ESB AT-ST Turkey Walker (Chicken to the talented)

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i've tried to snoop around other boards for a fix to this and nobody seems to have the correct answer. a lot of "home-brew" answers (e.g. print to .pdf, when using WINDOW to print-make a smaller window) -- but all have failed so far. as for when i have tried the .pdf backdoor fix...it only worsens the discrepancy.

i really want to apologize to everybody for this. as i said, i assumed the information was working properly and i didn't check along the way.

to persons that have the drawing in .dxf or .dwg, the file is still good. as allan and i've noted, the bugger happens when printing or exporting.

i have another project that this problem is affecting, so i'm going to continue to try to figure the solution. i've tried printing out at a large scale, measuring the discrepancy, then make a drawing that has been "artifically" enlarged for printing reasons only, but this is kinda like treating the symptom, and not the problem -- not good enough for me.

again, sorry...and i'll keep ya posted if i figure this out.
 
Thanks Allan! I found an extra .ve file with different measurements among my various attempts at printing and adding dimensions to the drawings....I'm assuming the correct drawings since each part is about 1/16" bigger than the .pdf and my .ve file. I'm not sure how I got these "correct" drawings into LM8. I can't remember if I dragged or copied/pasted directly from the .dwg file or an .ai file I exported from CAD.

I went ahead and printed to a plotter. Allan or Q, can I trouble you for a few measurements? I don't have CAD on my current PC's to view the original dwg, but I'd like to check the print for accuracy so I can continue to lay the donor parts over. If I can get the horizontal and vertical for part #8 (the view shown in my last post), I would really appreciate it!

Joe
 
Ok, it looks like I just confused the s##t out of myself!. I couldn't wait so I went and got the install disk and loaded up AutoCAD to check the dimensions. The original .dwg file matches my .ve file and all the "wrong" .pdf files I have. So, now the question is....is my plotter print correct? It's the only format I have that shows what I believed to be the correction to the 1/16" loss.

So...looking at Part #8 for reference....

Plotter print: 4.94" or 4 15/16" or 125.48mm

My .dwg, .ve and .pdf: 4.813" or 4 13/16" or 122.31mm

It looks like the plotter print part #8 is actually .127" longer, not .060 (roughly 1/16") like I thought. So I fudged up the print by printing it slightly larger or manipulating the file back when I was first starting off with this, I think. All the other files match the original .dwg I was sent so I'm going to assume that I was working with the correct measurements the whole time and that my added dimensions are good. Which would be great news concerning the pours I already made.

Allan, Q, your input would still be appreciated. I'd still like to compare my measurements to what your files show. Sorry for all my mess in Guy's thread!!!!!! I'm just on the quest for an accurate AT-ST!

Now to go dig all those paper cutouts out of my shop trash can! Doh!!!!

Joe
 
Hey Joe, I don't have the drawing files at home. And, I've since switched to a Mac since working with Quincy. Might take some doing to get the dims you're after. I probably still have them on a spare machine, but I'll need to pull it and get it back on the network, etc.
 
I'm really starting to feel very ignorant when it comes to these files, glad you lot are on the ball. I think I'm still in the stone age when it comes to this kind of stuff.
 
I use a this Cad program:

CadStd - Cad Standard Lite freeware and inexpensive Pro software.

I had a lab in college where we had to use AutoCAD. I HATED it. The drawings we were assigned would have taken me 15 minutes to draw with a T square, triangles and pencil. They took most of us the full 2 hour lab time to draw in AutoCAD...of course some actual instruction may have helped.

I figured out how to do everything I have wanted in Cad Standard in less than an hour. There is a free version, but it does not have some key features of the full version. After about an hour of playing with it I decided the Pro version was worth way more than the $37.50 price tag.

I have used it to have some parts laser cut. I exported to PDF (which Cad Standard supports, no Acrobat needed) and then importeded into Illustrator (.ai) so the laser cutter could import into Corel Draw. At least that is what the he told me...he needed a vector file, specifically .ai if I did not have Corel Draw. My parts came out very nice and to my dimensions.

I would suggest everyone give the free version a try. The price is very right.
 
Guy,
Here are some early placement checks as promised. I haven't modified any of the parts so I am eying the flatter parts. So far everything looks dead-on. In the second pic...the size of the armature part the C600 part sits matches the ref pics very, very closely.

