Skyrim Dragonplate Armor

Vrogy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 27, 2013

• #1

Doin' it.

Plan is to cut these with a gazelle or craft robo or CNC laser or something- sure as hell won't be by hand. Then assemble, resin, fiberglass, and a thin layer of paperclay, some hand-carved and cut detail passes, weathering, sealant, paint, straps, leatherwork, etc. Some foam-skinning for the metal trimming, in spots.

Made most of the models

dagonbawn.c4d * by vrogy, on Flickr

Made most of the pep files

Dragonbone Pauldron in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Thigh in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Knee in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Sabaton in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Greave in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Forearm in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr

need to finish models and unfolds, cut, and assemble.

 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 29, 2013

• #2

FInished the chest models, just need to finish up the belt and skirt pieces now.

Dragonbone breastplate in Cinema 4D by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone breastplate in Cinema 4D by vrogy, on Flickr


Going to try to meet a fellow Making Awesome member with one of these soon: BossKut Gazelle - YouTube

 

Last edited: Jun 29, 2013

K

Ken Ujio

New Member

• Jun 30, 2013

• #3

wow good i want kicg lich armor ^_^

 

Ciano930

Well-Known Member

• Jun 30, 2013

• #4

These look class! good luck man hope it all works out!

 

MrCafe

Active Member

• Jun 30, 2013

• #5

Can not wait to see when you get this going.

 

G

Gladius

Active Member

• Jun 30, 2013

• #6

Looks like ALOT of work man, can't wait to see how you do it!

 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 1, 2013

• #7

Here's a knee. Put this together last night while the CNC plotter/cutter zipped out 20 pages.

Got a decent workflow set up for that, as well- for the Bosskut Gazelle, I export EMF files from Pepakura, then run that file through Coreldraw to separate out pages and use the oldest autocad export profile to save out DXFs. I run those with the driver and software originally intended for the 'CutOK DC330', which has a suspiciously similar design to the gazelle, and it cuts OK.


100_0419.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

It fits well. These pants drape off my leg a bit, coverage over the sides of the knee is pretty good.

100_0420.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

 

fallimar

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jul 1, 2013

• #8

Wow! I'll be very interested to see how this goes. Love the knee, very accurate. I'm particularly interested to see how the scaling works and how easy it'll be to get into the armour once it's all rigid. That's always my big worry!

 

The Death Angel

Active Member

• Jul 1, 2013

• #9

I'f you need i can make the unfold for foam ^_^

 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 2, 2013

• #10

Greave cut. Will need some trimming of the top and bottom flanges to fit, but I checked the model and it clips there, too.


100_0422.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr


100_0424.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

Forearm, foot, and thigh armor all cut out too.

 

Ciano930

Well-Known Member

• Jul 2, 2013

• #11

This is looking really awesome! havent seen a good dragonplate armour yet!

 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 2, 2013

• #12

FInished the helmet unfold.

Dragonbone Helmet in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr

Also, here's an overall composite of things, as they should look

dbone_compall by vrogy, on Flickr

 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 4, 2013

• #13

Helmet front together.

100_0432.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

 

Ciano930

Well-Known Member

• Jul 4, 2013

• #14

Looks good!

 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 5, 2013

• #15

Trying an alternate method for pepakura-to-wearable-stuffs
Theoretically, you build the papercraft with tabs out, then brush the inside with cheap silicone, and slush inside smoothcast, or other urethane resins.
The silicone acts as a throw-away mold release, and you tear off and toss out the papercraft.
I've only seen a few finished things with this method, not pictures of the process, so I'm skeptical. I'll also be testing out the paperclay coating method over an identical fiberglass-reinforced piece.

So I rebuilt the knee tabs-out.

100_0438.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr


100_0440.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr


100_0439.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr
I might see about mixing in dye or something next time just to help make sure it's covered well- white against white.. easy to miss spots.

 

orhadar

Well-Known Member

• Jul 6, 2013

• #16

great job, really wanna see the finished product

 

Spardax

Active Member

• Jul 6, 2013

• #17

Wow! Awesome work! The 3D model is wonderful

 

Vrogy

Well-Known Member

• Jul 6, 2013

• #18

Here's results of slushing smoothcast 300 inside the silicone-lined pepakura:

100_0443.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr


100_0445.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

Brush strokes everywhere. It's also a bit thin at the edges. I think something like 65D with a thicker consistency would fare better in this application, and I've read that silicone can be thinned down with various stuff- that may alleviate the brush strokes showing through.

 

Ciano930

Well-Known Member

• Jul 8, 2013

• #19

Vrogy said:

Here's results of slushing smoothcast 300 inside the silicone-lined pepakura:
[url]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3744/9222904170_0d6078a4ec_z.jpg[/url]
100_0443.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

[url]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/9220129939_1530eb4550_z.jpg[/url]
100_0445.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

Brush strokes everywhere. It's also a bit thin at the edges. I think something like 65D with a thicker consistency would fare better in this application, and I've read that silicone can be thinned down with various stuff- that may alleviate the brush strokes showing through.

Click to expand...

If you ask me this being bone armour the brush strokes look really really awesome and add so much to the texture, I'd just leav them as they are! reinforced but as it is!

 

Kilryth

New Member

• Jul 8, 2013

• #20

Beautiful work!!! Wow!