New Star Trek TOS Phaser coming November 2014

I have so many pic's of phaser's. I probably did get them mixed up Rob. question If i may please. the phaser autopsy video. what phaser was that one ?
 
Well, I was inspired by Myron, here are the guts of my Wand P1. My P1 body isn't actually welded, it's glued with cyanoacrylate (super glue). You can see some fogging on the plastic from the glue. I created and printed settings gauge graphics, the dimensions are roughly 3/4 x 5/16 in inches. Instead of scraping off the existing gauge graphics and masking the LED, I placed mine over the top of the existing graphics so the original settings still show through. The circuit board is only held in by the one plastic clip in the middle. The 2 clips near the bottom/back of the P1 circuit board are for the 6 pin connector. I am seriously impressed with all that went in to essentially a totally redesign the internals, the design so clean. The metal parts, while unpolished are awesome, not just a replica of the existing parts but a redesign, for example the 3 braces on the side rails . Nice work Wand Company.

Greg

WandP1Portrait.png WandP1Landscape1.png WandP1Landscape2.png
 
Well, I was inspired by Myron, here are the guts of my Wand P1. My P1 body isn't actually welded, it's glued with cyanoacrylate (super glue). You can see some fogging on the plastic from the glue. I created and printed settings gauge graphics, the dimensions are roughly 3/4 x 5/16 in inches. Instead of scraping off the existing gauge graphics and masking the LED, I placed mine over the top of the existing graphics so the original settings still show through. The circuit board is only held in by the one plastic clip in the middle. The 2 clips near the bottom/back of the P1 circuit board are for the 6 pin connector. I am seriously impressed with all that went in to essentially a totally redesign the internals, the design so clean. The metal parts, while unpolished are awesome, not just a replica of the existing parts but a redesign, for example the 3 braces on the side rails . Nice work Wand Company.

Greg

View attachment 414214 View attachment 414215 View attachment 414216


Nice. thanks GregH. and we have total dissection of P1. man! they sure put the side rails In well..
 
Wow...You guys really search for any possible nuance, nook or cranny..and based on all the pics I have seen here on originals..it would be virtually impossible to have a "dead on " phaser , as I have said before..they all had individual characteristics, and not all made exactly the same...
 
If I was going to do any "modifications" I might have looked into dissecting mine..But I feel they did such a fantastic job, to me, its great as it is..The inner tube of the beam emitter on my nozzle is kind of "wobbly"..so Greg, I guess your next project will be to break down the lower half..then I might see whats causing the inner tube to wobble..
 
I tapped the brass tab on my build, because I thought it was more elegant than gluing a nut on it. Maybe that's where you got the thought.




Three clues. GJ and Finney have different nozzle positions, Finney must be 1/8in higher.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r219/robn1/Hero Phaser/gj-finney_zps567eafb2.jpg

GJ fin cut out is more square on the left side, and the release pin hole is larger.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r219/robn1/Hero Phaser/gj-finneyfins_zpsc46d70d2.jpg

And the cracked tower happened when it was a B&W, the break is visible through the window in "Charlie X".
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r219/robn1/Hero Phaser/bampwgj-break_zps58139464.jpg

The King does have the side ribs, it's obvious in motion but very faint in stills. The light is washing out the shadows.
And I'm convinced on the double screws, these marks are too much alike to be anything else.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/...onscience-leftscrew-rearscrew_zps34e0b648.jpg
Now that's interesting... Not 100% convinced about the nozzle position because of the angles of the photos, but the fin detail is obviously different, as are the fins themselves. And now I'm on the fence about the screws. Good stuff. :)

However, doesn't this screen cap appear to show the crack on the Finney phaser? Looks like it to me. That would mean they're the same prop, not two different ones.

FinneyCrack.jpg
 
LOL..I must have been "prophetic"..Just saw an MR sell for $685.00 on 12/7/2014...he did say it works intermittently, and belivies it is the handle, but it does work...item #
351242019032, and you all know what site it sold on, I'm sure...Not sure if I can say the here or not..

.
 
LOL..I must have been "prophetic"..Just saw an MR sell for $685.00 on 12/7/2014...he did say it works intermittently, and belivies it is the handle, but it does work...item #
351242019032, and you all know what site it sold on, I'm sure...Not sure if I can say the here or not..

.
That is how I got mine for 250.00. They thought it didn't work, but turned out to be the handle connection. lol!!! My 100.00 mr tricorder was just a missing magnet in the head.
 
Has anyone had theirs act up? I just got this second one from ThinkGeek today, and the knob seemed hard to turn while going through the various settings, and suddenly I notice that the pistol emitter wasn't lighting up, and the P1 emitter was. Turning the knob didn't change the setting, and it kept lighting the P1 emitter. I turn it on and off, and it finally started working. It did it again just a minute ago, plus, while going through the settings while checking it out, it gave me bridge computer sounds, and also the female program voice said "Sorry". Excellent.

I noticed the prievious one did the P1 emitter thing a couple of times too, but seemed to work after that. Has anyone else had any weird issues with theirs similar to this?

I also noticed the crystal knob on this one rattles, whereas the other one didn't. Seems they'd all fit the same, being formed the same.
 
