Metal Movie Cap Shield on a budget **DONE!! FINAL PICS ON PAGE 4

I have 2 questions about the first step.

-What did you use to strip the pain off cleanly?

-What tool did you use to cut the edge/rim off of the outside?

Looks drop dead gorgeous.
 
Not sure what Valor used, but to strip mine I used a spray called Tal-Strip by Mar-Hyde. Within about 5 minutes, the paint was bubbled up and I simply wiped it off.

As for cutting the edge off, I used a fine-tooth metal blade in my jigsaw. I scribed a line around the sled with my metal caliper. Make sure to wear ear protection when cutting. :)

Here's a pic of mine after having Mr. Stan Lee sign it in STL last weekend.

901371_10151522537027446_618116748_o.jpg
 
Citrus-based paint stripper. Don't remember the brand.

And I cut the edge with a fine-tooth blade on a JigSaw. Put masking tape all around the surface for the jigsaw to ride on or you'll scrape it up.

Good luck.
 
I plan on starting mine next week...I'm doing two at once. I have one question, though---If I wait 4-5 days between painting the blue and the red, should I remove all the tape after the blue and then retape when info the red? Or is it ok to leave the tape on for a few days if I use acetone prior to painting the red in order to get off any adhesive? I bought the green tape designed to leave "no residue" on metal.

I have both sleds cut. I plan on stripping with Klean-Strip Aircraft Stripper, then sanding with a fine sandpaper using Valor's method to get the brushed look, perhaps followed by steel wool (?). Then I'm going to use JB Weld to affix my T-nuts (I'm using a different bracket approach that will be more like this replica: Captain America Replica Shield Review - YouTube . It won't be screen accurate, but it'll be functional , plus these will be meant for hanging). Then, I plan on taping, using acetone on each untaped part, then using Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter & the Duplicolor Metalcast paints (one wet, but not heavy, coat), followed by Krylon Crystal Clear.

I'm going to shape the star with tape & paint blue around it, due to lack of resources to create my own & lack of funds to buy some (got a quote of $45/star, which is very reasonable but not as feasible with my budget given the fact that I'm making two shields right off the bat).

Sound alright?
 
Re: Metal Movie Cap Shield on a budget

Valor said:
Why not rivet the star to the front?? Well .... um .... hey. that's a pretty good idea. If the glue fails, I just might do that.

In the mean time, I completed the back brackets (what are these things really called) by adding all the tiny rivets around the perimeter. Actually they are small metal brads I found at the hardware store that I cut down and super glued in place.

I also wanted to show the final clearcoated finish. Probably doesn't look too different from the previous un-clearcoated pics, but it FEELS different. Silky smooth, you can hardly feel the transition from stripe to stripe.

The leather is on order, so I'm on hold until it arrives.
Click to expand...

How did you cut the small metal brads down?
 
a quick question on the cutting process, please.

How badly did the metal shred? Did the masking tape help contain that? You mention it was "messy" but I'm wondering how bad that will be. Also, as I haven't ordered the sled yet, I don't know about the pliability of it. How did you hold it while cutting without accidentally denting it?

Looks terrific.

Mark
 
Instead of using a stripping pad to create the brushed metal "spun" effect, what kind of grit sandpaper could i use? also, how did you cut the brackets that are connected to the straps?... The shield is so awesome that Im going to attempt to make my own
 
I would use a 150 or 250 for the spun effect. wet sanding can begin around 500 grit and move up from there.
 
Spidey1016 said:
Instead of using a stripping pad to create the brushed metal "spun" effect, what kind of grit sandpaper could i use? also, how did you cut the brackets that are connected to the straps?... The shield is so awesome that Im going to attempt to make my own
Click to expand...

Unless Im mistaken you will want to use both the sandpaper and stripping pad to complete the effect. The sandpaper to create the spun impressions and then the stripping pad to brighten up the metal and smooth out the spun markings that the sandpaper made. The steel is a very dark grey once you strip the paint off. The stripping pads will brighten them up and make it look more like spun aluminum.
 
So i just got my sled in today, the exact same one valor used. cutting it was so easy, except for the blade on the jigsaw occasionally breaking... the paint stripper i used was old and didn't work very well so i went to home depot to get a new jug... that one was maximum strength and didn't work much better than the old one :facepalm while i left it outside soaking in paint stripper a stupid frog jumped into the concave sheild and proceeded to die (i guess from the chemicals). after removing the dead amphibian, my friend and i spent about an hour and a half scraping the paint off with putty knives after spaying it with stripper and acetone again.
 
Spidey1016 said:
So i just got my sled in today, the exact same one valor used. cutting it was so easy, except for the blade on the jigsaw occasionally breaking... the paint stripper i used was old and didn't work very well so i went to home depot to get a new jug... that one was maximum strength and didn't work much better than the old one :facepalm while i left it outside soaking in paint stripper a stupid frog jumped into the concave sheild and proceeded to die (i guess from the chemicals). after removing the dead amphibian, my friend and i spent about an hour and a half scraping the paint off with putty knives after spaying it with stripper and acetone again.
Click to expand...

RIP Froggie :cry Were you able to get the paint off? The paint stripper Valor used and recommended to me is called Citristrip which is more a paste that you paint on and let sit. It penetrates and softens the paint into what I can only describe as a "melted crayon" substance. Can get it at Lowe's / Home Depot.
 
drakeprimeone said:
RIP Froggie :cry Were you able to get the paint off? The paint stripper Valor used and recommended to me is called Citristrip which is more a paste that you paint on and let sit. It penetrates and softens the paint into what I can only describe as a "melted crayon" substance. Can get it at Lowe's / Home Depot.
Click to expand...

Yeah i got all the paint off, I also sanded it to make the spun effect with 80, 100 then 220 git. The thing is down here in south FL its extremely humid, which i think was causing my shield to oxidize like every few hours -__- i used rust remover whenever it would happen. I just now masked it and painted it red.
 
Im so irritated, i finished painting the blue circle in the middle, and when i peeled off the masking it took two little paint chips with it. Patching it with metalcast paint doesn't work so i just tried to hide it with sharpie. It isnt noticeable from far away... maybe ill cover it with battle damage when im done
 
Spidey1016 said:
Im so irritated, i finished painting the blue circle in the middle, and when i peeled off the masking it took two little paint chips with it. Patching it with metalcast paint doesn't work so i just tried to hide it with sharpie. It isnt noticeable from far away... maybe ill cover it with battle damage when im done
Click to expand...


Yeah the painting has to be fairly precise in your process. Its impossible to patch up bad spots. The steps I took to avoid that was
1. Tape up the whole shield with frog tape or painters blue tape (3M makes some specific for metal)
2. Cut away the inner circle for the blue painting
3. Let the blue sit 24 hours before attempting to cover it with the painters tape to avoid pulling up the paint
4. Cut away the red circles and paint
5. Let the Red sit 24 hours
6. Remove all tape
7. Attach Star
8. Clear Coat
 
Brilliant. Doing a step-by-step mock up of a shield build I am planning and was curious how I would accomplish the spun look after I planish the thing into shape. Thank you. I might have thought of this on my own but then.....maybe not. Thanks again. Great work.
 
As I am no expert, you can take this advice however you want, BUT, I have had paint peel and worse, become "orange peeled" after the recommended 24 hours, so now, if I'm not in a hurry and esp. depending on the weather/temps, etc. I wait as long as I can between coats.....at least two days. If you consider the investment in time and money that you already have in it, patience isn't just a virtue, it's the payoff.
 
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