ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!

Got some beautiful blue-gray linen and finished the shirt tonight. Still used the McCall's, moving the shoulder seams back, keeping the bust darts and back yoke pleats, and adding some waist darts that I'm still evaluating --- I may adjust them still. My yellow-y lighting doesn't show the color well but I'm very happy with it. I still have to finish the bottom edge (I'll probably just serge it) but otherwise it turned out great! My collar pattern looks a little different than others' but it's generally the same idea. I think the less curved collar works for my neck -- a bit more of a stand looks more correct for my proportions.

jenf0arc That looks great! The fabric looks like it drapes really well. I'm curious...did you finish the neckhole of the shirt and then stitch the finished collar down on top of it? I know people have mentioned the topstitch on it, but I'm not sure how I'll decide to tackle it once I'm ready to start.

McCall Pattern M7360 Modifications - Darts

The second modification I made was to “pivot” the pattern’s Straight or Side Dart to a Vertical Dart. This moves the original location of the dart to one which is more consistent with the screen appearance of the shirt without affecting the fit. There are two common methods to performing this type of “dart manipulation” and there are tutorials on-line for both (Slash and Pivot/Transfer). I am using the pivot method.

My example moves the dart to a Vertical Dart but the technique can be used to move it to any location around the 360 degrees of the pivot point (always the bust point for bodice sloper). For example I tried to move the dart to the Middle Shoulder so I could separate the Bib and the Front using the dart as the point of separation. The idea would work but would make the Bib too wide at the bottom. I tried to “cheat the fit” by sliding the dart back toward the centerfront but I thought the fit was becoming too distorted. Plus I would still need to add the vertical seam if I wanted the accuracy. (Dividing or distributing a single dart into multiple darts is also an option which others may want to investigate.)

The first photo shows the process after the first half of the trace has been completed and the pattern pivoted to “close” the old dart so it can be eliminated. This opens up the new dart at the new location. Mathematically the angles are the same so the fit is unchanged. However this does change the size of the dart and the amount of material required.


Two cautions, first the end point of both the original and new darts is NOT at the pivot point, they are located a distance from the pivot. It may not be clear from the photo but I scribed a circle around the pivot the radius is that of the original dart’s endpoint for the size I was using (size 10). Second, the new dart has much longer legs and will produce a larger bulk of overlapped fabric. You may want to trim this back to a 3/8 or 1/2” seam allowance after sewing the dart. It is important to leave top of this seam at the endpoint untrimmed and just pressed flat as the seams are pressed open. (Tutorials on reducing bulk in darts are available on-line if trimming a dart is as new to you as it was to me.)

The second photo shows the finished new pattern. (My original pattern had been modified to move back the “forward shoulder” so this new pattern also incorporated that change. The same technique could have done without the modification.)

graciefox said:

@jenf0arc That looks great! The fabric looks like it drapes really well. I'm curious...did you finish the neckhole of the shirt and then stitch the finished collar down on top of it? I know people have mentioned the topstitch on it, but I'm not sure how I'll decide to tackle it once I'm ready to start.

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Hey thanks! Nope, I just stitched it on without finishing the neck hole, pressing the seam allowances down, and then edge stitched around the collar. But that actually reminds me I forgot to edge stitch the other edge (the actual flap) before I attached it, and it would have been a lot easier had I done that first.

I ended up buying the fabric in the garment district in NYC and was told it was 100% linen but for some reason when ever I buy fabric at these hole-in-the-wall places I always just assume there's some unstated partial polyester content. Am I the only one that does that? Maybe because the stuff never feels or smells or dyes the same as the stuff from big places like Mood or B&J's or Joann's. So far it wrinkles like mad but the drape is great. It also frays like crazy, perhaps explaining why there are so many flat-felled seams in the screen version?

And @smithjohnj you were so smart to just move the darts since you need the vertical darts anyway, I wish I'd thought of that!

Has anyone identified the ribbon cable used on the vest?

I found this cable through DigiKey, dimensions look right, except it is a clear insulator instead of black.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cicoil/969M101-14-4-SMC-025/969M101-14-4-SMC-025-ND/3526231

Just wanted to share my version of Jyn's Kyber Crystal Pendant Necklace for those that haven't seen it yet:





lights up too:



I have a thread in the project runs sub-forum if anyone is interested, or you can just send me a PM.

Been following this thread for a while. Some really cool stuff going on in here. Looking forward to seeing everyone's finished Jyn costumes!

Soulinertia that is fabulous, by far the best necklace I've seen yet! I may have to order an unlit one!

