MaximumOvrdrive
New Member
Ive been checking there too, just says unavailable.
ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found
- Thread starter deadbolt
- Start date
kpax
Sr Member
Interesting. Naked Runner was released in 1967. Randall and Hopkirk (Deceased) produced 1968-1969.
I agree with Scott and others the upper is the same but lower is not. The milling details in the relief pockets are not the same as either NR or SW.
Also note that the bull barrel is not the same as NR. The locking tab is missing on the bull barrel R&H images so it must have been re-barreled at some point after NR.
I did a quick overlay and the barrel length seems the same so I figure it must be a rebarrel for some reason rather than the end cut off.
Maybe a rechamber for caliber?
This helps explain the barrel chamfers being questioned when comparing NR and ANH images.
Yeah. I remember saying as much before somewhere in this thread a couple of years ago about the barrel chamfers looking different. The NR looks more severely angled. But I chalked it up to being a focal lens artifact at the time.
hey kpax did you ever get my pm?
hey kpax did you ever get my pm?
Of course, otherwise we would not be looking to add this feature to our builds
check the chronicles and you will find a pic showing the windage knob with numbered dial....pic also found -somewhere- within this thread
Thanks, I'm going through the whole thing again.
kpax
Sr Member
Do you mean the 1-10 dial knob or the part number under the knob on the knob base?
If talking about the knob base numbers, the best reference images I have don't show numbers clearly. Looks to be damaged or just bad resolution. You can see the best available image of it on page 1 of this thread.
If talking about the knob base numbers, the best reference images I have don't show numbers clearly. Looks to be damaged or just bad resolution. You can see the best available image of it on page 1 of this thread.
Thank you Sir! I was referring to the knob are numbers. I'm scouring through the entire thread again, and I am absolutely dumbfounded by the amount of work and group effort that went into this. From disagreement, comes discovery, and as I say all the time at work "ALL of us is smarter than ANY of us."
I will be getting a DEC kit when they become available again, but have been messing with my 3D printer again, and want to tweak a few things, such as proper knurling on the scope knob, engraving, and correct bull barrel features. Probably give it to my daughters boyfriend when done.
WHEW!!! What a read! Thrills, chills, excitement, drama! I finally got through all 144 pages of this beast and I have a question.
Once the TomTit cylinder parts were identified and Mr. Reade got situated and started offering these again, I never really saw or heard any followup to how to use these the right way.
Has anyone done any kind of tutorial on building the grill from the cylinder parts?
I ordered three sets just in case. In looking through the pictures, some of them look like it's a full cylinder (straight section and tapered section together) ontop of a second straight section. In others, it looks like three of the straight sections stacked on top of each other.
I'd love to know what the consensus is, and any successful techniques you had in cutting these down without damaging them. The only thing I saw was @scottjua saying to be careful and use hand tools and that he'd post pics of what he did later.
Thank you all so much for keeping all of this information together. I've spent years on the Graflex, boba fett, and vader helmets but hadn't really spent that much time on this blaster until I ordered the newer Armorer Works airsoft version the other day and figured I'd better read up on this bad boy.
Oh, and kpax... nice post count man!
Once the TomTit cylinder parts were identified and Mr. Reade got situated and started offering these again, I never really saw or heard any followup to how to use these the right way.
Has anyone done any kind of tutorial on building the grill from the cylinder parts?
I ordered three sets just in case. In looking through the pictures, some of them look like it's a full cylinder (straight section and tapered section together) ontop of a second straight section. In others, it looks like three of the straight sections stacked on top of each other.
I'd love to know what the consensus is, and any successful techniques you had in cutting these down without damaging them. The only thing I saw was @scottjua saying to be careful and use hand tools and that he'd post pics of what he did later.
Thank you all so much for keeping all of this information together. I've spent years on the Graflex, boba fett, and vader helmets but hadn't really spent that much time on this blaster until I ordered the newer Armorer Works airsoft version the other day and figured I'd better read up on this bad boy.
Oh, and kpax... nice post count man!
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newmagrathea
Sr Member
I have yet to find a tutorial, but I did find this image, I can't remember who posted it. I'll probably make a video when I cut mine up to make the grill.
Awesome! Thank you, was this posted in this thread? Not sure how I missed it but that helps a ton. So it IS three straight sections, the top one is just pushed in a little further.
newmagrathea
Sr Member
I grabbed this from a different thread. I'm not sure if it's anywhere in this one. Yep the top one is also flipped the upside down compared to the other two sections.
That pic is perfect, was going to make a tutorial myself. Basically use the bottom half of 3 cylinders, with a slot cut out to fit the Mauser. The top piece is trimmed a little more so it looks smaller from the side. A bit tricky to actually cut out! A dremel and fine saw help a lot.
I'm afraid a dremel would just melt the plastic. Hopefully it's doable with an exacto blade so I don't slip up.
kpax
Sr Member
That's a pretty good diagram of the setup
Just be sure to count the rings TWICE ! ; )
The TOP section on the HERO is set back and tilted if you are going for ultimate accuracy. I had done a series of images showing this but went back to look and it seems my images are all gone for some reason in this thread. Maybe the server is screwed up.
As a side note, the 3 piece pattern was figured out before Deadbolt found the TomTitt parts...we were all looking very hard back then...memories. ; )
Good luck !
I used a razor saw for the initial cuts, then a sanding drum in dremel for final shaping/fitting, with a little file cleanup after. Basically I sawed a bit inside of where I wanted the cuts, and didn't bother trying to get the saw cut parallel to the shape of the mauser, but rather cut towards the center of the tomtit part, which is much easier. It gets a tiny bit melty with the dremel but not bad at all, totally controllable, and the melty nubs just pop off. Hand files would do the job as well but that plastic is surprisingly tough. Also, a quick application of lacquer thinner smoothed out any roughened bits and brought some gloss back.
I personally wouldn't attempt the major cuts with an exacto, that plastic is tough, I feel the saw and dremel were much more controllable and precise.
I personally wouldn't attempt the major cuts with an exacto, that plastic is tough, I feel the saw and dremel were much more controllable and precise.
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