ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found

The real c96 sized grips can be fit to the MGC. They are only slightly shorter and narrower than the MGC. The front edge of the grip frame can be filed down to fit.
 
Just a quick question slightly off conversation... Best way to weather the flash hider? Decided not to blue the blaster but paint it. Now just wondering how to make the flash hider look weathered as well as the brass fittings..I've etch primed everything except the FH. Still sanding the Denix...
Thanks
 
Thanks for the kinds words about the models, Pat and Dave!

Bodie27 said:
Just a quick question slightly off conversation... Best way to weather the flash hider? Decided not to blue the blaster but paint it. Now just wondering how to make the flash hider look weathered as well as the brass fittings..I've etch primed everything except the FH. Still sanding the Denix...
Thanks
Click to expand...

If you have a steel FH, a little scrubbing in vinegar for a few minutes with a toothbrush seems to dull and darken it down a bit closer to the look of the Hero's FH. But it all depends on the look your going for of course. :thumbsup


-Carson
 
White vinegar will remove the chemical bluing agents from steel and zinc, so I assume the same will work for aluminum, but I'd test it first. I plan to blue my steel FH with Perma Blue and then soak it in white vinegar for ten minutes to fade the bluing to an aged grayer look. I tried this on the Steyr receiver of my Bladerunner gun and it worked really well. That part is a zinc casting. You could use Aluminum Black on your FH and then soak it in vinegar until you get the effect you want.
 
That sounds good. I tried vinegar briefly but didn't give it time. I read it really won't do too much to alum. I think alum black then vinegar will give the result I want. Cheers
 
final tweaks are being made to the accurate grips and will be available soon.

They will be available for Real C96 - MGC and Denix versions !

Stay tuned.
 
DEC did not mention that the grips will be available for the real Mauser c96, MGC and Denix versions.

Walnut with 32 lines like the ANH hero dl-44 with brass escutcheons and screw.
 
Could anyone who got the DEC SLEEVE-version bull barrel and flash hider please tell me if the length of exposed barrel is adjustable at all? I am asking as I am making a Power 5 instead, which appears to have a slightly longer barrel than Han's DL-44, and I'm wondering if I could use these parts. I tried emailing DEC directly to ask, but haven't heard back.
Thank you!
 
Yes the bull barrel and flash hider could be used for the power 5. Not sure of the exact exposed length of the barrel maybe 1/2 inch longer than the Han Solo. You may need the attach the FH to the barrel with epoxy or the like but that should not matter since the power 5 MerrSonn's don't use the thumbscrew... I believe.
 
Hey all,

I've been reading this forum for a while now, but I'm not sure if this has been fully resolved, so forgive me being late to the conversation. It's about this lump between the bolt and bolt stop - has anyone seen this in an actual mauser, or is it just this one prop? The only reason I can think of why it would exist would be to prevent the bolt being removed if the bolt stop were blocked. (And why that would be desired is beyond me.)
Also- if the lower was from the the Naked Runner, and the "mystery disk" is actually where the scope mount attached... where is the rear hole in the ANH prop?
 
... The lump, or Deadbolts lump as we call it looks like a weld to me and May have
Been a repair. The Sweeny gun looks like it may have the same lump but
Is not positively clear.
The lump would not impair the bolt stop as I believe it moves forward not to the rear. I have asked Mauser experts
And WW2 experts and they have never seen this issue before and also suggested
A repair.
The naked runner lower and upper are in question as far as I am concerned
Due to the discrepancies with some details such as the rails and bevels looking
Different... To me
 
I've just picked up a real Hensoldt scope but it has the legs attached is there anyone who can advise as to the best way to remove them?
 
the mounts are just silver-soldered to the scope.
get a microtoch, put the scope in a vice and start heating up the joint between mount and scope.
as soon as the solder starts to weep out in small "pearls", slightly tap the mount with a hammer and it will come right off

sand the remaining solder and reblue

Markus
 

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