ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!

Washing the vest wasn't as scary as dying it, but I also knew it was version 1 -- and I was trying everything to make it work. The wax looks really great. I think that might be exactly what I need to tone down the shininess on my polyester and to give a little more heft to the pocket twill. I have a feeling they must have done so many different things to breakdown /weather/ age that vest.

The tie tacking/ quilting works really well if you have enough loft to the filling. A small (about 1/4"-1/2"), tight cross stitch at each corner does just enough to pull it into place.
 
Fantastic! Screen caps FTW!

I could be just tired or I'm just not visualizing it properly, but I'm trying to figure out how to attach my waist band to my vest to get the same sort of look Jyn has. I looked back and saw a few posts in the thread that mentioned how to make the waistband itself, but I couldn't really get a good sense of how to stitch the darned thing to the vest. Any tips?
 
Fantastic! Screen caps FTW!

I could be just tired or I'm just not visualizing it properly, but I'm trying to figure out how to attach my waist band to my vest to get the same sort of look Jyn has. I looked back and saw a few posts in the thread that mentioned how to make the waistband itself, but I couldn't really get a good sense of how to stitch the darned thing to the vest. Any tips?

Yes! I did this tonight, actually. On the unfinished bottom of the vest you'll want to secure the right side of the waistband to the right side of the vest with the unfinished edges of both lined up. Then you simply stitch across. Then, turn the waistband down, and though the lining will still be loose, you can use the lining to cover up the unfinished edge of the waistband on the inside of the vest. I still have to stitch down the lining, which will probably be done with handstitching, but it'll be worth it, I think. I hope this makes sense!
 
Fun note: going frame-by-frame through the scene where Cassian is taking the lock picks out of his boot, you can see that the whole outer edge of the underside of the boot flap is one big piece of black velcro (the hook side, if you wanted to be super nitpicky!) You can't see the attachment side, though.

Dang, that's so much easier than what I did with the snaps. And it would work better, too.
 
Hello friends! I've been ghosting here since the beginning and starting my own build, I've finally finished the major sewing pieces and made an account.
I debuted my costume, sans gloves and boots, at Wondercon.

17553549_10212348926586477_8239566623877056010_n_zps11v26p51.jpg

I used the Czech M60 backpack for the day and from my own experience, if your going to go so far as to carry the back pack, I highly recommend altering the straps to take off the vintage fasting pieces. The very same clips we all are harvesting for the vest. They look plenty cool but it is terribly annoying to refasten them on every time you take off the backpack. I've only just now found the image of Felicity carrying the bag, on a single shoulder, but it's visible to see that after market pieces were put on.

Has anyone had any luck with finding fabric and a good base pattern to start her coat?
 
Restill, thank you!! My tired flu brain just could not figure this out that night. I appreciate the help. Hand stitching my lining today at lunch.
 
Restill, thank you!! My tired flu brain just could not figure this out that night. I appreciate the help. Hand stitching my lining today at lunch.

It's my pleasure! I wish I could hand-stitch the lining today at lunch, it's been pinned down and is all ready for me to do. All I want to do is go home and finish the vest, but there's WORK work to be done...grumble, grumble.
 
In countdown mode here, and I'm down to the last few things -- vest, boot flaps, and gloves. Pattern for the vest is pretty well done, aside from the pockets. What dimensions did you guys use for your bellows pocket? I'm estimating a completed size of about 5" wide by 8" tall, based on the placement and reference images. I wasn't expecting them to be that large, but any smaller and it doesn't look right, when compared.

The boots have been a fiasco. Because I value my feet, I purchased a pair of used Ariat paddock boots off eBay for about $30, knowing that they would be comfy and that I could wear them all day wandering the floor with very little fatigue. The biggest catch was that they were more of a cordovan color than brown, so I stripped them and recolored with Fiebing's medium brown. The coloring looked good -- worn, even -- until I added the acrylic top coat. Not only did the Resolene darken them considerably, the finish was too shiny, even after I had thinned the mix to a 1:1 ratio, Resolene and water. I also didn't like the way it was just sitting on the surface, especially in the creases; I was afraid it would eventually crack under normal wear and tear. I ended up stripping them a second time and searching out a different way of weatherproofing. I ended up with the Frye Weatherproofing Cream. It's an oil-based product that is supposed to condition the leather while offering weather resistance. Because it's oil-based and the boots were essentially unfinished, it also darkened the leather considerably -- but the finish was much nicer. The leather is still soft with a warm finish, but does not have the shine I was getting with the Resolene. I think I might try the Angelus Matte Finisher if I ever attempt this type of thing again.

