3d printed Star Citizen civilian space suit and behring p4sc service rifle

Its looking good chest piece is really dope. I would consider counter sinking the screws on the helmet, and perhaps consider a differ style driver. Phillips/flat combo isn't very futuristic. Maybea torx or some other speciality fastener. Keep cranking away though looks rad!

Thanks man :) Yeah they aren't my first choice for fastener but unfortunately there is a time limit. If time permits i may re form the visor and change the screws.

FYI love your Deus Ex build! I should have a Combat Rifle build in the future. Maybe we can chat ;)
 
This should be the last bit of spot filling needed! As i left the lid open all night i guess it will have to be lol.
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Boots are done (except for a few additional straps to hold the foot plate down.) ready for plasti-dip.
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All the misc stuff is done except painting and weathering.
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And some more progress shots on the Assault rifle.
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On a related note, i need to preface every reddit post with:
http://www.reddit.com/r/starcitizen/comments/2j5sa4/the_assault_rifle_is_scaled_for_50cal_rounds/">reddit.com/r/starcitizen/comments/2j5sa4/the_assault_rifle_is_scaled_for_50cal_rounds/

"Inb4 crying about the weapons designs.
Team A: these are just boring, they look like normal real-life guns!
Team B: these look silly! Real guns don't look like this!"

"That's an actual 50 cal round."
"Really."
"Really..."
 
Stayed up til 2am getting these detail lines on... There. Are. So. Many.
15569821691_d05383c95d_b.jpg15386917200_b0c4280c6d_b.jpg15386390638_29565df57b_b.jpg

The body started cracking so i had to fibreglass the inside. Painted it black when it was cured to hide anything that would show.
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Started on the red paint.
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So perfect, so clean, so red...
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So fell off the drying rack onto a pile of dirt... FRAK. Have already sanded it back a bit ready for tomorrow.
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Oh yeah and this finished :)
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Oooo cherry red looks amazing!
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First coat of satin black on the helmet. Those details came out sooooo sweet!
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First bit of weathering done.
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Body and helmet masked up ready for paint. (Already painted and there were some crackling in patches. Not sure what caused it but weathering will hide it)
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Rifle is done and sealed except for a few gold details and some labels.
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Masking is off and there is paint bleed again. (I'm either rushing or the tape is ****** lol) Weathering will fix it right up tho.
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Isn't it glorious though? :D
15597935555_bdbc61534f_b.jpg15411828178_04caaaf736_b.jpg
 
Your build is fantastic, I can't wait to see this finished.

Can you give a brief overview of how you broke up your part to be printed? Slicing up models to fit into printable chunks is a chore, I can't imagine doing a whole armor like this but clearly you have a working system.
 
Your build is fantastic, I can't wait to see this finished.

Can you give a brief overview of how you broke up your part to be printed? Slicing up models to fit into printable chunks is a chore, I can't imagine doing a whole armor like this but clearly you have a working system.

Heya Msleeper,

Sure :)
I start with a 1:1 scale human figure in netfabb which i have scaled to my height (One day ill try and scan my body... more acurate around the middle lol).
- When everything is to size i add a shell of 3mm to the entire model.
- I made a cube based on the print bed size in sketchup (just under the printer size). You can just keep adding this model to whichever thing you are working on.
- Use the cube to slice parts up to fit the printer.
- Open each part in sketchup to stitch the open faces together where they failed to triangulate in netfabb.
- Print.
- I use ABS slurry (acetone and abs scap melted into it) to glue stuff together. I think in future ill use plastic cement as this tends to crack after a bit of flexing.
 
Heya Msleeper,

Sure :)
I start with a 1:1 scale human figure in netfabb which i have scaled to my height (One day ill try and scan my body... more acurate around the middle lol).
- When everything is to size i add a shell of 3mm to the entire model.
- I made a cube based on the print bed size in sketchup (just under the printer size). You can just keep adding this model to whichever thing you are working on.
- Use the cube to slice parts up to fit the printer.
- Open each part in sketchup to stitch the open faces together where they failed to triangulate in netfabb.
- Print.
- I use ABS slurry (acetone and abs scap melted into it) to glue stuff together. I think in future ill use plastic cement as this tends to crack after a bit of flexing.

Thanks a lot! I have a couple follow up things.

Is there a reason you use sketchup to fix the model? Is it just a familiarity thing? I have problems with non-manifold models sometimes and depending on the complexity I will fix them in Blender and I find it really easy to do with that. Just curious.

Does netfabb free do the shell creation and model cutting, or are you using a paid version? I want to say I've tried using it to create shells, and I either couldn't get it to work right, or there is a paid version that I didn't have.

