BladeoftheMoon
Well-Known Member
Is resin an option for the mold you have ? I would be happy to purchase a resin copy to help fund your project if possible.
WIP - 1:1 Stan Winston Style Velociraptor Head Sculpt
- Thread starter Buffbeefbro
- Start date
Buffbeefbro
New Member
Sorry, It's an ultracal 30 mold, which I'm pretty sure is limited to Silicone and latex, and I've heard bad things about casting the two materials in the same mold, so I'm limited to silicone.
Kohrsfilms
Member
You can get resin and fiberglass for relatively cheap at Home Depot. I made the fiberglass skull for my raptor by lining the inside of the mold with a very thin layer of clay and fiberglassing over the clay. Then just cast a latex or silicone skin and it should slide on the form and fit perfectly.
Buffbeefbro
New Member
Huh, that's actually not a bad idea. Water based or oil based clay?
EDIT: Actually, I'll probably end up lining the inside with a few layers of aluminum foil topped with wax paper and making tape instead of clay, so I don't have the headache of mold cleanup again.
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Actually, I have seen where people line their molds with Saran wrap (Sandwich wrap) then put the clay in. It's thin and doesn't ad any extra
thickness to the mold. Clay pulls right out, no clean up. Same idea, just a different material.
Hi.
if you need some funding to finish your work, I Have a customer in the UK who will buy one off these heads in silicone from you :eek
He is building a wrangler jeep replica from JP1 and I made the light bar & custom lights for him.
he would love to have a raptor head to go with it..!!
if this will help you out let me know by PM and i can show him your Raptor Head.
Also I would not Do lot's of casting in your mould until you have casted a master copy
This is Important to protect from future damage.
Chow.
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claymore61
Well-Known Member
Great posts,
I especially like the Stan Winston video. Brilliant
I especially like the Stan Winston video. Brilliant
claymore61
Well-Known Member
Hi.
if you need some funding to finish your work, I Have a customer in the UK who will buy one off these heads in silicone from you :eek
He is building a wrangler jeep replica from JP1 and I made the light bar & custom lights for him.
he would love to have a raptor head to go with it..!!
if this will help you out let me know by PM and i can show him you Raptor Head.
Also I would not Do lot's of casting in your mould until you have casted a master copy
This is Important to protect from future damage.
Chow.
Kinglee's advice is sound.
The first thing i tend to do now is make a plaster version, when my mould is ready. this is the master copy, so if the mould gets damaged, you can make a new mould from that.
Treatment of the mould and master for release and protection, varies depending on the materials used
I tend to use fine casting plaster which provides great fine detail and hardness. You also get a 25kg bag for less than £10 ($15) .
The masters also look cool on a display shelf
Buffbeefbro
New Member
I do want to make a master copy as soon as possible, since I can see a few more air bubbles popping up after my two casts. What materials would you recommend to cast in for a master copy?Hi.
if you need some funding to finish your work, I Have a customer in the UK who will buy one off these heads in silicone from you :eek
He is building a wrangler jeep replica from JP1 and I made the light bar & custom lights for him.
he would love to have a raptor head to go with it..!!
if this will help you out let me know by PM and i can show him you Raptor Head.
Also I would not Do lot's of casting in your mould until you have casted a master copy
This is Important to protect from future damage.
Chow.
Would the plaster not bond to the Ultracal 30 I used to make the mold?Kinglee's advice is sound.
The first thing i tend to do now is make a plaster version, when my mould is ready. this is the master copy, so if the mould gets damaged, you can make a new mould from that.
Treatment of the mould and master for release and protection, varies depending on the materials used
I tend to use fine casting plaster which provides great fine detail and hardness. You also get a 25kg bag for less than £10 ($15) .
The masters also look cool on a display shelf
The clear coat was to make it easier to release from the mold.
claymore61
Well-Known Member
Making a plaster master kinda depends on the shape and undercuts etc,,
you can seal the mould and use PVA release agent etc, but I only just noticed you used ultracal for the mould (duh!!):facepalm
I tend to use one of the rubbers for moulds and a support jacket of plaster,modroc bandages or fibreglass, so making a plaster copy is relatively problem free.
Have a wee look at my recent Davy Jones pipe post which shows a process.
you can seal the mould and use PVA release agent etc, but I only just noticed you used ultracal for the mould (duh!!):facepalm
I tend to use one of the rubbers for moulds and a support jacket of plaster,modroc bandages or fibreglass, so making a plaster copy is relatively problem free.
Have a wee look at my recent Davy Jones pipe post which shows a process.
Buffbeefbro
New Member
No progress lately, I've been broke and kind of scared to try making the skull. I've never worked with fiberglass before in my life so I'm a little iffy about working with it.
Anyway, I stuffed the first cast up with towels for now and stuck it on my stand I used for the sculpt. Here's some pictures for an idea of scale:
Anyway, I stuffed the first cast up with towels for now and stuck it on my stand I used for the sculpt. Here's some pictures for an idea of scale:
brivette007
Well-Known Member
Awesome work man! Looks like it is coming together nicely!
BTW, I just saw you're from Kent. I'm from down the road in Stow. Just thought that's kinda neat.
BTW, I just saw you're from Kent. I'm from down the road in Stow. Just thought that's kinda neat.
Tatsutetsu
Member
If you don’t mind are you able to further explain these two? they look really interesting and I’d like to know more about them if its not too much trouble.
Alpha Proto
Sr Member
You have a string , a pivot point, and a spring.
You pull the string, and the mouth moves open on the pivot point. The spring returns the mouth to it's closed position when you stop pulling.
Great sculpt, and pull of the JP Raptor head!
You pull the string, and the mouth moves open on the pivot point. The spring returns the mouth to it's closed position when you stop pulling.
Great sculpt, and pull of the JP Raptor head!
Tatsutetsu
Member
Oh I see, they are showing the one in the same mechanism with two components, for second there I thought they were two mutually exclusive solutions to the jaw mechanism, thanks.
The cast is looking killer, whats the next major step you need to undertake?
Buffbeefbro
New Member
I'm actually from Stow, too. I just go to Kent for school.
Well my next major step was to create a foam core, nothing too exciting. Now I need to order more silicone to repair the seamline.
I also bought a neat laser-cut acrylic 3D Velociraptor paddock sign I thought would look nice displayed next to the head.
JurassicJeremy
New Member
Any update on this?