Soulinertia said:

Just wanted to share my version of Jyn's Kyber Crystal Pendant Necklace for those that haven't seen it yet:

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Soulinertia, I found your page on eBay. I love how much detail you put into these, and I just bought one of the unlit crystals. I'm so glad to support you. Thank you for sharing!

Finished the boot flaps last night with some scrap leather that was an excellent match for the Frye boots. I saw the Imperial Disguise costume on display at Disney World a few weeks ago (same boots and gloves) and was struck by how much smaller the boot flaps were than I thought they'd be. But of course it's all proportional to the foot size of the wearer, and what type of boots you're making them for. (Frye's, Target, combat boots, etc.)

Inspired by @smithjohnj's impressive lacing experiment and solution, I've sewed small bits of bias-tape at angles at the corners to a piece of canvas the same size as the flaps, and then sewed the canvas flaps to the back of the leather ones. My thinking was I could thread the laces through the corners to keep them in place and prevent me from sewing into an expensive pair of boots, but so far I don't think it's working so great, it doesn't really allow the flaps to lay perfectly but maybe with some tweaking I could get this solution to work.



@Soulinertia I've ordered your necklace and excited to make it a part of my costume!

Oh I also forgot, although my photo doesn't show it so great, I remember there was some speculation as to how the top flap attaches. I could clearly see at the edge of the top flap at the DHS display there was a distinct line of black velcro. Here was my best shot of it, although there seems to be a shadow obscuring it:


(They didn't even bother chiseling out the Frye logo on the heel on this version)

We've finally finish our lower-cost Andor Jacket (available in Andor Brown or Erso Olive): White Label Andor Jacket by Magnoli Clothiers




Kind regards,
Magnoli

Indy Magnoli - is there a women's version, or is the Erso just the same men's cut in the olive color?

Ordered soulinertia's kyber crystal necklace and Indy Magnoli's Jyn jacket! I'm so excited to receive both and to (hopefully) wear them to Star Wars Celebration.

Chrononaut said:

@Indy Magnoli - is there a women's version, or is the Erso just the same men's cut in the olive color?

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We have a slightly different measurement form for women while will give the jacket a little more shape. But all the details are the same between the two.

I ended up buying a cheap jacket from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS05N8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that is long, so I can remove fabric from the bottom to hopefully add some of the features seen on Jyn's jacket. I also plan to alter the mandarin neckline and remove buttons and those shoulder placket things. I'm getting stressed about the vest, so it's the best I can do for Celebration, anyway. I'll probably end up using puff paint for the stripes, since this will be a stand-in jacket.

Speaking of puff paint (or rather, screen printing), did you guys notice the bleached spots on Jyn's legs are also screen printed? I sure didn't...

Here's some progress - I finished the gloves last night!

- - - Updated - - -
@smithjohnj How did you create the pattern for the neckline for Jyn's shirt? I have the shirt made but I can't figure out my measurements to make the yoke/collar

gatoradrienne Here are a set of pattern pieces based on the original Butterick design. My work was a mix of mathematics, drafting, draping and test fitting. I have repeated the process a couple of times for different size models but I am not sure if others can make use of my patterns or not.

I have included a large number of suggestions and tips on the pattern pieces themselves. My approach uses more of a straight collar (like a menswear collar stand) in the back, it widens as it passes over(and is topstitched to) the shoulder and coming around to be flat on the front. I believe this is a similar approach which @jenf0arc used and provided in post #721. Caution my Bib pattern is shown as a piece cut on a fold, but most view the Bib to be asymmetric,squarish on one end, clipped on the other. jenf0arc shows this very well.

I have had trouble uploading and sharing these files on the site so I have not provided the full set to the general audience. Also I have been reluctant to provide something which might do more harm (to your fabric and time) than good. Please see if these are of any use and I can try to answer some questions if you give them a test. (It might be best to PM your questions unless you think they are of general interest and value, just so we do not clutter this thread more than I already have done).

I have been working on making a new bib pattern for the McCall M7360 pattern I have been modifying in other posts but I have not really completed that task and it is not much different than the attached plans. Good luck with your own project.

smithjohnj said:

Newuploads.

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smithjohnj said:

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I have not abandoned my Jyn Erso efforts but I have been playing with a new toy and working on 3D modeling. More work to do but here is an in-progress Comlink.

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First of all - I have to give a huge shout-out to everyone. This thread has a wealth of information, and I've been pouring over it for days...actually, I guess it's been more like weeks now. Anyway...

Question for the general public on making Jyn's blaster. I've been looking at various kits on Etsy and then debating if I could cobble the thing together from parts on my own. Has anyone actually put together her blaster? If so, care to share your thoughts/methods/which kit you used/etc.?