BSG FTL Jump Key ?
- Thread starter Wolvster1
- Start date
msleeper
Sr Member
At this time I don't want to share detailed dimensions of the key publicly. Rebelscum has them for making the one he did, so I want to wait and see where that goes. If he ultimately decides not to pursue a run, I can share the info with others. And if he does a run, everyone will have access to them that way.
Yep, 3 parts. The cylinder, the larger flat portion the cylinder fits on, and the thinner piece on the back. The back piece is exactly what you see, nothing 'inserts' into the other pieces. It's drilled out a little on the inside to allow for the back end of the Flash Fires. Obviously the cylinder overlaps the bottom piece a little, but other than that there's no 'hidden' overlapping or inserting pieces. The small piece on the back is just held on with a screw, and that holds in the lights.
Ahh okay, totally fair! I only skimmed the thread up until now so I wasn't aware. Thanks though =)
As I recall, I had a Flash Fire that I measured off for the order, but I can't remember if they came out exact. But at least pretty darn close.
Man, If I could machine aluminum with any regularity, this would be the one project I would love to redo.
19narvik40
Sr Member
Sean, Some of have already run out of organs:cry A resin one would be a little more affordable to more people. Do I want an aluminium FTL key, Damned Skippy I do. Can I afford one, doubtful.
Plastic can be vacuum-metalized, but the cost to have one done would likely be as much as getting it made out of aluminum.
19narvik40
Sr Member
Is vacuum-metalized the same as chroming plastic kit parts? I was talking about immersing the piece in an electrolyte solution and running current through it. Just want to be sure.
Vacuum metalizing is a process where atomized aluminum condenses in a vacuum onto a material to create a chrome like finish. It's what you see on car headlights and such.
I think it may be possible to do the electroplating process you are talking about, but you need to first coat the plastic in something that is conductive before you can start the plating process, because plastic is not conductive. Then you first plate it with copper, then you plate it with nickel, and finally plate it in chrome - polishing it between each step.
Either way, the cost may compete with making the thing out of aluminum to begin with.
I think it may be possible to do the electroplating process you are talking about, but you need to first coat the plastic in something that is conductive before you can start the plating process, because plastic is not conductive. Then you first plate it with copper, then you plate it with nickel, and finally plate it in chrome - polishing it between each step.
Either way, the cost may compete with making the thing out of aluminum to begin with.
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19narvik40
Sr Member
I've been googling plating methods and have found the dip method mentioned, trying now to see if there is a chrome or bright aluminium colour available. One company quoted about $100 for the kit which should be plenty for a run of resin keys.
Rebelscum
Sr Member
Checking back in here, have some questions.
Thanks to RIK and work by my friend Bruce Lee, and tinkering with lots of little fitment issues, I was able to duplicate the key RIK has to work with the original lights. RIK and I compared his lights with what you used to be able to get and they were almost identical, but not exact. The difference didn't really matter though.
The way it's designed, it's a bit imprecise how they are switched on. Ingenious, but not terrific.
Also since you you can't get more lights, I tracked down the blade material and had those cut and polished in China, to go with a design that allowed the use of an actual battery and virtually hidden switch so it would be much more practical as a fun prop.
Running the parts is pretty straight forward, but it's a lot of steps, requiring lathe and 4th axis work, and 3d profile milling, plus the lower body of they key has to be machined on all 6 sides. Not to mention how long it takes to machine out for the lighting design.
And even when all that's done, you have to decide how you want it finished. Polish the round barrel part, scotchbrite the rest, or full polish the parts... ?
I don't actually know what the cost is to make them, but I will find out for you by running through the setups again.
I can also make the dock. Bruce designed and I built a really cool mechanism with the dock so you can insert it, which throws a switch, and rotate it 90 degrees and it throws another switch. That's the good news, bad news is it's several pieces, all machined as well.
Anyway, if I can get some feedback on what people might like, I'll start moving this along.
Thanks to RIK and work by my friend Bruce Lee, and tinkering with lots of little fitment issues, I was able to duplicate the key RIK has to work with the original lights. RIK and I compared his lights with what you used to be able to get and they were almost identical, but not exact. The difference didn't really matter though.
The way it's designed, it's a bit imprecise how they are switched on. Ingenious, but not terrific.
Also since you you can't get more lights, I tracked down the blade material and had those cut and polished in China, to go with a design that allowed the use of an actual battery and virtually hidden switch so it would be much more practical as a fun prop.
Running the parts is pretty straight forward, but it's a lot of steps, requiring lathe and 4th axis work, and 3d profile milling, plus the lower body of they key has to be machined on all 6 sides. Not to mention how long it takes to machine out for the lighting design.
And even when all that's done, you have to decide how you want it finished. Polish the round barrel part, scotchbrite the rest, or full polish the parts... ?
I don't actually know what the cost is to make them, but I will find out for you by running through the setups again.
I can also make the dock. Bruce designed and I built a really cool mechanism with the dock so you can insert it, which throws a switch, and rotate it 90 degrees and it throws another switch. That's the good news, bad news is it's several pieces, all machined as well.
Anyway, if I can get some feedback on what people might like, I'll start moving this along.
B-Movie Zombie
Sr Member
Sean
Sr Member
If you need the light's for sizing the hole's. I can send you mine. I probably wont do anything with them anyway..
msleeper
Sr Member
If you can get me accurate measurements (a digital caliper is the best here) then that should be fine. Otherwise sure, PM me and I'll give you my shipping address. Although if there is suitable acrylic rod that can be easily sourced that might be better, but I could always make 2 versions.
Sean
Sr Member
MM 10.02
Inches 0.394 and an extra little five at the end of that. apologies I don't talk calipers. but i have em tho...lol
Rik1138
Sr Member
On the actual prop, the hole for the Flash Fire is .405 inches from the front of the key to just before the little hole for the button. .422 inches from the button hole to the back of the key. This allows the light to be pushed in from the back, and it kind of 'snaps' into place when button reaches the little hole. .405 is too small to pull the key all the way through, so it kind of locks it into the key...
Also note: if using Flash Fires, when making the diagonal cut on the acrylic rod to keep in mind the orientation of the light. The rod can't be adjusted (it screws in tightly on the the little handle with the LED), and the light itself can't (well, shouldn't) be spun once the button is locked into the hole. You can't just arbitrarily make an angled cut, it has to be at a specific orientation on the rod.
Also note: if using Flash Fires, when making the diagonal cut on the acrylic rod to keep in mind the orientation of the light. The rod can't be adjusted (it screws in tightly on the the little handle with the LED), and the light itself can't (well, shouldn't) be spun once the button is locked into the hole. You can't just arbitrarily make an angled cut, it has to be at a specific orientation on the rod.
