Making a Frock Coat - my progress

Sulla

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I am making a khaki frock coat for a steampunk costume and though this thread started out as a construction question, I have decided to turn it into a build thread.

See post #8 for first pictures of my frock coat.


Original question: I am making a frock coat with full lining. Almost all the seams will be hidden between the garment shell and the lining. Should I serge all my edges or can I get away with a simple zig-zag stitch or no interlocking at all?

This will be a costume coat, but I don't want it to look costume grade wear.
 
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Re: Serging question

Frock coat, nice choice! I personally like to finish all of my edges to prevent any chance of fraying however small. It doesn't take too much time and it definitely gives a professionalism to the piece that you're building. Proessional costume builders will often serge their seams with extra allowance in case of having to alter the costume in future.However, the zig-zag stitch is fairly reliable, and as I assume you're working with natural materials like cotton, wool, linen, etc., there's not much chance that the threads will pull through.

I think it all depends if you want to take the extra 2 minutes at the end of a seam to serge each side (which adds up all together), but I personally would finish it with serging or even pinking.

Good luck! :)
 
Re: Serging question

I would if I had a serger, it's worth the extra few minutes, if not though a wide tight zig zag is pretty decent.
 
Re: Serging question

Thanks for the advice.

I have a serger and am using 100% cotton twill for the shell, but the lining will be polyester on this version of the coat.
 
Re: Serging question

As a custom bespoke tailor, I would highly recommend that you do not use a serger.

While I appreciate what the others are saying, serging the edges creates a greater thickness on the edge. Then when you press the coat, those edges can create an unwanted edge on the other side. So say if you press from the top, there will be a slight ledge at the seam allowance.

I have made many, many frock coats for reenactors and have never serged a seam inside.

Also, since no one will see them, and they don't come in contact with anything, they should be fine.

I do run a straight stitch around the edges of all pieces just so that they hold there shape and don't stretch while you are working with them. I find that the more precision in the pieces, the better/faster it goes together.

Good Luck!
 
Re: Serging question

Thanks all. I actually got the same advice from some tailors on a few other forums. Some suggested a simple hand finishing stitch, a zigzag stitch or no serging/stitching at all (that got the most votes) except for the necessary stay stitching at the arms and neck.

Thanks for the advice everyone! Sewing begins today. I have all the shell, lining, and interfacing pieces cut and tacked.

And my thanks to you Light_Knight. Happy do something other than lurk.
 
Re: Serging question

Started my frock coat yesterday. Got the main body shell done. The collar and sleeves are next, then on to the lining.

I still need to press some of those seams (Especially in the back), but I am pleased so far. Sorry about the picture quality. I snapped a few shots this morning with my phone before I left for work. I'll take better shots with my Nikon next time.

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Re: Serging question

Very nice. Is it single or double breasted? If double, what pattern are you using?
 
Is that a male sewing form you are using? if so do you know where can you find them with chests up to 46" google kills me with the results i get.
 
That is a male sewing form. It is this male writing a reply. :p I made it using brown packing tape. It's not flattering at all, but it sure is useful. you can make your own too so long as you have a buddy to help using this great Threadbangers tutorial.

My wife wrapped me up while my two-year-old had a blast watching daddy get turned into a giant pinata.
 
nicely done sir! I have a duct tape manna-me, just looking for an adjustable male form so I can do some work for others.
 
Ah yes, the duct tape mannequin. Mine was taking up too much room, so I just de-boned it today and in a week or two I'll be throwing it over a cliff for a stunt shot in a promo film.
 
Got the under collar, sleeves, sleeve heading, and shoulder pads done. In other words the outer shell is done. I have started work on the lining. The pics make it look a little too wrinkly for my taste which is just a draping issue on my dress form, and there are a few imperfections, but I am pleased for my first home-made frock coat.

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OK, got the lining in as well as some of the pressing and top stitching finished. I still need to hem the sleeves and bottom of the coat, top stitch and finish press the front opening, and add the buttons.

I took some images of the lining and lined pockets.

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I found this tutorial quite helpful, although I wish there were more progress photos:)

- - - Updated - - -

p.s. I am having a little trouble with the collar... :(
 
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