fraley1701
Active Member
Alex Ross painted the picture for the box art. And yes, I love it!
1/350 TOS E is happening.
- Thread starter CessnaDriver
- Start date
Alex Ross painted the picture for the box art. And yes, I love it!
NICE! Was just reading "Kingdom Come" the other day. Big fan of his work.
Thanks so much for all the photos and info, now very, very eager to get one of these!
Thanks so much for all the photos and info, now very, very eager to get one of these!
division 6
Master Member
IIRC Stuzan retired a few years ago,.
Eric Ardros
Sr Member
I just got around to trimming off the excess sprue material from the main parts (secondary hull, nacelles, etc.) and properly dry-fitted it all last night. I gotta say, this kit really goes together nicely.
One thing I found regarding the clear bussard ramscoop domes, though. Not on both, but just one, there appears to be some sort of visual flaw within the plastic. For lack of a better word, all I can think of to call it is a "distortion" of some sort.
To describe it, it looks like the rainbow effect you see in water when mixed with gasoline (or is it oil?), but minus the colouration. If that makes any sense.
I tried removing it both on the inside and out, but it refuses to go away. The thing is, the flaw is on the top side of the dome facing toward the inside of the nacelle, so it's pretty noticeable. If it was on the bottom of the dome, not as big a deal, but that's not the case.
Anyone have any suggestions? I'm at a loss here :confused
One thing I found regarding the clear bussard ramscoop domes, though. Not on both, but just one, there appears to be some sort of visual flaw within the plastic. For lack of a better word, all I can think of to call it is a "distortion" of some sort.
To describe it, it looks like the rainbow effect you see in water when mixed with gasoline (or is it oil?), but minus the colouration. If that makes any sense.
I tried removing it both on the inside and out, but it refuses to go away. The thing is, the flaw is on the top side of the dome facing toward the inside of the nacelle, so it's pretty noticeable. If it was on the bottom of the dome, not as big a deal, but that's not the case.
Anyone have any suggestions? I'm at a loss here :confused
Eric Ardros
Sr Member
I forgot that the nacelle domes are supposed to be rubbed with steel wool inside and out so they're opaque. Once that's been done, you shouldn't be able to see the flaw anymore. Never mind then, lol.
Aztek Dummy
Well-Known Member
The great 3 hole fix of 2012
Hey gang
when they said it was a easy fix, they were right!
even a hamfisted goon such as myself was able to make this change in a few minutes
first, take some sprue that's a little too big around and dremel it down to jam in the old "wrong" holes.
cut flush to the outside with an xacto.
smear glue over the nubs from the inside.
take my handy-dandy new 3-hole template and position it on the other side of the grid line
mark the center of the new holes and drill. start with a tiny bit and work your way up to the finished size. A round file comes in very handy for this
check your progress with the 3 window insert. it overlaps one of the hole closing nubs, so you'll need to cut that one flush on the inside, too.
Voila! or as the french say...There you go!
Hey gang
when they said it was a easy fix, they were right!
even a hamfisted goon such as myself was able to make this change in a few minutes
first, take some sprue that's a little too big around and dremel it down to jam in the old "wrong" holes.
cut flush to the outside with an xacto.
smear glue over the nubs from the inside.
take my handy-dandy new 3-hole template and position it on the other side of the grid line
mark the center of the new holes and drill. start with a tiny bit and work your way up to the finished size. A round file comes in very handy for this
check your progress with the 3 window insert. it overlaps one of the hole closing nubs, so you'll need to cut that one flush on the inside, too.
Voila! or as the french say...There you go!
opal1970
Well-Known Member
I also got the mail about the next round orders. I think I will get a couple more just for good measure. I really envy the guy or gal that gets the 1701th kit.
My premiere Edition kit now has the Status "shipped", I havent been this excited since I do not know how Long. I love the refit for her graceful look, but this is the one that I grew up with and will always have a Special place. *sniff*
PS Thank you Gary for all the beautiful pics and resources. It will all be put to good use.
My premiere Edition kit now has the Status "shipped", I havent been this excited since I do not know how Long. I love the refit for her graceful look, but this is the one that I grew up with and will always have a Special place. *sniff*
PS Thank you Gary for all the beautiful pics and resources. It will all be put to good use.
Grrr... I found another minor correction that needs to be made. For some reason the factory made both hatches on the B/C deck (aft of the bridge) too short. Fred Barr's decals are perfect, though. Here's a graphic that shows the proper size & shape of the hatches. Dimensions are measured along the curve of the B/C deck.
Gary
[/QUOTE]
Gary
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Jerry Lee Kirk
Member
Mr Kerr, would you allow me to ask one little thing?