The gloves, I'm torn: The Black Diamond gloves are still too large, and if I stitch them, I'm going to have to do it by hand... or completely disassemble the gloves. Because they trimmed their seam allowances down to about 1/8", that's a little impractical. I have a glove pattern ready to go (even with the extra stitching and element placement added), but am hesitant, especially as I'm now getting into the home stretch. Ideally, most anything else will get completed this weekend, so I can have a couple of days to pack other things and just breathe.

Dear Husband is helping with prop painting, though I spent part of today getting the initial layers of filler primer on. The 3D prints from Traywick Designs are really excellent, but there are some ridges in the trigger guard area that are going to be a beast to sand and smooth. Probably going to have to bust out the wood filler for those... and that's going to be me, not DH. I used the stuff pretty extensively to smooth out my worbla-based Sif sword a few years ago, so I'm more familiar with the concept. (He also has a SW Destiny tournament this weekend, cutting in to his assistance time. ::chuckles:: )

I can't believe it's almost time. DH surprised me with this about a month ago, and I've almost managed to put this together. Thankfully, I'll have more time to tweak and complete other projects before Comicpalooza and DragonCon (Hera, Kanan, and Kallus; repairs to DH's Hawkeye for CP).
 
Has anyone had any luck with finding fabric and a good base pattern to start her coat?

Welcome to the RPF, instarlight! Great job on the costume so far -- can't wait to see the whole kit together. And a good pic, too! =D

I've started looking at the jacket though, due to time constraints, I haven't started on it yet. I picked up a copy of Kwik Sew 3890, which I thought would serve as a good base. I doodled a few notes on a copy of the line drawings on the back of the envelope:

KS3890_Jyn_Notes.jpg

I started this, of course, before the video was available, so some of those doodles will have to change in light of actual reference photos. And only if I can stop getting engrossed in the story again long enough to pay attention to the back of her jacket...

For the fabric, I picked up a few yards of the Kaufman Fineline Twill in Evergreen. It's lightweight enough to deal with summer/fall in FL and GA, and still have enough body to provide proper shaping. The shade of olive is slightly too light. I planned to tone it down as I plan to do so with my vest fabric -- a bath in some chicory coffee. My initial fabric tests with the coffee age it slightly and give it a touch more brown -- enough so that I think it will be passable. I'm continuing to look around, though, for a lighter weight canvas that I like, even if I have to break down and learn to dye it.

I also picked up a sample of the Kaufman Montauk Twill in "Pond." It was darker and slightly than the Fineline Twill, so it may be better suited for some folks. I'll post a pic of the two, if I can find my sample.

The Kona Cotton OD Green is actually a good shade, but probably a little too lightweight.
 
Dear Husband is helping with prop painting, though I spent part of today getting the initial layers of filler primer on. The 3D prints from Traywick Designs are really excellent, but there are some ridges in the trigger guard area that are going to be a beast to sand and smooth. Probably going to have to bust out the wood filler for those... and that's going to be me, not DH. I used the stuff pretty extensively to smooth out my worbla-based Sif sword a few years ago, so I'm more familiar with the concept. (He also has a SW Destiny tournament this weekend, cutting in to his assistance time. ::chuckles:: ).

Another trick I've used to fill in or build up small areas from my model-making days is super glue (must be the regular liquid kind, not the gel) and then sprinkle baking soda on it. It hardens into a resin-like substance that can be sanded and carved. You can build up layers if you need a bigger area. (It does heat up as it's curing, FYI)

Apoxie Sculpt is a 2-part sculpting epoxy that is non toxic and also excellent to work with, though you have to order it online.
 
The Black Diamond gloves are still too large, and if I stitch them, I'm going to have to do it by hand... or completely disassemble the gloves.

This is one of those "since you are in crunch mode you might try it" suggestions. Also note this approach will put holes in the leather which will be impossilbe to remove, but it you plan to disassemble and refit the glove in the future that should not be a problem. If the gloves are too big it is probably around the fingers, around the palm, or both. Narrowing the palm without disassemble is difficult and has to be done to both the back and palm side of the glove. With the glove turned inside out you could sew a wider seam allowance down the thumb side of the glove. This will narrow both back and palm equally, but will be difficult to take all of the excess size on just one edge. You could take up more excess by sewing narrow darts down the back and/or palm. You often see this done with elastic thread on the backs of gloves. Second, narrowing the fingers can be achieved by turning the glove inside out and then stitching a wider seam allowance along the finger/glove back seams. I would just baste the vertical section not around the bottom of the seam. This will add some bulk to the back of the glove but not interfer with closing your hand. You should be able to machine stitch these modifications with a long stitch length to minimize the number of holes. I hope this gives you some help.
 
