Mark 46 build 3D print
- Thread starter TKCC71
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TKCC71
Well-Known Member
Not sure if will come with all the Mark 46's. This was a little something I had asked them to assist with. Anyways here is the concept. Of course the unibeam will be molded and casted in clear acrylic then will add some paint detail on some of the areas. Couldn't get the printer to print the mesh in the center. Would really have to hone the FFF settings to get that to work. Will probably just find a plastic mesh screen material to substitute it.
creative stress
Well-Known Member
Seams like a lot trouble to go through to make pla flexable and smoothing it afterwards would be a nightmare may work for the inner details between bicept gauntlet but still
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Filaflex seems a bit cheaper than Ninjaflex (still way more expensive than PLA). I haven't tried either one yet, but I have a 500g roll of Ninjaflex waiting and a Flexion Extruder arriving in the mail today. Might well work for finger joints etc, although you have to be smart about print orientation, because unless you have a dual extruder printer, you can't really use support material with flexible filaments.
I watched that car body cleaner video a few months ago. For some reason, the words "toxic sludge" come to mind when I try to remember what was in it...
I watched that car body cleaner video a few months ago. For some reason, the words "toxic sludge" come to mind when I try to remember what was in it...
Leylander
Active Member
I would suggest to just use flexible filament instead. Yes it's more expensive, but it's more secure I think.
I might use flexible filament for the neck guard.The flexibility also depends on the size and thickness of the print. A boot might be flexible but not in all areas.
The abs might be an option, but also with limited movement. How would you paint flexible filament? Regular paint might just crack with all the movement it has to cope with.
+ if you use different paint, you will always notice a colour difference. So I would suggest to only use it in small areas.
I might use flexible filament for the neck guard.The flexibility also depends on the size and thickness of the print. A boot might be flexible but not in all areas.
The abs might be an option, but also with limited movement. How would you paint flexible filament? Regular paint might just crack with all the movement it has to cope with.
+ if you use different paint, you will always notice a colour difference. So I would suggest to only use it in small areas.
You can cover you paint with clear plasti so you dont see the paint crack because it avoid it to peel
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In a Youtube Q&A session last week, Bill Doran said that in order to paint foam that's meant to flex, he will use leather paints (or did he say leather pants?
and that spray paints wouldn't work, as they will crack when flexed. Of course even if the paint can/will flex, it might not stick to a particular flexible filament.Hobbyking now also carries their own line of flexible filaments. Again, no idea how they work, but I guess it's yet another lower cost option to consider.
Leylander
Active Member
In a Youtube Q&A session last week, Bill Doran said that in order to paint foam that's meant to flex, he will use leather paints (or did he say leather pants?
Hobbyking now also carries their own line of flexible filaments. Again, no idea how they work, but I guess it's yet another lower cost option to consider.
I believe that there's no real good solution to painting flexible filament yet. You can try and paint with leather paint, but you will still see the difference. Another option is trying to find filament that has the correct dye. But that would prove even more difficult.
Maybe Hydro dipping can be a solution. But I don't think it has been tried yet.
TKCC71
Well-Known Member
The unibeam is almost done, made a silicone mold and casted it in clear acrylic and then touched it up with a little paint. Just need some sort of holed mesh material in the center of the beam. Still not convinced I will use this unibeam with this but looking for your thoughts? Unibeam or no unibeam?
creative stress
Well-Known Member
It looks great.. i think it all comes down to personal preference if you want to go for screen acurate or.. not sure what the mk 46 arc reactor looks like ..for the mk 45 i looked at the hot toys version and printed as close as i could
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TKCC71
Well-Known Member
Just painted the forearm, not to happy with it, didn't come out like I expected. (A little rough actually and the tape was covering up a small portion of the area that was suppose to be red) Might have to redo it. bummer!!
Thanks Dominator. Here's one or two that might take me to page 6. Thinking I should do a mold and make a bust out of this.
Thanks Dominator. Here's one or two that might take me to page 6.
Thinking I should do a mold and make a bust out of this.
Leylander
Active Member
Do you still have pictures of that? I need one for my suit as well. I can't find any decent reference pictures.
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The arm doesn't look too bad, but the unpainted part is a bummer.
Maybe I would also try to lessen the darkening of the detail lines. Maybe it's just the picture, but it looks like they are a bit too much now.
And go for the unibeam. You have it, so why not use it?
creative stress
Well-Known Member
Just wait for the paint to harden off and resand get it smooth hit it with more primer to see where your imperfection are if your not happy you have not lost anything really
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TKCC71
Well-Known Member
That is the plan. I just picked up a new 2 part catalyst high build primer from an Automotive paint shop that I might give a go whcih is sprayed via HLVP sprayer. Curious to see how well it works.
I'm also taking a class via the Stan Winston School of Arts on line. The guy teaching the class (Fonn Davis) did all 6 star wars films, guardians of the galaxy. Interestingly he recommends using Pastikote Automotive Primer and uses it on almost all of his props. It has some sort of a really good chemical bond with plastic and sands very easy. If the 2 part doesn't work well, I might switch to the Pastikote primer based on his recommendation. Just trying find ways to speed up the process and make things easier in the final stages.
I'm also taking a class via the Stan Winston School of Arts on line. The guy teaching the class (Fonn Davis) did all 6 star wars films, guardians of the galaxy. Interestingly he recommends using Pastikote Automotive Primer and uses it on almost all of his props. It has some sort of a really good chemical bond with plastic and sands very easy. If the 2 part doesn't work well, I might switch to the Pastikote primer based on his recommendation. Just trying find ways to speed up the process and make things easier in the final stages.
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