Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
So do yo think I should file the existing groove forward or at the rear?
Greedo Blaster Discussion
- Thread starter deadbolt
- Start date
So do yo think I should file the existing groove forward or at the rear?
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
:lol.......
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
Here is my attempt at a 3D model of a replacement site.
http://shpws.me/vDED
Can anyone do better? :unsure
http://shpws.me/vDED
Can anyone do better? :unsure
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
Let us know when it is ready to purchase. Thanks.
toolguy301
Active Member
The latest revisions of the trans rotor pieces are now available.
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
I am still a long way off from putting this thing together but I am troubled by the overall look in which I go about painting it.
In some cases, I tend to shy away from the weathering/look of actual prop pieces. Sometimes it due to the best images being taken 20 or more years after filming and the item is much more beat up that on screen so the look is not what was intended. Or the weathering or paint is thick or the main body was resin cast and close up shots make it look obvious, or the overall weathering is ill conceived.
What I tend to prefer is something more idealized. Something that when you hold the item, it looks like a real weapon that has been well used. I am perplexed at how to go about this weapon. Do I...
...weather the weapon is areas that in real life of a prop built on a real weapon might weather and show metal such as body, metal pieces but leave areas like the grip and Tomtit parts untouched?
...weather everything as if the entire weapon is made from metal, including the Tomtit parts and grip?
... A mix of the first two... weathered except for the grips? (kind of leaning toward this)
...leave it unweathered?
Thoughts?
In some cases, I tend to shy away from the weathering/look of actual prop pieces. Sometimes it due to the best images being taken 20 or more years after filming and the item is much more beat up that on screen so the look is not what was intended. Or the weathering or paint is thick or the main body was resin cast and close up shots make it look obvious, or the overall weathering is ill conceived.
What I tend to prefer is something more idealized. Something that when you hold the item, it looks like a real weapon that has been well used. I am perplexed at how to go about this weapon. Do I...
...weather the weapon is areas that in real life of a prop built on a real weapon might weather and show metal such as body, metal pieces but leave areas like the grip and Tomtit parts untouched?
...weather everything as if the entire weapon is made from metal, including the Tomtit parts and grip?
... A mix of the first two... weathered except for the grips? (kind of leaning toward this)
...leave it unweathered?
Thoughts?
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
Are you talking about this shot?
The is the left side of the weapon. There is no ejection port on that side. So what the hell is it?
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Great! Thank you.
By any chance you think you might give the barrel a shot in the near future? I'm only asking because it would be more economical to wait and order both at the same time.
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
I guess so. But I do not see anything about that area that resembles the detail of the engine cover (this is the engine cover... right?... http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy138/OdiWan72/2014-07-0721-46-05_zpsbd54582f.jpg
It looks rectangle although I concede the resolution is not good enough to show detail.
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Roger that.... Never the less... What the hell is it?
Country Paul
Sr Member
I sat with ANH on my Ipad last night & literally tried to screenshot every second that the blaster was on screen (which isn't long) :lol
Even though it's the Ipad retina & supposedly HD copy of the film the resolution still wasn't great, I've tried to Zoom in using a photo app & enhance a bit but I'm not sure it adds anything
majority of the time it's the left side of the blaster in shot
Im sure it's been done before but if anyone wants to see some of the pictures I'll post them later (if not I'll save myself the bother :lol)
Even though it's the Ipad retina & supposedly HD copy of the film the resolution still wasn't great, I've tried to Zoom in using a photo app & enhance a bit but I'm not sure it adds anything
majority of the time it's the left side of the blaster in shot
Im sure it's been done before but if anyone wants to see some of the pictures I'll post them later (if not I'll save myself the bother :lol)
toolguy301
Active Member
MJF, I could possibly work on this over the weekend. I don't have one of these Ruger airsoft pistols so not sure exactly what the barrel diameter & the site width & height. The length is looking like it is between 2.875" to 3" long. Also what is the inside diameter of the inside of the Tomtit piece as well. Those 2 things I could figure out the rest. Any help would be appreciated.
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
These are some measurements I was working on.
The top drawing is based on the odd Ruger MK1 posted at the beginning of this thread. http://s1235.photobucket.com/user/deadbolt55/media/GreedosRuger_zps5aa77ca6.jpg.html
I tried to scale the image to life size and then take measurements so take them with a grain of salt. The length of the barrel is based on when the pistols barrel ends and that weir silver muzzle starts. I made a giant assumption that maybe the prop makers used this as the end of the barrel then mounted the tomtit part. Based on the depth of the tomtit and how much barrel is exposed, it looked like it might be possible. But it is just a guess. The 0.05" section is the amount of the barrel that gets inserted to the frame.
The bottom drawing is based on the end piece of the bull barrel I removed from the airsoft. There is a 0.05" raised lip and then a notched out area. The barrel mounts on with a set screw but I was simply planning on gluing it in place.
The Tomtit opening on the barrel side is 0.656" deep and 0.870" in diameter.
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toolguy301
Active Member
Thank you this is a big help. I should be able to come up with something similar to what you had designed but with some better resolution. I will design this to be a replace the barrel of the airsoft.
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
I figure since you might do one yourself, you want to take a shot of the rear sight. My model came out ok, but it suffers from low resolution.
Here is a side and back shot of a real Ruger MK1 sight:
The base of the real sight is .554" long x .588" wide.
but it needs to be scaled to the existing slot (using the base of the sight which came on the airsoft) is .494" long x .665" wide.
toolguy301
Active Member
The base of the site is flat? How is it attached?
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
It slides in from the side and is pressure fit. The groove is angled to match the angle of the base.
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