Blade Runner Blaster news: model kit version of the Tomenosuke Blaster is coming
- Thread starter phase pistol
- Start date
nchan, one of the reasons I finally went ahead and got this kit was seeing the Adam blaster collection video(s) on Tested
This kit deserves its place in a new collections/history of the blaster video!
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we covered some of the history in this video we posted a year ago, so i don't want to retread old territory. but a video of the build and some historical replica context is definitely in order. still crossing my fingers that daveG has a steel barrel left...
VFX Freak
Sr Member
Hello to all and thanks for posting so much useful information and so many great photos of your builds. After being away for four months I'm finally home and starting mine. I began by trying to polish up the Steyr receiver as much as possible. I've had some experience with bluing and know that the best way to get a great finish is to have the metal as mirror-like as possible. I tried steel wool and Scotch-Brite, but got the best results with a Dremel polishing pad and compound.
It's hard to photograph a reflective surface, but I'm pretty happy with the results, though the photos make it look better than it actually is.
I have a question for everybody: How far do you go in cleaning up mold lines and such? Here's a close up of the untouched bolt:
Do you file down the mold seams (the worst offender being the forward facing surface of the bolt lever) and make everything smooth before polishing it up? Or is the roughness actually an accurate copy of what the original receiver looked like? Considering German engineering and perfectionism, I'd be surprised if the Steyr receiver were this rough. What have you guys done?
Thanks and keep up the great work!
It's hard to photograph a reflective surface, but I'm pretty happy with the results, though the photos make it look better than it actually is.
I have a question for everybody: How far do you go in cleaning up mold lines and such? Here's a close up of the untouched bolt:
Do you file down the mold seams (the worst offender being the forward facing surface of the bolt lever) and make everything smooth before polishing it up? Or is the roughness actually an accurate copy of what the original receiver looked like? Considering German engineering and perfectionism, I'd be surprised if the Steyr receiver were this rough. What have you guys done?
Thanks and keep up the great work!
got my assembly kit today--it's beautiful! going to blue the metal parts this weekend with the birchwood casey bluing kit and this color guide: Propsummit.com a Blade Runner Prop Community Forum BladeRunnerProps.comView topic - Correct Blueing shades?
what are your recommendations for painting the the side covers and grip frame? i saw glossy halfords paint recommended earlier, but prefer semi-gloss or matte myself.
likely going to go with semi-gloss black for the side covers, and either heavy blueing or matte black for the grip handles. thoughts?
what are your recommendations for painting the the side covers and grip frame? i saw glossy halfords paint recommended earlier, but prefer semi-gloss or matte myself.
likely going to go with semi-gloss black for the side covers, and either heavy blueing or matte black for the grip handles. thoughts?
Fistfulofmetal
New Member
I made a thread on Tested.com about this prop replica inquiring about an Ebay listing. Norm Chan replied told me about the distributor and provided me his email. I was ready to buy the kit but it looks like Norm bought one of the last ones only days ago and now they're unfortunately sold out.
So now I wait until they go back in production. The gentleman, Mune, says he'll let me know when they become in stock. Gonna be hard waiting.
So now I wait until they go back in production. The gentleman, Mune, says he'll let me know when they become in stock. Gonna be hard waiting.
Norm,
Krylon Semi-Flat or Satin Black looks really sharp for the side covers and frame. I recommend that you sand the surface of all the metal parts, progressively with 320, then 400, then 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper using plenty of water. Not only to get rid of the mold lines but also to get rid of the "cast" surface look of the zinc castings. Try to sand only back and forth in one direction (along the length of the receiver, for example). And it'll look so much better with my barrel that way!
Have fun, shoot video!
VFX, I got rid of the seams on my lever. Especially that ugly circle. Can you point out the specific polising pad and compound you used?
For the side covers, I find they look more 'real' if you paint them satin and then polish them up with Novis Plastic Polish.
For the side covers, I find they look more 'real' if you paint them satin and then polish them up with Novis Plastic Polish.
VFX Freak
Sr Member
DaveG, thanks for the sanding tips. I was afraid you'd say that. I hate sanding.
Clutch, here's a crappy cell phone shot showing the Dremel polishing compound and disks. The small disks are pretty useless because they wear out almost instantly. I've just done the outer face of the bolt handle and it really works.
