TRON LEGACY: ID Disc :: Small Update

Re: TRON LEGACY: Identity Disc :: Mold Pics

Bowelrock said:
How is ISS treating you?
Click to expand...

Ok, but it gets a bit boring up here. Here is a cool pic though!
twitpic-from-space-engadget.png


but alas, I don't technically work for ISS.
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: Identity Disc :: Mold Pics

I just discovered this thread and I'm in awe. This looks fantastic!!!!!
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: Identity Disc :: Mold Pics

Bubble, Bubble, Toil, and Trouble.

First few pulls where full of bubbles. But we have a method that looks good now. Although we are pulling these out of a high-impact plastic, I don't think they will have the durability illustrated of the screen used ones. But that may change with the other half included and all finished.

Some pics attached.

Now I have to get on the LEDs. For the "blade" lighting I need to test out my LED driver, then design the circuit board to hold them and the LEDs.

To recap a bit, I am planing on 7 drivers and circuit boards for the blade, each driver will control 8 LEDs. This will allow me to sequence them and hopefully pulse them to help preserve battery life.
For example, I turn on the first LED of each segment for a fraction of a second. Then the second LED while the first goes off and so on. this will result in only 7 LEDs being on at once vs all 56. There will be noticeable motion with this, but depending on the sequence I think It will bring a cool pulsing life to the disc.
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: ID Disc :: First Pull Pics

what material did you machine the master from? were you able to machine it using Rhino3d or did you have to use another program to do the machining? by the way awesome work.
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: ID Disc :: First Pull Pics

ClearCaseMan said:
what material did you machine the master from? were you able to machine it using Rhino3d or did you have to use another program to do the machining? by the way awesome work.
Click to expand...

The master was machined out of RenShape (460 I think). I programed the machining with Rhino3d w/ RhinoCam (MecSoft Corporation: CAD CAM Software | Computer Aided Design | Computer Aided Manufacturing) and machined it on a Roland MDX-540. Thank you.
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: ID Disc :: First Pull Pics

This larger and more accurate one will make lighting it a lot easier since you can fit more into it.
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: ID Disc :: First Pull Pics

Machined the Inner "C" ring this morning. This was laser cut 1/8" Clear Acrylic then machined to match the arc of the disc and scribed with almost 400 radial lines.
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: ID Disc :: First Pull Pics

Very cool and I want all these tools you have lol. I'd never leave the shop. This thing is going to look better than the ones disney made for the movie.
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: ID Disc :: First Pull Pics

nexnox said:
Machined the Inner "C" ring this morning. This was laser cut 1/8" Clear Acrylic then machined to match the arc of the disc and scribed with almost 400 radial lines.
Click to expand...

Those radial lines look perfect.

Are you sticking with clear acrylic for the final design, the real discs used fluorescent blue plexi?
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: ID Disc :: First Pull Pics

I am sticking with clear acrylic, that way the color can be changed with lighting gel. Also, I think it will give it a nicer overall appearance on and off.

Update: I am currently designing the circuit board for the blade LEDs. Stopped by Fry's today to pick up some ferric chloride and some copper clad board.
 
Re: TRON LEGACY: Identity Disc :: Mold Pics

nexnox said:
To recap a bit, I am planing on 7 drivers and circuit boards for the blade, each driver will control 8 LEDs. This will allow me to sequence them and hopefully pulse them to help preserve battery life.
For example, I turn on the first LED of each segment for a fraction of a second. Then the second LED while the first goes off and so on. this will result in only 7 LEDs being on at once vs all 56. There will be noticeable motion with this, but depending on the sequence I think It will bring a cool pulsing life to the disc.
Click to expand...

Wow ... just found this thread. You mention pulsing the LEDs, but having a noticeable motion; you can get around this. Thanks to POV (persistence of vision), pulse them fast enough and the human brain will perceive them as staying on. Because you're pulsing through a chain of LEDs instead of one, and want the whole line to steady on, you'll have to pulse them fairly quickly. To bounce some numbers off you, 60Hz is minimum for a decent steady effect on one LED. Round that to 100Hz and you won't see it flicker at all. Running 7 before returning to start, you want to clock them around 700Hz. Round again to 1kHz for ease and you should be good ... and not very fast, relatively speaking, in the electronics world. ;)

Just a thought,


ATM
ShackMan
 
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