I think it might be time to start a new dedicated V3 thread on how to fix these when they break. if we do this, what I suggest is that all those that have a contributing video to add, PM the OP the link to have it embedded into post #1. That way the reference material stays in one place and is easy to find.
So the batteries in the link that Jedifyfe originally posted have the same type of thing at their cable end . The white plug is different and why the 2nd link is adapter leads. This circuit would be what keeps the battery from over charging.
I spoke with the staff at my local Battery World today and he suggested that these batteries die when over drawn or drained right out. Here I was concerned about memory. So based on his suggestions, what we all need to do is work out the run time you can get (lets assume 4 hours) and either place them back on charge at that time, or turn them off. He suggested running them until they are completely flat is actually bad for LI batteries.
LINK 1 batteries
LINK 2 adaption leads
To further what @
cavx said...when your batteries "die" they aren't actually dead. The board on the top of the cell is a protection circuit, designed to cut power to the cell with over charge/discharge. You can pretty easily bring the cell back to life so it will work again, without actually buying a new battery. The circuit cuts off the battery at the 3-3.2v range. Doing this once will not hurt, but its not something you want to do constantly to a battery. (Picture it like jump starting a car battery)
Undo the yellow thermal tape expose the flat wires going to the board, connect them to a 5v 500-1000ma power supply (normal USB port will do) for about 15-30 minutes and your battery will charge enough to enable the circuit board again. You can now fully charge it with the actual shoe charger, and use it again like normal. (Its very important you get the polarity correct when charging them manually, and to not over charge) Only 15-30minutes to get the battery back up over the 3.2v DO NOT LEAVE UNATTENDED OR OVER CHARGE. And charge your shoes every 3-4 weeks even if you don't wear them.
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WOW! Really? Damn. I guess I have nothing to lose and a heap to gain here. Thank you. You really are a Wizzard!
I never received the actual charger with my shoes, so my charge set up is two USB to 0.7mm leads that I plug into a dual USB charger. Each lead has a removeable 0.7mm tip. Connecting that is simply two pins. If I remove the tip, place two thin wires inside the holes on the lead, I should have exactly what is required here.
And I will do this outside so if it blows up, damage in minimal
They actually look like different models in some of the pictures. I asked for pictures of the actual shoes. If others do it also we can compare notes after.
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This is what I don't like DLGate and other sites. They just don't offer customer service. Even $200USD is a lot of money for a pair of reps, so you'd expect to see images of the product you are buying. But unfortunately, it seems to be a case of (we think they are all the same) even though we have identified at least 6 different variances.
So from V2 (branded with boot toe box and LED lights in the sole) we have -
1. V2 well made, branded, LEDs in the sole.
2. HC (no branding, same type of lighting and even bigger toe box lots of extra stitching)
3. Sports version (no branding, same material as V2, same toe box, same sole and lights, crappy vinyl ears above the strap)
4. V2.1 R (remote controlled of V2 with light up strap)
5. V2.2 slimmed toe version of the V2 with light up strap
6. V2.3 pretty much a V3 upper with the grain running 90 degrees to the shoe and V2 sole but in light grey
The V3 the most expensive but also the most accurate MAG since the 2011 release of the real NIKE MAG. Given variant 4, 5 and 6 came out after the V3, it make you wonder why they even bothered.
@Rep_MAG_Experts, If I missed any variants, please add them in.