IMG702.jpg


IMG700.jpg



I also have a few questions about some parts. Allan, sorry bud, I had to use some of your pics. Can someone please tell me what parts A & B are. I'm sure A (the tiny parts on the 312T part) comes from a Bandai kit, just not sure which one it is. And I know B is sheet styrene with a wheel part(?). I thought it was a wheel part from the C600 as the 8rad part fits in it but the lip at the bottom is non-existent in the ref photos.

esbatst71o.jpg


And next, Allan or anyone else who has built this. Is the Gepard underneath the Croc part from a vintage kit? Mine from #35099 look like the 2nd pic but Allan's here and the original both have an opening. I can chop the protruding piece to achieve the same result. Did you do the same?

esbatst70o.jpg


gep.jpg


Joe
 
joewhite said:
I also have a few questions about some parts. Allan, sorry bud, I had to use some of your pics. Can someone please tell me what parts A & B are. I'm sure A (the tiny parts on the 312T part) comes from a Bandai kit, just not sure which one it is. And I know B is sheet styrene with a wheel part(?). I thought it was a wheel part from the C600 as the 8rad part fits in it but the lip at the bottom is non-existent in the ref photos.

esbatst71o.jpg


And next, Allan or anyone else who has built this. Is the Gepard underneath the Croc part from a vintage kit? Mine from #35099 look like the 2nd pic but Allan's here and the original both have an opening. I can chop the protruding piece to achieve the same result. Did you do the same?

esbatst70o.jpg


gep.jpg


Joe
Click to expand...


A : Tamiya Matilda
B : Dont know what he used
Gepard part : it's chopped on the studio model, it's not a vintage kit.
They not only chopped the raised part but they also enlarged the hole for some reason which I did recreate on my model :

http://www.therpf.com/f10/studio-scale-stop-mo-tesb-st-74608/#post1047134
 
The donor parts that comprise that particular "hip" have never been identified correctly, to my knowledge. I built that model years ago, and I honestly don't remember what I used. But, suffice to say, it doesn't matter because...it was wrong! :lol
 
imaginager said:
The donor parts that comprise that particular "hip" have never been identified correctly, to my knowledge. I built that model years ago, and I honestly don't remember what I used. But, suffice to say, it doesn't matter because...it was wrong! :lol
Click to expand...

I chased this piece once. The similarities the piece has to a piece in the airfix harrow kit (holds the front wheels) kept me awake at night -- approximate size, holes, posts. But the trail went cold from my looking.

Just an FYI if anybody else wants to take a stab at it.
 
Hmmm....the flat part something like the Tahio part on the left cheek gun...even in size. Using photoshop to brighten things up, it also looks symmetrical. I've already looked though the usual ship suspects but couldn't find anything solid. I think the vintage Shinano had something close but not definite.

As for the cylinder on top of the flat part....I know the 8Rad part fits perfectly in the C600. Thing is, most of the 1/25th rigs have a lip at the base. Another detail I noticed is that the cylinder on the AT-ST has a rounded, tapered inside edge so I thihnk we can rule out raw styrene tubing.

Also, I see everybody has been using the Fruehauf part on the front part of the upper leg (on the Karl part). However, the tiny details do not match. I have the CCR Transport re-issue which also does not match. Is this another one of the non-id'd parts...or possibly from one of the dozens of re-issues?

Same thing goes for the Titan 90 suspension cross. I'd like to warn anybody striving for uber accuracy. The latest Titan re-issue has a retooled cross. Gone is the dimple imperfection in the center, the new tool has corrected detail in place. I've scanned several trucks, including the vintage 90, but cannot find a clear shot of the cross. Sadly :(, also, StudioScaleModeler.com has been down for maintenance so I can't check the scans for other trucks. Anybody know where I can get the accurate cross from?

And finally....what is that underneath the 312B spoiler part on the leg? I thought I remembered someone mentioning it was also a modified Karl part.

Sorry for all the ?'s....but hopefully they'll also help ya out on your build Guy.

Joe
 
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Quincy, are you talking about the small part underneath the Nebelwerfer arm...towards the back of the upper leg? If so, I also don't know where it is from but I think I notice what appears to be weld lines on the flat edge opposite the hole.

Joe
 
joewhite said:
Also, I see everybody has been using the Fruehauf part on the front part of the upper leg (on the Karl part). However, the tiny details do not match. I have the CCR Transport re-issue which also does not match. Is this another one of the non-id'd parts...or possibly from one of the dozens of re-issues?
Click to expand...

Joe, the part in my flatbed kit was a perfect match, do you have a pic of your part ?
 
joewhite said:
Quincy, are you talking about the small part underneath the Nebelwerfer arm...towards the back of the upper leg? If so, I also don't know where it is from but I think I notice what appears to be weld lines on the flat edge opposite the hole.

Joe
Click to expand...

Joe, i was speaking of the part on the inner right thigh.
 
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