Clutch, here's a crappy cell phone shot showing the Dremel polishing compound and disks. The small disks are pretty useless because they wear out almost instantly. I've just done the outer face of the bolt handle and it really works.
hi carson! thanks for the tip too.
going to the auto and hardware store saturday to pick up primer/paint and sandpaper, and blueing kit arrives tomorrow. hoping to get all the sanding/painting/blueing done over the weekend. here's my order of operations:
1. sand all the metal parts using daveg's recommendations of 320/400/600 wet + dry
2. prime and paint side covers and grip frame. (skipping the polish because i prefer a little more matte than shiny)
3. blue all the metal parts
4. wait 24 hours
5. drink beer, take photos
which parts would i want to use Eagle One's Nevr Dull polish?
going to the auto and hardware store saturday to pick up primer/paint and sandpaper, and blueing kit arrives tomorrow. hoping to get all the sanding/painting/blueing done over the weekend. here's my order of operations:
1. sand all the metal parts using daveg's recommendations of 320/400/600 wet + dry
2. prime and paint side covers and grip frame. (skipping the polish because i prefer a little more matte than shiny)
3. blue all the metal parts
4. wait 24 hours
5. drink beer, take photos
which parts would i want to use Eagle One's Nevr Dull polish?
Edit to include link to the VCRA section 37
Hi Folks I am a lurker (love the RPF) who finally joined up as I want to help the UK guys, and anyone else who have been unlucky with imports. This is my experience with importing and I'm no lawyer but it seems to have worked for me.
So sorry in advance if this doesn't concern you for the LONG post.
The issue I found is not with the HMRC directly, its with the Police in the UK. Replica fire arms are banned under the "Violent Crime Reduction Act 2006" (VCRA 2006) it doesn't matter if it can be fired or not if it resembles a pistol or a fire arm it is now illegal to import one and considered a crime. Some customs agents can just decide to seize it there and then, but they are inconsistent, as many other replicas make it into the UK without trouble, Master Reps blasters for eg. but again not always without issue.
However having said that there are exceptions built in to the Act itself. The one I used is 'section 37 of the VCRA 2006;
It is a reasonable defence, against the offence of 'importing a replica fire arm' if it is for your business.
eg. as reference material for art work, for use as reference to make 3D models/animation, for use as a prop in TV or Film, etc. This is quite a wide exception and many of us can find a way to be exempt under this loophole.
Here is a link to section 37 http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2006/38/section/37 (or type in violent crime reduction act section 37 to google)
Its a risk to be fair .. if you were called up and asked to show "the paintings" you were doing of the BR blaster and couldn't? But it would be arguably a legitimate use if you were planning to sell prints of those paintings.
I happen to work in 3D animation and therefore I will use the piece as reference material and inspiration, to be held in a collection of such pieces, but I had to contact the metropolitan police to get agreement that my reason for import was really an exception allowed under section 37, which it was.
Disclaimer- The above is not advice on how to break the law but to point out the grey areas in the VCRA act.
Anyway once I had a letter with all this information worded correctly I asked Mune to include it in and outside the package.
I was so lucky that there were any left! as it took me a month or so of back and forth with the Met Police, and by the sounds of things I was quite lucky mine got through customs after being held up for a week.
Its not actually in my hands yet but Parcel force told me it was released to my local depot and I have to go collect it and pay the import duty/charge on Sat.
Here is a copy of the text I included in my letter minus the specific contact details I have for a 'fire arms' officer in London who helped me (PM me if you want his details).
I hope this may help Marv and others when dealing with customs.
Customs Compliance Notice And Disclaimer
This prop replica is a museum quality reproduction of a fanciful prop featured in a major motion picture. It is a nonfunctional collectable which does not represent or imitate an existing weapon, and which complies with the acceptable legal requirements to safety.
This prop replica is intended primarily and as reference for 3D Film/Tv/Advertising (which is my business).
If there is any problems please contact XXXX@XXXX Ph:XXXXX
I have received advice on the acceptable import of this replica prop from the Metropolitan Police,
p.s. very sad I missed the steel barrels but just wanted to thank DaveG for getting back to me on that never the less
I may be back for build tips
Good Luck
E
Hi Folks I am a lurker (love the RPF) who finally joined up as I want to help the UK guys, and anyone else who have been unlucky with imports. This is my experience with importing and I'm no lawyer but it seems to have worked for me.
So sorry in advance if this doesn't concern you for the LONG post.
The issue I found is not with the HMRC directly, its with the Police in the UK. Replica fire arms are banned under the "Violent Crime Reduction Act 2006" (VCRA 2006) it doesn't matter if it can be fired or not if it resembles a pistol or a fire arm it is now illegal to import one and considered a crime. Some customs agents can just decide to seize it there and then, but they are inconsistent, as many other replicas make it into the UK without trouble, Master Reps blasters for eg. but again not always without issue.
