Yah had to resolder
Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)
- Thread starter lukebrynycz
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Yah had to resolder
Kevzie
Well-Known Member
good for you, well we all know they are knock offs but for the price you still want a decent product! I'm still holding off till they fix a couple of the problems. And till I even think about ordering a pair! (Even though they look so good) hope they help you sort your problem (I feel it for you) all the best
Thanks for the kind words mate. Will see what happens.
EDIT: just compared the QC Photo to the photo I took of the Shoes I received....no strange material underneath the sole [emoji848]
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Kevzie
Well-Known Member
Hi mate. Took some photos of the box for you. Are these ok?
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DragonGalvy
Sr Member
cool, let us know if they are 2.1's. less than $200 is okay for them.
lukebrynycz
Sr Member
What is this?It looks brilliant and super bright
NickyMabbs
Well-Known Member
It's definitely there in the photos, you were never going to pick that out though. It's the angle the photo was taken at that's disguising it.
Kevzie
Well-Known Member
@Kevzie this is perfect
No problem [emoji1303]
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Kevzie
Well-Known Member
*****, well spotted, I couldn't see it until you posted that. As you say, I was never gonna pick that out from that photo!
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Been a bit busy, so posting has fallen by the wayside. I have acquired several items that will be put to good use in the future. I bought a vacuum chamber with a two stage pump. It is probably overkill, but whatever. I have some 20 lbs of silicone, enough to make a fair reproduction of Pamela Anderson. I also bought Clear Flex 50 urethane. It is UV stable, and the Shore hardness should be right in the green zone for comfort plus durability. I have the proper blue So-Strong colorant, so I will play with getting the varying levels of blue tint before committing to the specific color.
I have removed the clear soles from one of my pair's. THAT WAS A PAIN! I used a heat gun and went slow...slow...slow...I followed cavx suggestion to use a craft stick/tongue depressor around the edges, and then used a metal putty "knife" once away from the immediate edges. I tried multiple versions of separating the soles. I settled on using the craft stick to lift the clear from the midsole, and then ride the metal knife (more of a spatula as there was no cutting edge) on top of the craft stick. I tried heating the metal with the heat gun so as to spare the midsole from the extreme heat. I tried radiant heat to the clear section being worked on. Nevertheless, it is slow going if you don't want to actually cut the soles loose. I guess put it this way, the effort involved has me dreading removing the other side...and knowing full-well I have a whole other pair to do *face palm*!
I reviewed the molds made by WizardBTTF and compared them to the ones used by cloneprops. I am interested to know why Wizard opted to separate the outriggers whereas cloneprops cast that entire section as one piece? I very well might make a version of both to see how they physically compare, but I will need to settle on a semi-permanent adhesive solution if I plan to wear test them. Freesole is strong stuff! That said, its setup time is a bit long for my tastes. Given Wizard reporting it will develop air bubbles if you are not careful, there must be a viable alternative that sets faster. The adhesive industry is massive. I recognize a two part mold is the ticket, as well dropping the Clear Flex into a pressure chamber will result in the best chance for being bubble free. I have not pulled the trigger on a pressure pot, so any guidance on a suitable one is appreciated.
I have also being mulling over the ideas surrounding the lighting and lacing systems. I see the EL is not really being practical for a long term solution. 5mm RGB LEDs make the most sense as the color displayed can be controlled. Acrylite makes some excellent sheeting for dispersing the LED light from the edges, but I am likely to settle on Delrin sheeting for other reasons. The Adafruit.com controller offerings, like the Arduino make "programing" the electronics very straightforward. There are repositories that include pre-written code that can be modified simply by entering alternate time duration. There are already iOS and Android apps that will Bluetooth to a add-on board for controlling the lights displayed, in color or in pattern. The resistors on the heel boards result in the inequality of the LED's. I believe swapping the heel LEDs for 5mm RPG will also allow for the independent light control, and thereby allow the opportunity to pair them with the appropriate resistors. Jedifyfe has a very helpful YouTube videos on laying out your own heel cup board, so there is no real magic there. The Arduino controllers are simple and hardy. There are small and large, as well similar versions expressly made for clothing applications They will select and control power distribution. There are step-up and down boards enabling a varied selection of battery voltage while maintaining the needed range for the LED to excel. The best part of all the electronics is they are dirt cheap. The LEDs come individually or as assembled strips, checkout the guys knee deep in the drones to see all of the available controllers, and better pricing on the LEDs. Adafruit is a good general site, but they hike the price a bit.
I have more thoughts on a practical lacing system. Nitinol has some limits I have found, but I believe they can be overcome with reasonable accommodation. I have smiled more than once thinking of the irony of Mags and utilizing magnets. The useful life of the material includes thousands of actuation. It is seriously strong being an alloy of nickle and titanium. I see no real barriers in applying it to this application, it will enable a movie accurate lacing, and strap without the hazards of multiple moving parts. I believe the key to longevity and durability requires minimizing the number of points of failure. The controller board will handle the timing/sequence, and the Nitinol plus magnets are not mechanisms to break as they are not "moving" parts like a motor.
To RVLF, on the subject of your wooden limitation, check out thermomorph...I believe it is the droid you are looking for
Sheesh, not enough time in the day for all of these thoughts!
P.S. my wife isn't exactly happy I found this forum.