Has anyone had theirs act up? I just got this second one from ThinkGeek today, and the knob seemed hard to turn while going through the various settings, and suddenly I notice that the pistol emitter wasn't lighting up, and the P1 emitter was. Turning the knob didn't change the setting, and it kept lighting the P1 emitter. I turn it on and off, and it finally started working. It did it again just a minute ago, plus, while going through the settings while checking it out, it gave me bridge computer sounds, and also the female program voice said "Sorry". Excellent.

I noticed the prievious one did the P1 emitter thing a couple of times too, but seemed to work after that. Has anyone else had any weird issues with theirs similar to this?

I also noticed the crystal knob on this one rattles, whereas the other one didn't. Seems they'd all fit the same, being formed the same.

Yes I have. It must be a programming thing. It seems that shutting it off, and turning it back on resets it. Kind of like resetting an ipod. The computer sound seems to happen sometimes when pressing the trigger many times while switching through the sounds.
 
Has anyone had theirs act up? I just got this second one from ThinkGeek today, and the knob seemed hard to turn while going through the various settings, and suddenly I notice that the pistol emitter wasn't lighting up, and the P1 emitter was. Turning the knob didn't change the setting, and it kept lighting the P1 emitter. I turn it on and off, and it finally started working. It did it again just a minute ago, plus, while going through the settings while checking it out, it gave me bridge computer sounds, and also the female program voice said "Sorry". Excellent.

I noticed the prievious one did the P1 emitter thing a couple of times too, but seemed to work after that. Has anyone else had any weird issues with theirs similar to this?

I also noticed the crystal knob on this one rattles, whereas the other one didn't. Seems they'd all fit the same, being formed the same.

One of the pitfalls with overseas manufacturing..any company that contracts work here, can't periodically visit to check quality control..They can actually, but don't..
So far , my only issue was the first previous one I got in, the metal nozzle, was obviously assembled crooked, causing the beam emitter to be crooked, hnce the telescoping beam emitter didn't work right due to that, the trigger was crooked, and the dilithium crystal cell door wouldn't open...however, all electronics worked well..The only issue with my replacement that I received yesterday seems to be a somewhat loose wobbly inner tube in the beam emitter...Not a big enough issue to send it back, unless it falls out within the 90 day warranty..my guess is it wont...I would recommend you send it back..If the electronics aren't reliable this early on, I wouldn't take the chance of keeping it..
 
This thread just gets better and better. The Wand p1 has been dissected (hopefully the p2 will get the same treatment). And I never tire of the hero phaser pictures and screencaps.

So, whats the opinions from the experts on the p1 and p2 color? I looked over the old threads about the paint colors.. Zynolyte and Krylon. Never got around to buying them. I know the p1 is black on the Wand so it's not the Zynolyte.

What about the p2? Is it what Krylon would look like? Does the Krylon give the blue/grey appearance?
 
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One of the pitfalls with overseas manufacturing..any company that contracts work here, can't periodically visit to check quality control..They can actually, but don't..
So far , my only issue was the first previous one I got in, the metal nozzle, was obviously assembled crooked, causing the beam emitter to be crooked, hnce the telescoping beam emitter didn't work right due to that, the trigger was crooked, and the dilithium crystal cell door wouldn't open...however, all electronics worked well..The only issue with my replacement that I received yesterday seems to be a somewhat loose wobbly inner tube in the beam emitter...Not a big enough issue to send it back, unless it falls out within the 90 day warranty..my guess is it wont...I would recommend you send it back..If the electronics aren't reliable this early on, I wouldn't take the chance of keeping it..

SOMETHING is definitely screwed up on this one. Messing it with just now to see if it would act up again, I was trying the gestures while set on 0 per the instructions to get "ship sounds', and it stuck on one and you couldn't get it to stop, Finally, twisting the button a few times made it stop. It also said "Sorry" several times while moving it. The other one did the emitter crap a few times but seemed ok after that. I'm not having good luck here..... Looks like THIS one is going back too. :facepalm

Edited to add: I tried it again, and this time got "Sorry...sorry...sorry...sorry" over and over from the female voice. :lol Oh man.... well, wish me luck that the replacement that is coming from Star Trek.com for the first one is ok, and that the replacement from ThinkGeek is ok for THIS one. ONE has to work!
 
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Well, I don't know about "generally accepted" anything in this hobby. Even when something is firmly established from a known original, there's no shortage of people who dispute it.
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But I meant 2 pistols and 3 P1s.

My comment is more of an educated guess based on what was seen on the show, plus experience and common sense. One regular hero P1 for each pistol, plus one with Velcro for when an actor has it on his belt. The heroes were expensive and time-consuming to make, so I can't think of a reason they'd make any more than the three we see.

But I think we'll really learn the truth when TOS comes out in 4K.
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Yeah I'd always assumed only two hero pistols were made - with the hero p1s belonging to those pistols. Because of the expense of the hero units I figured that they'd build an absolute minimum of them. Be interesting if there were 3 p1s though. Maybe one day we'll know for sure.. :)
 
...Be interesting if there were 3 p1s though. Maybe one day we'll know for sure.. :)

We know for sure that there were three hero P1s. The red jewel and the blue watch crown, both seen on screen at the same time in "Assignment: Earth", and the GJ with Velcro and no jewel.
 
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