However having said that there are exceptions built in to the Act itself. The one I used is 'section 37 of the VCRA 2006;
It is a reasonable defence, against the offence of 'importing a replica fire arm' if it is for your business.
eg. as reference material for art work, for use as reference to make 3D models/animation, for use as a prop in TV or Film, etc. This is quite a wide exception and many of us can find a way to be exempt under this loophole.
Here is a link to section 37 http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2006/38/section/37 (or type in violent crime reduction act section 37 to google)
Its a risk to be fair .. if you were called up and asked to show "the paintings" you were doing of the BR blaster and couldn't? But it would be arguably a legitimate use if you were planning to sell prints of those paintings.
I happen to work in 3D animation and therefore I will use the piece as reference material and inspiration, to be held in a collection of such pieces, but I had to contact the metropolitan police to get agreement that my reason for import was really an exception allowed under section 37, which it was.
Disclaimer- The above is not advice on how to break the law but to point out the grey areas in the VCRA act.
Anyway once I had a letter with all this information worded correctly I asked Mune to include it in and outside the package.
I was so lucky that there were any left! as it took me a month or so of back and forth with the Met Police, and by the sounds of things I was quite lucky mine got through customs after being held up for a week.
Its not actually in my hands yet but Parcel force told me it was released to my local depot and I have to go collect it and pay the import duty/charge on Sat.
Here is a copy of the text I included in my letter minus the specific contact details I have for a 'fire arms' officer in London who helped me (PM me if you want his details).
I hope this may help Marv and others when dealing with customs.
Customs Compliance Notice And Disclaimer
This prop replica is a museum quality reproduction of a fanciful prop featured in a major motion picture. It is a nonfunctional collectable which does not represent or imitate an existing weapon, and which complies with the acceptable legal requirements to safety.
This prop replica is intended primarily and as reference for 3D Film/Tv/Advertising (which is my business).
If there is any problems please contact XXXX@XXXX Ph:XXXXX
I have received advice on the acceptable import of this replica prop from the Metropolitan Police,
p.s. very sad I missed the steel barrels but just wanted to thank DaveG for getting back to me on that never the less
I may be back for build tips
Good Luck
E
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deadbolt
Sr Member
Hi Norman, glad to see you around the RPF!
The nevr dull would be mainly for prepping the blued parts, but it's all up to what kind of look your going for in certain areas. I agree that progressively sanding as DaveG suggested would definitely be a good idea before any sort of finishing though.
Sanding first and then polishing with nevr dull could get the parts looking pretty close to this one on the Tomenosuke site:
Too bad they sold out. Does anyone know if they're really planning on producing more kits? I've never really been much of a blade runner fan, but I do quite admire the look and quality of this blaster kit..
-Carson
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ah, i think i'm going to skip the nevr dull because i don't want my pkd to have a shiny look, even before the bluing. i really like the worldcon finish--a little old and used up.
as for the kits, the assembly kit was set at 300 units worldwide, and the next thing they have announced is a rubber stunt pistol (no pricing yet). there was also a rumor that they would do another pro run (even higher grade), but my guess is that this is past assembly kit run was the last one for a while.
as for the kits, the assembly kit was set at 300 units worldwide, and the next thing they have announced is a rubber stunt pistol (no pricing yet). there was also a rumor that they would do another pro run (even higher grade), but my guess is that this is past assembly kit run was the last one for a while.
deadbolt
Sr Member
Yeah it's a tad messy, it usually turns to an oily black film as you polish. Like you said cleaning or degreasing after using that stuff would definitely be a good idea before applying any other finish.
Fistfulofmetal mentioned a few posts back that Mune may have said something about kits coming back in stock, I wonder if they're really planning on making more?
-Carson
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staermose
Sr Member
Here is what I know
1. A few weeks ago there was still a few of the assembly kit left. If you want one, write to them and ask if these has been sold since then.
2. The next version will be the black rubber edition.
3. After that there will come a new retail edition. Fully assembled and finished.
I don't have specific release dates nor final prices for the latter two.
1. A few weeks ago there was still a few of the assembly kit left. If you want one, write to them and ask if these has been sold since then.
2. The next version will be the black rubber edition.
3. After that there will come a new retail edition. Fully assembled and finished.
I don't have specific release dates nor final prices for the latter two.
