Long slow ANH DL-44 build

Im waiting for someone to do something like this, Ive gotten a few parts down but theres three or four people lately who have really taken things beyond what most of us thought possible. I would love a sketchup model!

I'll have to think of a way to release it. Maybe someone with a wartime/commercial model could make the necessary changes.

Besides lanyard direction and perhaps grip size, the safety changed a bit over time. Not sure what else though.
 
That would be awesome, I'm terrible at Sketchup. Im sure you put a ton of work into it so I understand if you don't release it
 
I'll have to think of a way to release it. Maybe someone with a wartime/commercial model could make the necessary changes.

Besides lanyard direction and perhaps grip size, the safety changed a bit over time. Not sure what else though.

I would absolutely love a run of these. If you do make sure to tell all of us. I definitely know I'd be one of the first to sign up for one (or three):D
 
I've been looking into it. It'll be very expensive. Very.

Its rs just not practical. You can buy very good condition real Mausers for less than an accurate printed metal replica.
 
Scott's not kidding. I uploaded just the frame to shapeways. I know they're pricey: $52 for black S&F plastic. $135 for Acrylic. $228 for stainless steel. $610 for Aluminum. That's all without any necessary supports plus some wall thickness issues.

I was definitely thinking of releasing the model as artwork and reference material. :p
 
I've been looking into it. It'll be very expensive. Very.

Its rs just not practical. You can buy very good condition real Mausers for less than an accurate printed metal replica.

Scott's not kidding. I uploaded just the frame to shapeways. I know they're pricey: $52 for black S&F plastic. $135 for Acrylic. $228 for stainless steel. $610 for Aluminum. That's all without any necessary supports plus some wall thickness issues.

I was definitely thinking of releasing the model as artwork and reference material. :p


I wonder if you can print the parts in a heavy plastic. Sure it wouldn't feel completely right but a working Mauser replica would be totally worth it in my opinion.
 
Scott's not kidding. I uploaded just the frame to shapeways. I know they're pricey: $52 for black S&F plastic. $135 for Acrylic. $228 for stainless steel. $610 for Aluminum. That's all without any necessary supports plus some wall thickness issues.

I was definitely thinking of releasing the model as artwork and reference material. :p

228 isn't bad... but that stainless printed steel is a mutheryouknowwhat to machine. So cleaning it up will be very hard.

I have a few real mausers still not converted to live fire blasters... we can work on some files possibly. If there's a way to make it close enough, but different enough to never be convertible for firing it might be feasible. Expensive... but an alternative to those who want it accurate but not deal with the hassles of firearms.
 
Took quite a while for Todd's parts to come in, but they are wonderfully detailed! Then it took a while before I was able to get back to working on it. The title says "long slow" right?

This weekend's progress:

Time to finally cut off the barrel. Left quite a bit extra so it could be milled off square.
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Todd's bull barrel thread is 1/2"-32. Just don't have that tap on hand. So, chucked in the lathe and cut those off and dropped it down to 7/16".

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Figuring out where to drill the hole so everything lines up perfectly in the end isn't so easy. (spoiler) It works out in the end out though!

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Drill and tap the scope mounting holes.

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Dry fit. Now all I need to worry about is the tough part. Finishing...
I'm pretty happy with how it's turning out. (finally)

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All the time to attention to detail, I don't want you to kick yourself later after you see it... your bull barrel is too far forward on the upper...
 
Finished up the base plate button. Just chucked a 6-32 flat head screw in a drill and filed off the corner. A dab of JB Weld and it's perfect. Finger tight since there's no other choice. A dab of threadlock maybe someday.

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Nice work on the button here! Of course the mag plate is the real achievement, wow! I'm stuck on the button myself, might steal your method. Is that the tip of the screw representing the button, screwed in from the inside?

Geez, this whole blaster is wowza!
 
Is that the tip of the screw representing the button, screwed in from the inside?

Hi Pedro. It's not screwed in from the inside. I just press my thumb against it and rotate it until I get it fairly tight. It's not going anywhere. The phillips head is covered with JB Weld.

The Denix casting is a big hunk of solid metal in that area that slopes with the trigger guard. No way to get a screw into it from the inside without some serious milling.

Geez, this whole blaster is wowza!
Thank you!
 
Hi Pedro. It's not screwed in from the inside. I just press my thumb against it and rotate it until I get it fairly tight. It's not going anywhere. The phillips head is covered with JB Weld.

The Denix casting is a big hunk of solid metal in that area that slopes with the trigger guard. No way to get a screw into it from the inside without some serious milling.


Thank you!

Gotcha, screw pushed in from the outside, philips X filled with JB Weld. I wanted something all metal but this could work! Or I could just grind off the whole end of a bolt or something I guess. Nice!

I'm still blown away by the mag plate you made. So good! Will you make one up for me? ;)
 
So much closer to being done.

I have to give it to Harrison Ford for his ability to hold this thing all day. It's massive at almost 4 lb 4 oz. And still a couple parts left to add!

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About 1-1/2 hours in klean strip paint stripper makes the paint on Todds flash hider much easier to remove. I can't remember at this point who did the heat treatment first, but it's definitely something I'm keeping.

Scope wobble is a problem. I have some auto undercoating. I'm thinking of rubberizing the inside of the cope mounts. Anyone else had this issue?
 
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