I've started looking at the jacket though, due to time constraints, I haven't started on it yet. I picked up a copy of Kwik Sew 3890, which I thought would serve as a good base. I doodled a few notes on a copy of the line drawings on the back of the envelope:

View attachment 719747

I started this, of course, before the video was available, so some of those doodles will have to change in light of actual reference photos. And only if I can stop getting engrossed in the story again long enough to pay attention to the back of her jacket...

For the fabric, I picked up a few yards of the Kaufman Fineline Twill in Evergreen. It's lightweight enough to deal with summer/fall in FL and GA, and still have enough body to provide proper shaping. The shade of olive is slightly too light. I planned to tone it down as I plan to do so with my vest fabric -- a bath in some chicory coffee. My initial fabric tests with the coffee age it slightly and give it a touch more brown -- enough so that I think it will be passable. I'm continuing to look around, though, for a lighter weight canvas that I like, even if I have to break down and learn to dye it.

I also picked up a sample of the Kaufman Montauk Twill in "Pond." It was darker and slightly than the Fineline Twill, so it may be better suited for some folks. I'll post a pic of the two, if I can find my sample.

The Kona Cotton OD Green is actually a good shade, but probably a little too lightweight.

Thanks!

I've not used any of the Kwik patterns before, do you find they are relatively easy to put together and read in terms of instructions? I think some commercial patterns are put together better then others. I'm side eyeing you right now Butterick.

I assumed twill would be a safe bet, it's good to see that someone agrees. Legion's standards are actually a bit vague by just saying "dark gray/green heavy cotton ". I really liked the idea that someone posted about using cotton drill for that more uniformed military look but I'm not having luck in finding it in a suitable olive. Joanns has one but it's white and I'm not super keen on the idea of coloring it then doing all the potential tea and weathering afterwards. I'm still really new that. On that note, how great that your doing coffee dye, I've always wanted to try that. Is it more permanent then a tea dye or is there some specific way to 'set' it?

Are you intending to line it as well? Between the nylon lined vest and a lined coat and presumably an equally heavy scarf for that drape, this is going to very hot costume.
 
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Another trick I've used to fill in or build up small areas from my model-making days is super glue (must be the regular liquid kind, not the gel) and then sprinkle baking soda on it. It hardens into a resin-like substance that can be sanded and carved. You can build up layers if you need a bigger area. (It does heat up as it's curing, FYI)

Apoxie Sculpt is a 2-part sculpting epoxy that is non toxic and also excellent to work with, though you have to order it online.

Thanks for the tips--given that this is my first time working with a 3D print, they are appreciated! I was going to try the Smooth-On product, but the Traywicks didn't recommend it. Said it ended up a little too hard and difficult to sand. Given some of the nooks and crannies on this thing, I could see that.

You should be able to machine stitch these modifications with a long stitch length to minimize the number of holes. I hope this gives you some help.

I've been looking at this possibility, believe me. The fingers are actually a bit too long, a bit too wide, and the palm could easily be taken in at least an inch, maybe an inch and a quarter. My size 6.5 - 7 hands are usually well below the standard sizing. Thanks for the suggestions -- will see what I end up with!

Thanks!

I've not used any of the Kwik patterns before, do you find they are relatively easy to put together and read in terms of instructions? I think some commercial patterns are put together better then others. I'm side eyeing you right now Butterick.

I assumed twill would be a safe bet, it's good to see that someone agrees. Legion's standards are actually a bit vague by just saying "dark gray/green heavy cotton ". I really liked the idea that someone posted about using cotton drill for that more uniformed military look but I'm not having luck in finding it in a suitable olive. Joanns has one but it's white and I'm not super keen on the idea of coloring it then doing all the potential tea and weathering afterwards. I'm still really new that. On that note, how great that your doing coffee dye, I've always wanted to try that. Is it more permanent then a tea dye or is there some specific way to 'set' it?

Are you intending to line it as well? Between the nylon lined vest and a lined coat and presumably an equally heavy scarf for that drape, this is going to very hot costume.

I find the Kwik Sew patterns are generally fairly easy to put together. There are, of course, exceptions, but I've used them fairly frequently over the past few years and been happy. I was happier when they printed on bond paper instead of tissue paper, but that was before they were purchased by McCall's. ::muttergrumble:: Most recently, I used their cargo pants pattern for DH's Theron Shan, last year. They were a little large, but that was user error, not pattern error. =D

KS remains one of my faves, though, as well as Jalie and Simplicity.

Regarding the coffee -- it's more about the tone that you want. Tea offers a bit more of a reddish-toned brown, while coffee can offer more of a black-brown. The chicory coffee blend I'm going to use is very strong, and just 30 minutes in a soak did a decent job of aging a sample slightly. (And it helps that this is the kind of coffee I keep on hand. =) ) To set it, I'll be using a vinegar and water rinse, as you would with tea or -- I assume -- with other dyes. I've only ever done tea dying on a few scraps for a quick gift before (an "instant pirate kit" in an aged drawstring bag), so this will be another adventure!

