1/350 TOS E is happening.

As long as I can get what I think is a good screen appearance and matching
the studio model at that time.
That to me means pretty damn subtle such that from a distance they are not seen, and on the bottom of the saucer even more subtle then the top.

If I can achieve this I'll be fine with it.
 
dcarty said:
Essentially saying grow up so you can play with our toy. Gary has a bright future ahead of himself working for Netflix PR Dept.
Click to expand...
LOL, hey, maybe he's under pressures we don't know about. Give an artist a break. What they lack in social graces, they make up for in cool toys.:cool
 
Much as I'm in love with the *idea* of this kit, I really can't see myself doing anywhere as good a job on building/painting/lighting/decal-ing it as Master Replicas did. So, I'm happy to stick with that model. And there's no room in my house for 2 of the same thing at that size.
 
Chrisisall said:
LOL, hey, maybe he's under pressures we don't know about. Give an artist a break. What they lack in social graces, they make up for in cool toys.:cool
Click to expand...

Upon first reading, the column did irritate more people than just myself which is unfortunate given the extremely touchy nature of the particular issue. There is no doubt in my mind that the column did not quite come across as was intended (been there done that myself) so all is good.
 
I am fortunate enough to have a good paying job and was able to afford a Master Replicas. As good as it is there are issues with it that I would hve corrected... but I cna't bring myself to crack open that mode - especially since I don't know where all the seems are etc...

I'm looking that this model as a way to build it "perfect" to my taste.

As far as scribe lines around seems... its really pretty easy... run a tape line where its supposed to go and lightly scribe. or simply run the tape line and pencil it in... at 0.5mm it'll be practically indistinguishable from the pencil anyway... On a model that is essentially smooth this is easy peezy... its filling seems that has loads of complicated detail all around it that hurts my head :) But I do it anyway :D

I will buy this kit - probably a few and it will be built :D


Oh - I forgot - someone had mentioned that they wanted a model of the 11 footer, the 3 footer etc... I beleive they said that the special edition is going to inlude the options to build the pilot version the cage version and the production version... idealized of course but the basics are there. So if you really want that you're in luck :D

Jedi Dade
 
Last edited:
Proper said:
I see grid lines. It doesn't mean I'm crazy: http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpre...03/kg_star-trek_tos_1701_studio_model-001.jpg
Click to expand...


It's all about screen appearance vs studio model.

I think perhaps only a couple episodes could the grids be detected.

Maybe with blu ray now they show up more. Not sure.

There are tons of things you could omit for screen apperance only.
All those crazy geometric markings on the bottom of the secondary hull we never saw on screen even once.
 
Proper said:
I see grid lines. It doesn't mean I'm crazy: http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpre...03/kg_star-trek_tos_1701_studio_model-001.jpg
Click to expand...

Those are just drawn on with a drafting pencil. The whole uproar was because on the model coming out, they've been ever so slightly engraved in, thus making it not 100% accurate to the studio model...which half of the kit won't be anyway, so I have no idea why they're freaking out. This will still be the most accurate kit released to date.
 
The thing needs an aluminum armature. I kind of wish they would make the pilon parts just detail pieces that could be glued to an aluminum under structure. Of coarse this makes no sense for a model kit but i think i may try to do it. Sagging is unacceptable and i don't see how to prevent it with styrene parts. They will have to figure it out i guess. Kit looks good otherwise.
 
I'll wait until I have it in my hands to see if it needs an armature of some type. Styrene can be pretty self supporting... The refit seems like it would need one but really doesn't. and as wonky as the pylons on the TOS E is they are more stable than the refit... so I have hope that PL will work it out... since they were successful on a harder design already.


just a thought...
Jedi Dade
 
I'd definitely reinforce the pylons with rectangular brass tubing that can slide into shorter lengths of brass tubing inside the nacelles and secondary hull held in place with epoxy putty. I'd also run a length of brass bar down the spine between the back of the dorsal and the 3 lights over the hangar bay held in place with 5 minute epoxy. That's what I did on my 18 incher and it worked like a charm. This may require cutting the secondary hull in half horizontally along the sides and cementing the top sections together before doing the reinforcing but that's what I'd do anyway.
 
This thread is more than 11 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

MARK M3
1:350 TOS second Pilot, TOS uniform and Beaming Aboard!
Replies
3
Views
512
MARK M3
MARK M3
RossW
My PL 1/350 TOS Enterprise
Replies
11
Views
1,389
RossW
RossW
Chrisisall
Polar Lights 1/350 TOS Enterprise build resumed
Replies
11
Views
1,406
Chrisisall
Chrisisall
Boba Flint
1/350 TOS U.S.S. Enterprise 1st Pilot build
Replies
1
Views
974
Boba Flint
Boba Flint
Necronaut
Meng 1/350 Spice Harvester from Dune
Replies
5
Views
520
joberg
joberg
Back
Top