 3 resin pulse rifle.
Like blade runner guns, for me, just can never have enough of those!!I've had hit or miss success with styrene builds and durability depending on the styrene itself, and the methods used to bind everything together. But overall I do like building with it.
Laser Brain
Sr Member
That is damn cool. Looks great.
Discovery: I ended up using .08 styrene...you need the larger sheets too, so you can do the longer parts without having any seams...I think they were 21" by 8" or something like that. It took almost 4 full sheets to get everything done (although I might have been a bit wasteful at the start).
Got to finish some real life work first, but will try to tackle the templates next week. Looking at what I have, you will need to eyeball the holes in the upper shroud and some of the tapered bits at the front of the clip by yourselves. Don't think i have the template for the extended trigger piece either, so that will take a bit of measuring and adjusting to get right.
For construction, I used Tamiya cement for the initial joint, then dumped hot glue all inside the shroud to make it solid. The Tamiya doesn't stick all that well by itself, but it lets you create a nice smooth joint until you can reinforce it. I'm sure there are better glue options out there though, from people with far more modelling experience than I have
Got to finish some real life work first, but will try to tackle the templates next week. Looking at what I have, you will need to eyeball the holes in the upper shroud and some of the tapered bits at the front of the clip by yourselves. Don't think i have the template for the extended trigger piece either, so that will take a bit of measuring and adjusting to get right.
For construction, I used Tamiya cement for the initial joint, then dumped hot glue all inside the shroud to make it solid. The Tamiya doesn't stick all that well by itself, but it lets you create a nice smooth joint until you can reinforce it. I'm sure there are better glue options out there though, from people with far more modelling experience than I have
Gigatron
Sr Member
First off - awesome build :thumbsup. I just finished rebuilding and upgrading a and old MiM resin PR kit, myself, so I know the joy and sorrow that this build can bring, :lol.
For those working in styrene, try Ambroid pro-weld (or Same Stuff, from Miromark.com). Tamiya cement is great for model kits, but pro-weld is much hotter and will give you a better bond on big seams. If you're going to be doing a lot of gluing, check out hardware stores for MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone - less expensive than pro-weld, but the same exact stuff).
-Fred
For construction, I used Tamiya cement for the initial joint, then dumped hot glue all inside the shroud to make it solid. The Tamiya doesn't stick all that well by itself, but it lets you create a nice smooth joint until you can reinforce it. I'm sure there are better glue options out there though, from people with far more modelling experience than I have
For those working in styrene, try Ambroid pro-weld (or Same Stuff, from Miromark.com). Tamiya cement is great for model kits, but pro-weld is much hotter and will give you a better bond on big seams. If you're going to be doing a lot of gluing, check out hardware stores for MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone - less expensive than pro-weld, but the same exact stuff).
-Fred
PHArchivist
Master Member
One of the coolest things I've seen here in a long time!
shanes4doorsi
New Member
templates would be great nice job
