Jackieisrockin's IM3 Iron Patriot Pepakura Files! V2 files coming soon!

This may have been answered already but this thread is 92 pages long and I can't seem to find an answer. I've downloaded all the files, scaled them to my size, and arranged them to be cut by my CraftROBO. However, after the first page was cut I realized that there are several flaps missing. In fact, most of the flaps are missing. They seem to be turned the wrong way; they're basically flipped under the piece and if the piece is thin enough, a bit of the flap will stick out from the opposite end. Has anybody else had this problem, or does anybody know how to fix it? Thanks!
 
This may have been answered already but this thread is 92 pages long and I can't seem to find an answer. I've downloaded all the files, scaled them to my size, and arranged them to be cut by my CraftROBO. However, after the first page was cut I realized that there are several flaps missing. In fact, most of the flaps are missing. They seem to be turned the wrong way; they're basically flipped under the piece and if the piece is thin enough, a bit of the flap will stick out from the opposite end. Has anybody else had this problem, or does anybody know how to fix it? Thanks!

Whenever you rescale an object, the flaps don't automatically get scaled with them. You can fix this in batch within Pepakura, by going in to flap editing mode (Ctrl + F), then in the dialog that pops up select "Change Shape". Here you can change the height of all flaps, the default is 5mm. Press the "Apply to all flaps" button to fix all the flaps in the object.

Beyond that, Pepakura's flap generator does not take in to account to depth of the adjoining face, which leads to the problem you're having. My best suggestion there is to use an Xacto to trim the length of the tabs that may be overlapping before you glue them in to place.
 
Thanks for the help msleeper. I don't think I made my problems very clear with my other post. This is what I'm talking about: Flaps.jpg
As you can see in the RED, the flaps on these pieces seem to be pointing the wrong direction. For instance, I outlined where the flap is in BLUE. I've been using Pepakura for years and never had this problem. Maybe it's the way it was unfolded? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
That's definitely weird. What version of Pepakura are you using? What file is that specifically, can you paste the link? You might need to try flipping the side the flap is on in flap mode (Ctrl + F).
 
I'm using both Pepakura Designer and Pepakura Viewer/Viewer for CraftROBO. Both are completely updated. And this is happening with all the files in the first post of this thread.


Edit: Actually I just figured it out. I just downloaded all of the files again and they're perfectly fine. I have no idea what all that was about, but it's working now. Thanks for all your help, msleeper! :)
 
Super bizarre! Maybe whoever unfolded them used a slightly older version of Pepakura or something. That's definitely the first time I've heard of that happening.
 
First of all let me just say after 92 pages of reading, there is some awesome work done here. I'm new to this, but hope to be gaining more experience by trying builds. Several pages ago there was some talk about a 3.75" long rail on the arm for weapons attachment that somebody mentioned printing. I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in since I recognize the part. I work in a gun and pawn store, that is a section of 1913 picatinny rail. Better than searching for that there is a company called Weaver that makes a piece that might work perfectly. It fits a Marlin model 336 rifle, I'll look up part number when I get to work. You should be able to get this at most sporting goods stores that sale firearms, Wal Mart included. These cost less than $20 a rail. Hope this helps in someway.
 
Hi folks,
I'm almost done with my sons IP costume..BTW scaling for a kids costume is a big pain in the @#!%
Anyway, I'm now working on effects/gimicks for the costume, and was wondering if someone can show/teach/give me tips on how to put motorized sound effects on the suit.
I've seen a few videos where some armors have sound effects when you walk.
I'm not much of an electrician/technician guy, I was able to put in lights for the eyes, chest and repulsors but have no idea on how to put sounds in.
TIA
 
Hi there, I would like to share some pics of my project.
Thanks to all the folks that shared their files, your work is amazing.

I couldn't get it anywhere near the quality of work that I see on this forum, but hopefully I do a little better next time.
I repainted the entire suit, with a darker metallic blue and red, overall I'm pretty happy with the results. Not bad for my first time using foam (I think:D).

Anyway, I "attempted" to dry brush some damage/weathering on the suit. I used silver paint to put scratches on the blue and red parts but don"t know how to simulate damage on the silver sections. The silver parts just look a little too clean to me. Any tips on how I go about that?

I got a bunch of pics posted, any kind of feedback or advice on how to improve my work would be much appreciated.
Comment on, and again thanks to everyone that takes the time to share and help out :)

DSC_0256.JPGDSC_0265.JPGDSC_0266.JPGDSC_0267.JPGDSC_0268.JPGDSC_0269.JPGDSC_0270.JPGDSC_0271.JPG
DSC_0264.JPG
I put some pics of the abs, as this is my cleanest work from this build any am pretty proud of it lol
I know the eyes are either white or a lighter red, but my son wanted red to make it look "angrier".
 
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I am finishing up buying everything that I need to complete my helmet and cannon motorization, and I'd like to share with everyone the cost of motorizing your Iron Patriot. The below spreadsheet is adapted from laellee 's parts list, but I've made it a bit easier to follow, fixed up some of the item part IDs, and added in things like the actual microcontrollers. (Also, the color code is for the 2 separate purchases I made, since I didn't buy it all at once!)

Iron Patriot Motorization Costs
GLTIypc.png

Click for larger!

Like Lael, I bought the huge majority of parts through ServoCity.com. Their selection is awesome, their shipping is crazy fast, and you can really save on shipping costs by buying everything all from one shop. Also: Don't be afraid to ask about discounts! I contacted them via Twitter and got a 10% off orders over $100 coupon code.

I also bought all of my electronics through Adafruit. There are a few other electronics/Arduino retailers online, but I like them because their prices are great. And again, ask them on Twitter if they have any running coupon codes or specials and they'll help you save money!

My parts list here is missing a few things. Specifically, the gyros and all of the eye LED components. I outsourced this to a friend of mine and I haven't gotten the exact price for everything just yet. It's ~$80 for 2x gyros and 4x eyes. We had the PCBs printed from OSH Park and used SMD LEDs. Also as a note: you definitely want to buy TWO gyros, not just one! I'll go more in depth on why later once I have everything in hand and I'm putting it all together.

Also keep in mind that I bought a cast helmet here off The RPF and I put that on my parts list. If you're making your own then obviously you don't need to factor that in.

If anyone wants the actual spreadsheet I used, feel free to contact me. I need to fix a few things and add in the missing Adafruit part IDs but I'm happy to share.
 
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I'm going to learn to use excel one day.... :lol

Great price breakdown, puts into perspective how much of an investment can be expected to build this stuff. :thumbsup
 
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