For smoothing out ABS parts, I just use straight acetone brushed on lightly with a chip brush, I'm not sure if that would work better than using ABS juice like you are using. I do use it to prime the printer bed for adhesion though. I take it you wear your 3D printed parts, as opposed to making a silicone mold and doing casts out of?

Thanks a lot. I'm big into 3D printing as well and I love seeing people using it to make big projects like this.
 
Thanks a lot! I have a couple follow up things.

Is there a reason you use sketchup to fix the model? Is it just a familiarity thing? I have problems with non-manifold models sometimes and depending on the complexity I will fix them in Blender and I find it really easy to do with that. Just curious.

Does netfabb free do the shell creation and model cutting, or are you using a paid version? I want to say I've tried using it to create shells, and I either couldn't get it to work right, or there is a paid version that I didn't have.

For smoothing out ABS parts, I just use straight acetone brushed on lightly with a chip brush, I'm not sure if that would work better than using ABS juice like you are using. I do use it to prime the printer bed for adhesion though. I take it you wear your 3D printed parts, as opposed to making a silicone mold and doing casts out of?

Thanks a lot. I'm big into 3D printing as well and I love seeing people using it to make big projects like this.

Yeah its a familiarity thing. I started with no 3d modeling experience and Sketchup is the easiest to bash out simple things.

I use Blender to do model smoothing and shell commands but nothing else. (Its scary to use lol) Or i get a friend to use Max/Maya.
Netfabb free does great slicing and basic repairs (although on complicated models it causes more problems that it fixes sometimes) and i believe the pro version does shell (Cant confirm first hand).
I generally only sand my 3d printed parts as acetone vapour rounds off all the sharp edges. I havent tried painting it on yet, but i have been thinking about using acetone and sandpaper to quickly take the print grain off (Untested). Currently I've been wearing the prints as they are one offs (and are under IP) but down the line ill be casting, and may even do throw away casts so they can be sanded/finished quickly.

The printer i use is the UP plus 2 which has a perf board (print bed with holes) and is rock solid for holding prints down.

Have you got any links to your 3d stuff? I'd be keen to check it out :)
 
In exactly 1 week we will be in Melb... ONE WEEK! LOL NOTSTRESSED.

So the helmet paint is done! Still needs clearcoat, fans and LEDs to be complete. Body had the dirty weathering finished, gonna scratch it up tomorrow. Then add the LEDs. The plan is to drill through the print and glue a small circle of clear acrylic to mimic and diffuse the light.
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Better light?
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Yeah its a familiarity thing. I started with no 3d modeling experience and Sketchup is the easiest to bash out simple things.

I use Blender to do model smoothing and shell commands but nothing else. (Its scary to use lol) Or i get a friend to use Max/Maya.
Netfabb free does great slicing and basic repairs (although on complicated models it causes more problems that it fixes sometimes) and i believe the pro version does shell (Cant confirm first hand).
I generally only sand my 3d printed parts as acetone vapour rounds off all the sharp edges. I havent tried painting it on yet, but i have been thinking about using acetone and sandpaper to quickly take the print grain off (Untested). Currently I've been wearing the prints as they are one offs (and are under IP) but down the line ill be casting, and may even do throw away casts so they can be sanded/finished quickly.

The printer i use is the UP plus 2 which has a perf board (print bed with holes) and is rock solid for holding prints down.

Have you got any links to your 3d stuff? I'd be keen to check it out :)

I include at least some 3D printing in all of my builds, and the ones that don't still have other 3D fabrication included (CNC, pepakura, etc.). My two most current builds are using a lot of laser cutting and will before they are done will include 3D printing.

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=227122

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=224019

I haven't done a fully 3D printed armor, but I might reconsider it after watching this build.
 
LEDs installed and and weathering finished :) Everything you see here is done! (Except for the helmet padding. Doing that in about an hour after dinner.) In hindsight i should have used blue acrylic for the LEDs as clear painted blue didn't really work out too well. At least to the level i wanted heh.
View attachment 394695View attachment 394694View attachment 394696

Twin fans and wiring. One switch for fans, the other for the LEDs. These were actually blue and were $2.50 each!
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Boots done.
View attachment 394699

To do list:
- My partner is making the grey shoulder mantle then sewing it to the flight suit. Might also take in the flight suit in one or two places.
- Attach shoulder plates with velcro.
- Add the padding to the helmet so it stays on my head lol.
- Make a sling for the rifle.

Um... that's it i think... OMG
 
Not many more things to post now :)

Helmet padding.
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Note that in practice this helmet flops around like nothing else, only the padding on the jaw stops it.
 
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