Making wood look like metal?

Matches Malone

New Member
Does anyone have any recommendations on how to make wood look like it has a metal finish? Specifically, looking like the metal finish of a black or dark gray gun? If there is already a thread about this, would someone mind pointing me in the right direction? Thanks in advance. :)
 
This is more prep related. Also apologies, if this info is common knowledge, but it was news to me when building guitars. Certain woods need sanding sealers and grain fillers if you are going to hide the wood grain for a smooth factory finish. Which I think you will need going for a metal finish. If you want more info, pm me and I'll shoot you some info.
 
This is more prep related. Also apologies, if this info is common knowledge, but it was news to me when building guitars. Certain woods need sanding sealers and grain fillers if you are going to hide the wood grain for a smooth factory finish. Which I think you will need going for a metal finish. If you want more info, pm me and I'll shoot you some info.

Awesome, and yes, definitely interested. Feel free to share it on this post if that's okay, a PM works as well. Looks like Jannix Quinn is interested too. Looking forward to it.
 
There was just a thread about this the other day

http://www.therpf.com/f9/help-making-toy-gun-look-realistic-116935/?highlight=graphite

As darth_myeek said it's all about prep when you are working with wood, I'm a firm believer in multiple coats of good old shellac, but other sanding sealers like clear lacquer work also...

It goes something like this.... Sand wood with say 100 grit until smooth, coat with shellac, sand with 150 grit until smooth, coat with shellac, sand with 200 grit until smooth, coat with shellac, sand with 400 grit until smooth... Apply first coat of paint, WET sand with 600 grit until smooth, apply topcoat of paint...

Now since you are after a 'gun metal' look, I will chime in that the graphite technique in the above linked thread by BrundelFly works very well... For paint I use a very low luster back or even a flat black, I have found BBQ black paint works well, and if you want you can even very lightly wet sand the topcoat of paint in an organized direction to add subtle metal like machining marks before you scrub and buff with graphite...
 
Could you post it here? I'm interested too.


Video on grain filler. If you can get beyond the guy's voice neutrality issues, it's a good video. Grain filler when stirred by drill, has the consistency of pudding. A squeegee is used to card the filler in at a 45 degree angle to your grain. When it sets to a hazy state, use fresh burlap to "pick up" the excess grain filler. Grain filling two to three times will level the surface and in the end save you in clearcoats & sanding time. It also deals with end grain. One thing to note, grain filler is soft. If you tape off a spot that's been grain filled, the tape will lift grain filler.

Funny I found a decent article on sanding sealer in your neck of the woods JQ!
Sanding sealer

Here is a NSFW video of a guy sanding out sanding sealer on a Tele body. The video is a bit dry, but if you can make it through, you'll get a practical feeling for the process. He's absolutely right about moisture and hairline cracks.
 
Sexellent. I want to make a Warhammer bolter from MDF, but I've never done anything like it, have no tools, knowledge or talent.

I just need to bite the bullet and go buy some crap to do it.
 
Im a painting teacher/ signwriter,
and I do stuff like this often
My advise would be get your piece of wood first sell it with an acrylic seller/primer, under coat, sand once cured ,paint againg in acrylic undercoat
sand back to a smooth finish , By this stage the pours in the wood will be some what full and the porousness sadicfied , then coat in (now this deepends weather you willl be finishing in acylics or enamels) enamels for enamels , acrylis for acrylics, , so coat in under coat suitable to finish,
sand back using fin grade paper, then use a filling compund suitable for you wood , either 2 part epoxy or a plaster style filler , epoxy is bext is you arnt familliar with the materials,
once filler is dry sand back to desierd smoothness, you may need to reaply the filler depending on your first go,
once sanded smooth paint in a suitable under coat , then start on you disiers finish, ,

Sorry about speeling but I hope that helps, also dont use wood putty as most are made with linsead oil and will blead
hope that helps some what
 
Not particually

How ever my method is for wood, like actual wood not recon fiberboard
I dont reallly consider MDF wood
but juist use enamel instead and itl be fine
 
You can't. Not without an unnecessary amount of work. The grain is a ***** to hide. Go with MDF instead, it can be sanded as smooth as glass.
 
You can't. Not without an unnecessary amount of work. The grain is a ***** to hide.

I can't say I agree based on my experience, 2-3 coats of shellac will fill and hide 90%+ of the grain even in an open grain wood like oak and it only takes a few hours time...

I have zero issues totally hiding grain on closed grain woods like pine, popular or bass wood, I can get a glass like finish after 2-3 coats of shellac with honestly minimal work and in only one evenings time...

Shellac or clear lacquer also works excellent on MDF, both on smooth surface and 'end' grain as well...
 
You can't. Not without an unnecessary amount of work. The grain is a ***** to hide. Go with MDF instead, it can be sanded as smooth as glass.

It depends on what your making ,
But like I said I am a painting and decorating trade teacher
and also a trained sign writer, so I do know what Im talking about

And I personally stay away from MDMF the stuff is poison

and shelack is the best of all the above, there is a product call Zinzer (may not be correct spelling) B,I,N primer, this is a shelack based primer if you can get it use it, it comes in either spray can or normal paint cans, best product for selling over any thing
 
This thread is more than 12 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top