Is the whole 1/350 tos kit entirelly based in you upgraded plans?
Is the CGI drawing for the decal set locations a representation of your plans ?
Is the whole 1/350 tos kit entirelly based in you upgraded plans?
Is the CGI drawing for the decal set locations a representation of your plans ?
[/QUOTE]Grrr... I found another minor correction that needs to be made. For some reason the factory made both hatches on the B/C deck (aft of the bridge) too short. Fred Barr's decals are perfect, though. Here's a graphic that shows the proper size & shape of the hatches. Dimensions are measured along the curve of the B/C deck.
Gary
Jerry Lee Kirk
Member
Couldn't be the "blue neck" a light reflex of the blue screen ?
Many original FX shots of Enterpise have blu reflex in many parts, some more and some less, accordinf the angle in relation to the camera and the bluew screen. Also some few blue reflex in the corners of saucer section, and in the shadow areas of the lower portion of saucer section.
See this "blue neck" effect in second pilot version from blue screen shooting:
http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/STEnterprise/ent26.jpg
Many original FX shots of Enterpise have blu reflex in many parts, some more and some less, accordinf the angle in relation to the camera and the bluew screen. Also some few blue reflex in the corners of saucer section, and in the shadow areas of the lower portion of saucer section.
See this "blue neck" effect in second pilot version from blue screen shooting:
http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/STEnterprise/ent26.jpg
Clear shots of that area of the ship are scarcer than hens' teeth. Rather than search through my files all day, here's a cap of the 3-footer from "The Cage", which clearly shows the 3 portholes. You can also plainly see the "white" Pilot version impulse deck and blue "neck". I'll keep looking through my sources...
Gary
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The decals and the external design of the kit are based on my upgraded plans, while the interior structure is a combined effort of the factory in China, Jamie Hood, Mike Anderson, and Jim Small.
Gary
Jerry Lee Kirk
Member
Now I supose people will scan and overlay to the Sinclair plans, to get the right extructure measurement, right curves to soucer section etc...
What abou the irregularities inerent to the 60's limited building technics?
Not everytihng got very symetric, like the deep 3 circles of the lower saucer section in the 11 foot version:
I'm curious if any very fanatic fan would request to reproduce such small fail of symetry, or would be happy with a symetric version.
One last question:
If The Voyager studio model got scanned in a advanced 3D scanner, for a CGI rendering, why the 11 foot Enterprise can not be scanned?
Just small corrections would be made, for the mistakes of Smithsonian restoration.
What abou the irregularities inerent to the 60's limited building technics?
Not everytihng got very symetric, like the deep 3 circles of the lower saucer section in the 11 foot version:
I'm curious if any very fanatic fan would request to reproduce such small fail of symetry, or would be happy with a symetric version.
One last question:
If The Voyager studio model got scanned in a advanced 3D scanner, for a CGI rendering, why the 11 foot Enterprise can not be scanned?
Just small corrections would be made, for the mistakes of Smithsonian restoration.
Jerry Lee Kirk
Member
Looking to photos of the 11 foot (not pilot version) in original series, I think they used two white domes for the bridge. One closer to flat and other taller.
Maybe one got damaged during the FX shootings and was replaced by another.
here the "taller" white dome:
The next kit trying to be perfect, will need two domes...
Maybe one got damaged during the FX shootings and was replaced by another.
here the "taller" white dome:
The next kit trying to be perfect, will need two domes...
feek61
Sr Member
It couldn't be a reflection at least not in the first pilot because those shots were done with a black background; they did not use the blue screen technique until the second pilot.
The neck (to me) does not appear to be blue on the second pilot version.
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Jerry Lee Kirk
Member
Are you sure ?
The effects in The Cage look adequate, with star moving, and no tansparent portion on Enterprise.
Black background creates some transparency collateral effects. Even the black background using contrasting image version as mask.
The effects in The Cage look adequate, with star moving, and no tansparent portion on Enterprise.
Black background creates some transparency collateral effects. Even the black background using contrasting image version as mask.
That blue neck shows up on the right side too in the last flyby before credits. Odd thing is the blue doesn't go all the way to the eng. section and saucer. There is a bit of white still on the neck at the edges where it meets the saucer and eng. section on both sides of the neck.
In the case of the 1st Pilot version the neck had a metallic/glossy finish, and I think you're seeing reflections of the gray saucer & sec hull in the shiny neck (as in the first photo below). The neck on the 2nd Pilot version had a flat, powder-blue finish, and the reflections don't show up (see 2nd photo below).
Gary