And I think the costumes for Rogue One are still new enough that RL and the 501st are still kinda feeling their way through the standards, seeing what works, what doesn't, and what materials are readily available. "Heavy cotton" could certainly mean a bottomweight twill, canvas, drill, or even duck, depending on the texture. Magnoli's version looks like a brushed canvas, which would be right in that ballpark.

I agree -- the lined vest, a lined jacket, the scarf together would all be extremely warm. It's one of many reasons I'm not rushing through to get the jacket and scarf done. Most of the cons I do are during summer in the south. And, while I'm certainly willing to suffer for my art, as it were, heat exhaustion may be a step too far. I might explore simply finishing the jacket seams, rather than lining it. =D
 
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I've also decided to forego Jyn's jacket and scarf for SWCO to keep myself cool, though I did line the vest. I plan to finish the scarf and jacket later. I'll also be bringing along my Hoth Leia costume to Orlando, but the suit is not padded and is only lightly lined, so though it'll be warm, it won't be too bad.

@andveryginger Have you used the Angelus Matte Finisher before? If not, it's not as "matte" as they advertise, and ends up making leather very glossy - almost like a shiny plastic coating. I ended up using Otter boot wax for finishing and it seemed to work nicely, but it makes leather temporarily darker as it soaks in.
 
I've also decided to forego Jyn's jacket and scarf for SWCO to keep myself cool, though I did line the vest. I plan to finish the scarf and jacket later. I'll also be bringing along my Hoth Leia costume to Orlando, but the suit is not padded and is only lightly lined, so though it'll be warm, it won't be too bad.

@andveryginger Have you used the Angelus Matte Finisher before? If not, it's not as "matte" as they advertise, and ends up making leather very glossy - almost like a shiny plastic coating. I ended up using Otter boot wax for finishing and it seemed to work nicely, but it makes leather temporarily darker as it soaks in.

I'm lining the vest, too, only in some of the orange SW: TFA logo cotton I picked up from Fabric.com. A bit of fun, since I'm not working to RL standards. Between that, the shirt, and the quilting, it's going to be warm enough without the jacket. =D

I've not done any leather working before, but was reading several of the forums, and was noting that a lot of people were preferring that over the Resolene. The Frye Weatherproof Cream has worked well enough, I think. Much softer sheen than the acrylics, and, because it's oil-based, it gives more of a patina. I suspect it has some wax in it, as well, given the way that it feels on the boot -- nicely conditioned, keeping the leather flexible, but resistant to water and scratches.

I'm considering waxing the vest, as well, likely with some beeswax-blend product. Probably won't get it done for SWCO, but should be good for ComicPalooza or after.
 
@andveryginger

Thanks for your help & suggestions! I've got a bit of time before the May the Fourth event that I'm going to be costume modeling for so that gives me time to order the pattern online and get to work.

I think I missed this bit or can't recall it; was there an agreement if the extended tips on the inside of the gloves cut off to be screen accurate?
 
I assume the silence is people frantically getting things ready for SWCO!

I wanted to remind you guys that I've got a group going for those visiting Orlando this week so our RPF Jyn group can meet up! If you want an invitation to the group, let me know.

I can't wait to see everybody there! I finally finished Jyn last night, and though I don't have the jacket or scarf yet, it's nice to have the first of the major parts of the costume finished. I wouldn't have been able to do this without you guys. Thank you <3 So I'll be back at it in the next few weeks to complete the jacket and scarf. How's everybody else coming along who isn't going to SWCO?
 
How's everybody else coming along who isn't going to SWCO?

I seem to be working in reverse from you - no major pieces done, but all the less important stuff: necklace, code cylinder, scarf, and (temporary) jacket....

Otherwise:
Baton - should be done by this weekend, waiting on paint/glue to dry before I can assemble and weather.
Blaster - the baton was the test project for this, once I start it should go pretty quickly
Gloves - need to be reassembled, stripped, and dyed
Shirt - as soon as I finalize the collar pattern I can sew the final version
Vest - need to fix the pattern, have all the parts
Pants - bought everything, not started
Belt - need new leather, the stuff I have isn't quite thick enough
Comlink - bought a flashlight that works for the base, just need to figure out the top
Boots - I thought these were nearly done, but I wore them to work two days in a row and they're just not going to work. They hurt my feet too much. I could probably fix them, or I could just go buy a better pair of brown boots and be done with it. And then I wouldn't have to try to make black boots brown for Rebel Legion.

I wish I had a dedicated work space, so I didn't have to go hunt down parts in multiple locations every time I try working on this...or that other people didn't "put things away" for me...
 

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