I have removed the clear soles from one of my pair's. THAT WAS A PAIN! I used a heat gun and went slow...slow...slow...I followed cavx suggestion to use a craft stick/tongue depressor around the edges, and then used a metal putty "knife" once away from the immediate edges. I tried multiple versions of separating the soles. I settled on using the craft stick to lift the clear from the midsole, and then ride the metal knife (more of a spatula as there was no cutting edge) on top of the craft stick. I tried heating the metal with the heat gun so as to spare the midsole from the extreme heat. I tried radiant heat to the clear section being worked on. Nevertheless, it is slow going if you don't want to actually cut the soles loose. I guess put it this way, the effort involved has me dreading removing the other side...and knowing full-well I have a whole other pair to do *face palm*!
I reviewed the molds made by WizardBTTF and compared them to the ones used by cloneprops. I am interested to know why Wizard opted to separate the outriggers whereas cloneprops cast that entire section as one piece? I very well might make a version of both to see how they physically compare, but I will need to settle on a semi-permanent adhesive solution if I plan to wear test them. Freesole is strong stuff! That said, its setup time is a bit long for my tastes. Given Wizard reporting it will develop air bubbles if you are not careful, there must be a viable alternative that sets faster. The adhesive industry is massive. I recognize a two part mold is the ticket, as well dropping the Clear Flex into a pressure chamber will result in the best chance for being bubble free. I have not pulled the trigger on a pressure pot, so any guidance on a suitable one is appreciated.
I have also being mulling over the ideas surrounding the lighting and lacing systems. I see the EL is not really being practical for a long term solution. 5mm RGB LEDs make the most sense as the color displayed can be controlled. Acrylite makes some excellent sheeting for dispersing the LED light from the edges, but I am likely to settle on Delrin sheeting for other reasons. The Adafruit.com controller offerings, like the Arduino make "programing" the electronics very straightforward. There are repositories that include pre-written code that can be modified simply by entering alternate time duration. There are already iOS and Android apps that will Bluetooth to a add-on board for controlling the lights displayed, in color or in pattern. The resistors on the heel boards result in the inequality of the LED's. I believe swapping the heel LEDs for 5mm RPG will also allow for the independent light control, and thereby allow the opportunity to pair them with the appropriate resistors. Jedifyfe has a very helpful YouTube videos on laying out your own heel cup board, so there is no real magic there. The Arduino controllers are simple and hardy. There are small and large, as well similar versions expressly made for clothing applications They will select and control power distribution. There are step-up and down boards enabling a varied selection of battery voltage while maintaining the needed range for the LED to excel. The best part of all the electronics is they are dirt cheap. The LEDs come individually or as assembled strips, checkout the guys knee deep in the drones to see all of the available controllers, and better pricing on the LEDs. Adafruit is a good general site, but they hike the price a bit.
I have more thoughts on a practical lacing system. Nitinol has some limits I have found, but I believe they can be overcome with reasonable accommodation. I have smiled more than once thinking of the irony of Mags and utilizing magnets. The useful life of the material includes thousands of actuation. It is seriously strong being an alloy of nickle and titanium. I see no real barriers in applying it to this application, it will enable a movie accurate lacing, and strap without the hazards of multiple moving parts. I believe the key to longevity and durability requires minimizing the number of points of failure. The controller board will handle the timing/sequence, and the Nitinol plus magnets are not mechanisms to break as they are not "moving" parts like a motor.
To RVLF, on the subject of your wooden limitation, check out thermomorph...I believe it is the droid you are looking for
Sheesh, not enough time in the day for all of these thoughts!
P.S. my wife isn't exactly happy I found this forum.
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I was just chatting with the gogoyeezy woman as well and she claims they will have real pics of their power laced version on the site soon. She also claims their hyperadapt version has power laces as well. Pretty sure it might be BS being they don't show them power lacing in any of their videos. Also the power lace mag video they posted on their IG might have been taken from https://www.instagram.com/streetveterancustoms/
I think we should just wait until David's site offers them.
lukebrynycz
Sr Member
I keep seeing this, and it's simply not true. airair did mine, and it just requires you to make the semi circles a few mm smaller than the originals. I also used cavxs clear soles, which tend to protrude a little from the soles which gives it room to flex. There is no reason that EL panels should break if done correctly. However, I would suggest adding sturdy insoles, followed by a soft one on top. This stops the shoes from flexing in the middle, causing the small bridge to snap. It's really quite simple logic.
Alternatively, add the EL panels as two separate pieces instead of the bridge and black tape.
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linkhero
Active Member
would someone here really bite at that pricepoint? that's a nice way to send $1500 down the toilet when they break and need to be fixed just to be wearable like the non-autolace V3
So, you see my personal decision that the EL panels are not a long term practical solution for me, as "simply not true"? This might be overlooking long term solutions incorporating other reasons.
On your topic, why not back the EL with carbon fiber? No cavity mods should be required to protect the panels from breaking through flexing.
Na, I'm happy with my V3s. I feel like the auto lacing thing is a gimmick at this point, and definitely not work the $1k increase.
Some sites offer the V3s at $900. So there is a high possibility that David will sell them for less.
cavx
Master Member
A 2 stage pump supposedly pulls deeper, but in the end, most vacuum pumps can only pull 1 x 10^-3 anyway. The size of the chamber and the size of the pump will determine how fast you get there. How big is your chamber? How many CFM is the pump?
ClearFlex 50 sounds like it would have a shore hardness of A50. The stuff I use is A65. So a slightly softer rubber, but it will grip really good. Having said that, my very first attempt back in 2012 was A80 and it gripped good too.
Given the master part is 2 parts, I would suggest that two parts is the way to go. I made my original V2 soles are a single piece and had all sorts of air lock issues. Breaking them down solved many of them.
I was discussing magnets with RVLF the other day. If I get time, I will mock up my strap idea.
