Depending on your approach you will most likely run into a classical problem when working with metal sheets, namely excess material when you manipulate more than one direction.
If you observe the finished gauntlet and the construction process closely you'll notice that he only ever bend the metal in one direction at a time. As the arm, hand and fingers are predominately tubular in shape this works well. He does some slight curving with a hammer and the knuckles are made using hammering, but mostly the gauntlet isn't made with extreme hammer forming.
As you plan to create the pauldrons (shoulder armor), greaves/sabbatons/poleyn (shin guards, boot and knee coverings respectively, I don't really know how far up the leg you want to go after all) and possibly faulds (I don't know what style of armor you want for the hips, but I approximated) you will need to create a "bowl" shape.
The reason this is problematic is because normally pepakura uses paper or cardstock as a base, after which you finish and hide the seams. This is not as easy in a metal surface.
You could either form it traditionally with a hammer and anvil setup, or you could cut the sheets, bend them into shape and weld the corners shut.
Here's the layout as I see it. Red lines are folding edges where you will either need to hammer it or weld to make the finished shape, and the blue arrows are what you can bend individually into shape. The question marks and arrows point out where the armor is rounded or otherwise shaped in two directions at once, making pepakura technique pretty much impossible without welding.
The top of the left pauldron, the entire right pauldron, the poleyn (kneecaps) and the plate on the back of the hand are all variations on "bowl shapes" which will prove somewhat problematic.
The sectioned arm part of the gauntlet could be made separately and mounted with a curving effect. Same with the lower parts of the pauldron, but the topmost part is "bowled" and has to be welded or hammered.
The right pauldron is a bowl that pretty much needs to be hammered, but you might not want that part at all so ignore it at will.
The poleyns could probably be made separately and mounted on a boiled or wetformed leather backing, but you still need to create the bowls here.
As you mentioned hammering the edges to simulate thickness I take it you have some equipment to do that, but in that case I wonder if you will achieve a quicker and better result just hammering the bowls into shape without the pepakura technique at all.
Here's another site that might have some good tips, as well as progress pictures in forging a full armor set.
http://www.armourdesign.dial.pipex.com/projb.htm