NIKE MAG Knockoffs

These don't look too hard to mod. The second pair down seems to be the most accurate too.To make the yellowish rubber parts more accurate, just order some translucent rubber sheets, use a razor blade to cut the originals off the shoes, use them as a pattern for the sheets and put them back on the shoe. You may have to layer the sheets if they're too thin. And to make the rubber sheets a light tint of blue, just use some light blue spray paint and mist it over them. Not really close or direct. And if you want to add the squares, just use the razor blade again. Cut the lines, then pull the sheet a bit so the rubber tears, and I use the word "tears" very lightly. Just enough so there are gaps between the squares. This won't be entirely accurate, but it's an easy way to get it to look good enough.
 
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Awesome little review mate. Glad everything went alright with the order. Ive emailed them the other day and will be ordering mine on saturday. Just hope I dont get it with customs fees:confused

My only dilemma is which color to go for, I know these aren't accurate, but the closest one to the real ones out of their choices is the one you purchased. But Im really considering going for the white on black pair. My plan is to actually wear these till they start to fall apart, and im thinking bright silver shoes are a bit much lol. Then I'll order another pair and use the old pair as a donor kit to make a more accurate set.

Thats the plan anyway... :confused

You should go for the silver ones with the yellowish rubber. They're the most accurate ones. The real Mags aren't white and it would be difficult to paint the shoe.
 
The good news in my research so far: there are clear hot glues with softening points above the temperature of some of the hottest measured temperatures for concrete. (and even most normal high temps for asphalt)

That was my first concern. I'd hate to walk outside on a hot summer day and have the soles of my shoes literally melt to the pavement.
 
These don't look too hard to mod. The second pair down seems to be the most accurate too.To make the yellowish rubber parts more accurate, just order some translucent rubber sheets, use a razor blade to cut the originals off the shoes, use them as a pattern for the sheets and put them back on the shoe. You may have to layer the sheets if they're too thin. And to make the rubber sheets a light tint of blue, just use some light blue spray paint and mist it over them. Not really close or direct. And if you want to add the squares, just use the razor blade again. Cut the lines, then pull the sheet a bit so the rubber tears, and I use the word "tears" very lightly. Just enough so there are gaps between the squares. This won't be entirely accurate, but it's an easy way to get it to look good enough.

hi, do you mean cut out the entire yellow part of the sole? ive ordered a pair, so wondering how hard it will be to rip out the entire bit. or are you meaning slice of a layer of the sole?

also, whch translucent rubber sheets do you recommend and where to get them from? any links?
 
hi, do you mean cut out the entire yellow part of the sole? ive ordered a pair, so wondering how hard it will be to rip out the entire bit. or are you meaning slice of a layer of the sole?

also, whch translucent rubber sheets do you recommend and where to get them from? any links?

It takes some work, but you can cut all of the yellow rubber out. And yes I meant doing that. And you can get the sheets from Sears.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

I couldn't find any transparent sheets, but you can order transparent silicone to pour into molds. Which brings me to a second method I figured out. You take some air drying clay, make a slap about 3/4 inch thick, and a good size to match the size of the shoe's soles. You can make it one big piece to fit both left and right, or into two piece if you want. And push the original rubber from the shoes into the clay to the thickness of the rubber. Make sure you flatten the sole out. Then let the clay dry. And once it's dry you can pour some transparent silicone into the mold. But apply some releasing agent on the clay before you pour. You don't want the rubber to stick to the clay and waste valuable material. Here is a link to buy the clear silicone.

Encapso K® Water Clear Rubber Product Information | Smooth-On

And if you want translucent liquid silicone for the mold, here's the link.

SORTA-Clear® 18 & 40 Silicone Product Information | Smooth-On

I hope my suggestions help you :)
 
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Would the silicone be durable enough for the bottom of a shoe though?

I wouldn't wear them every day, or play sports in them but them should hold up for a fair amount of time. These were just thoughts. I am in no way an expert on this.
 
Never mind. The clear silicone would just crumble. But if you only want the shoes to be display I guess it would be alright.
 
I can't find any high strength clear silicone, but the translucent liquid silicone is. The only problem is that it's kind of expensive. $38 for the cheapest size.
 
A pair of these and that silicone is still cheaper than Markpoon's shoddy, tiny shoes, though. I probably wouldn't wear them all the time, but I'd want to be able to walk around in them a bit and not have to be SUPER careful if I decided to wear them.
 
Well, it'll be a while, but next time I go in to Reynolds Advanced Materials up in Hollywood I'll ask them if they sell a sample kits of that stuff like they have for most of their other products.
 
Just had notification that mine have shipped, so hoping they should be here next week. As for the clear sole, do you think those kit pieces that fella is doing in the junkyard will fit these? I know he's doing the clear section and the plastic part on the strap.
 
:thumbsdown
I really doubt it. His clear sections will be extremely accurately shaped to the "real" shoes. 3D printed from a computer model.


Yes, is the most accurate option:3D printing.:)
soles and midsoles of my McFlys replicas was made by 3D printing.
You can see the process of:
http://www.therpf.com/f9/my-nike-mag-modelkit-cloneprops-140997/

For the shore A95 I think that is a bad idea, I tested all compounds and Shore A95 I think is so hard.:facepalm

you can see that compound of my project at shoreA 30-40(I add a little blue color to the transparent compound like original mags:
Untitled on Vimeo


The problem of that materials is the difficult handle, too expensive, and the toxicity.Its important to made a safe mold and made all in a ventilated room, of course with mask.If you fail in the proportions(must be EXACTLY) the piece becomes Hard like a rock¡¡¡¡.:cry

Maybe Another option less expensive is that:

http://www.brickintheyard.com/documents/datasheets/glassrub_ds.pdf

the problem: in two o three years would be yellownish."read the tech paper.":thumbsdown
 
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Thanks for the great info! That will definitely be a big help.

I guess all of us who can't afford your incredible kits will just have to keep experimenting until we find something close enough.

Keep up the awesome work, CloneProps, your work is a BIG inspiration of mine.

-Nick
 
That glassrub doesn't sound bad. It says if you add a tiny amount of pigment it won't yellow. And even if it does, 3 years is a pretty decent amount of time, and following the clay method casting up another pair every 3 years wouldn't be very hard.
 
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