Project sealab
- Thread starter moffeaton
- Start date
Would it have to be an original styrene kit? Would a resin cast do? Only thing is that one piece that's molded in clear styrene/acetate.
Understandable though if they want an original kit that's unpainted.
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Would it have to be an original styrene kit? Would a resin cast do? Only thing is that one piece that's molded in clear styrene/acetate.
Understandable though if they want an original kit that's unpainted.
I have 3 Sea lab Kits.
One was partially built, fortunately not glued very well. Though it was heavily slathered in paint which I since removed and cleaned up for casting/ study.
The second kit is "cherry", the box still has old 1970's shrink wrap and the parts are in the original bags (got from an estate sale from a guy who owned a hobby shop "back in the day" )
The third kit was opened a few parts damaged but in mostly in good shape
I might consider re-assembling the "painted" one , (restored parts are primered in Tamiya grey] --may have to use "virgin"clear parts from one of the others. I would prefer to use PVA glue for a temporary bond.
Just to keep the kit together long enough for photo- shoot, video what-ever.
The kit does not have to look professionally/expertly built does it? Will just the original plastic colors do?
Also I have about 70% of the SeaLab Kit modeled in 3D in the computer, using it for various projects including the 1/12 X-Wing Build.
I have the parts modeled in both Solid-Works as NURMS files for 3D printing etc. -and also as medium-res polygon meshes for use in CGI projects
I was considering opening a Shapeways Storefront for those wanting 3D prints.. .though anyone familiar with 3D printing will tell you, unless you are working with a different than original scale (like a1/24 TIE Bomber, or a 1/12 X-wing) Castings from an original part will yield superior results.
One was partially built, fortunately not glued very well. Though it was heavily slathered in paint which I since removed and cleaned up for casting/ study.
The second kit is "cherry", the box still has old 1970's shrink wrap and the parts are in the original bags (got from an estate sale from a guy who owned a hobby shop "back in the day" )
The third kit was opened a few parts damaged but in mostly in good shape
I might consider re-assembling the "painted" one , (restored parts are primered in Tamiya grey] --may have to use "virgin"clear parts from one of the others. I would prefer to use PVA glue for a temporary bond.
Just to keep the kit together long enough for photo- shoot, video what-ever.
The kit does not have to look professionally/expertly built does it? Will just the original plastic colors do?
Also I have about 70% of the SeaLab Kit modeled in 3D in the computer, using it for various projects including the 1/12 X-Wing Build.
I have the parts modeled in both Solid-Works as NURMS files for 3D printing etc. -and also as medium-res polygon meshes for use in CGI projects
I was considering opening a Shapeways Storefront for those wanting 3D prints.. .though anyone familiar with 3D printing will tell you, unless you are working with a different than original scale (like a1/24 TIE Bomber, or a 1/12 X-wing) Castings from an original part will yield superior results.
It would not be too difficult to do full 3D renders and animation of the "assembled" Kit
Even Texture-mapped & painted as the original instructions called for.
The medium-rez poly parts I made had that kind of thing in mind.
Most of the Sea-lab parts are very simple - geometrically speaking, though I also emulate "artifacts" found on the parts that are characteristic of injection molded parts. ( i.e.: seam lines & registration points etc.)
I never had any interest/intention of modeling the Sea-floor base, but that can easily be done with a quick 3D scan and some decimation/clean-up run on the data
Even Texture-mapped & painted as the original instructions called for.
The medium-rez poly parts I made had that kind of thing in mind.
Most of the Sea-lab parts are very simple - geometrically speaking, though I also emulate "artifacts" found on the parts that are characteristic of injection molded parts. ( i.e.: seam lines & registration points etc.)
I never had any interest/intention of modeling the Sea-floor base, but that can easily be done with a quick 3D scan and some decimation/clean-up run on the data
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How about contacting this guy?
http://www.fantastic-plastic.com/SEALAB III PAGE.htm
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How about contacting this guy?
http://www.fantastic-plastic.com/SEALAB%20III%20PAGE.htm
http://www.fantastic-plastic.com/SEALAB III PAGE.htm
- - - Updated - - -
How about contacting this guy?
http://www.fantastic-plastic.com/SEALAB%20III%20PAGE.htm
Yeah Jason , I do have a lot of irons in the fire.
I don't need to tell you how busy it gets before Wonderfest.
-add to that that any paying freelance gigs and short-term contract jobs that come along have to take precedence over "hobby fun time"
Sorry for the delayed reply,
I am indeed busy. I been away forum this forum for months.
I feel stupid, I overlooked Marusuka's post on his digital build-up. Sorry, guess my post was redundant. Nice work by the way!
In the case of an analog build-up ...again, how nice does the model need to look?
The kit I have that I am willing to put back together has a lot of parts now primered in grey. (Tamiya primer)
Do you want a build-up i all colored and painted as per instructions? or can it be done as a Grey primered prototype with a few clear parts?
Send me a PM if you like to discuss in further detail.
I don't need to tell you how busy it gets before Wonderfest.
-add to that that any paying freelance gigs and short-term contract jobs that come along have to take precedence over "hobby fun time"
Sorry for the delayed reply,
I am indeed busy. I been away forum this forum for months.
I feel stupid, I overlooked Marusuka's post on his digital build-up. Sorry, guess my post was redundant. Nice work by the way!
In the case of an analog build-up ...again, how nice does the model need to look?
The kit I have that I am willing to put back together has a lot of parts now primered in grey. (Tamiya primer)
Do you want a build-up i all colored and painted as per instructions? or can it be done as a Grey primered prototype with a few clear parts?
Send me a PM if you like to discuss in further detail.
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hey Joshua,
I just checked out your SeaLab files, very nice!
and thanks very much for sharing.
I had not modeled the Cable Harness ( part # 44 & 44A) or the Upper Railing ( part #84)
check your e-mail, I'm sending you meshes of parts # 39 & #53 .
Let me know if there are any other parts you would like (also from other kits, I have a great deal of the Morser Karl & Leopold modeled) for other projects.
I just checked out your SeaLab files, very nice!
and thanks very much for sharing.
I had not modeled the Cable Harness ( part # 44 & 44A) or the Upper Railing ( part #84)
check your e-mail, I'm sending you meshes of parts # 39 & #53 .
Let me know if there are any other parts you would like (also from other kits, I have a great deal of the Morser Karl & Leopold modeled) for other projects.
if that company needs mine I will part with mine for 400.00 , it still has the factory shrink wrap stuck to the box, most all the parts are still on the tree tabs. Nothing is missing or broke. I bought it sealed but had to open it and mold 5 parts. Put them back in the box and put it on the shelf
do you have a link to the SeaLab project on KickStarter?
darth_myeek
Sr Member
Moved reply to Sealab Reissue thread.
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