can someone give me advise for casting?

Brickxar · Feb 20, 2017

I have sculpted a hobgoblin mask that i plan to cast in silicone and have some questions for anyone who knows what their doing.
1. i plan on making a two part mold out of ultra cal 30, will this work with the silicone and get all the details from the sculpt?
2. is dragon skin 10 a good silicone to use, should i get slow medium or fast dry, and is the trial unit (1 pint bottles) enough for a mask?

p.s. i do not have a core to cast with.

ausf · Feb 20, 2017

Is there a reason why you want to use silicone for the mask?

If it's a full head and you don't have a core, I'd go with slushing latex. It'll work with your choice of gypsum, there's no worry of reacting with anything, you can build up layers and its the end it'll hold up better. Plus it's less expensive.

Of course if you're allergic to latex, it would be a bad idea.

Snikt · Feb 20, 2017

ausf said:
Is there a reason why you want to use silicone for the mask?

If it's a full head and you don't have a core, I'd go with slushing latex. It'll work with your choice of gypsum, there's no worry of reacting with anything, you can build up layers and its the end it'll hold up better. Plus it's less expensive.

Of course if you're allergic to latex, it would be a bad idea.

Everything Ausf said. Slush casting with silicone is possible, but its extremely difficult, and can be very costly. Also, if you have a lot of detail, a Ultracal mold wont capture all the detail. Silicone likes non pourus stuff to make molds out of, foam latex likes stone molds.

But if you insist on making a silicone mask youre going to need a core, and without seeing pictures, a trial size would not be enough. You should slush cast latex first man. Silicone is a tricky animal.

Brickxar · Feb 20, 2017

thanks, i was only going to use silicone because that is what i saw someone use in a youtube video.

ausf · Feb 20, 2017

On top of that, there is the strength factor.

While I use Smooth On's Smooth Sils, I can't attest to the Dragon Skin, but in my experience, I still have latex masks that are 30 years old and I use latex to cast concrete Zombie figures.

I'm not sure you'll get that performance out of Silicone, I know I have to trash molds after about 30-40 runs. My latex molds get used forever and again, high content of Portland Cement, and sand, stuff that wears your flesh away.

As Sinkt stated, I don't even know how you would slush silicone, it doesn't cling, it seeks it's level. I vacuum it for 3 minutes, pour and don't touch it for 24 hrs. Quicker cure stuff always goes south fast in my experience.

Latex doesn't need to be measured, mixed or vacuumed, just pour, twist, pour out, repeat.

Brickxar · Feb 20, 2017

Okay, final question. Is there any slushing latex that you'd recommend?

ausf · Feb 20, 2017

Don't worry about asking questions, fire away.

Back in the day, you could walk into a shop on Canal St (and I suspect dozens of places on the West Coast) and walk out with gallons of the stuff real cheap.

In the last few years I've only tried Burman's and RD407. The 407 is by a company called Monster Makers and is a better deal IMO. They've already worked in the thickeners, etc. Makes a nice cast, good detail and gives up it's ammonia pretty quick.

Brickxar · Feb 20, 2017

ausf said:
Don't worry about asking questions, fire away.

Back in the day, you could walk into a shop on Canal St (and I suspect dozens of places on the West Coast) and walk out with gallons of the stuff real cheap.

In the last few years I've only tried Burman's and RD407. The 407 is by a company called Monster Makers and is a better deal IMO. They've already worked in the thickeners, etc. Makes a nice cast, good detail and gives up it's ammonia pretty quick.

thank you for all the help on this

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

can someone give me advise for casting?

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