New Star Trek TOS Phaser coming November 2014

What about buying the thin bottom handle plate from Federation Phaser, drilling/tapping the bottom of the Wand handle, using a thinner brass nut, and a new stud, with the new plate to make the Wand handle a little more accurate for not too much money?. Tim
 
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This thread just gets better and better. The Wand p1 has been dissected (hopefully the p2 will get the same treatment).

I'm trying to figure out the P2, but I am not sure how easy that will be. So far I can't get the fins to budge. I fear I may need to sacrifice them to get this bugger open. I may consider getting a second one to convert to a Black, and white before I try again.
 
Has anyone had theirs act up? I just got this second one from ThinkGeek today, and the knob seemed hard to turn while going through the various settings, and suddenly I notice that the pistol emitter wasn't lighting up, and the P1 emitter was. Turning the knob didn't change the setting, and it kept lighting the P1 emitter. I turn it on and off, and it finally started working. It did it again just a minute ago, plus, while going through the settings while checking it out, it gave me bridge computer sounds, and also the female program voice said "Sorry". Excellent.

I noticed the prievious one did the P1 emitter thing a couple of times too, but seemed to work after that. Has anyone else had any weird issues with theirs similar to this?

I had problems like that in the beginning. Cleaning the contacts on the P1 will help in getting the pistol emitter to work instead of the emitter on the P1 when both units are connected. Not charging the unit when it says the batteries are drained the first time, but continue to use it until all you get is the message that the batteries are drained, then and only then charging it will get rid of the "sorry" messages. Mine has been working perfect ever since I did that.
 
I'm trying to figure out the P2, but I am not sure how easy that will be. So far I can't get the fins to budge. I fear I may need to sacrifice them to get this bugger open. I may consider getting a second one to convert to a Black, and white before I try again.

So looking at the diagram again there seems to be a big block of metal in the back, possible to add weight. The back pin from the two halves of the P2 may go through this block and lock the fins in place. In fact this block may not be separate from the fins as shown but a part of the fins. I haven't changed my thoughts around the nozzle but since the fins do seem locked in place I'm wondering if you just have to just separate the rear halves to remove the fins?

Greg
 
So looking at the diagram again there seems to be a big block of metal in the back, possible to add weight. The back pin from the two halves of the P2 may go through this block and lock the fins in place. In fact this block may not be separate from the fins as shown but a part of the fins. I haven't changed my thoughts around the nozzle but since the fins do seem locked in place I'm wondering if you just have to just separate the rear halves to remove the fins?

Greg

I am sure the fins have to come off first. The 2 halves if the body are between them.
 
Yeah I'd always assumed only two hero pistols were made - with the hero p1s belonging to those pistols. Because of the expense of the hero units I figured that they'd build an absolute minimum of them. Be interesting if there were 3 p1s though. Maybe one day we'll know for sure.. :)

We know for sure that there were three hero P1s. The red jewel and the blue watch crown, both seen on screen at the same time in "Assignment: Earth", and the GJ with Velcro and no jewel.
On this we absolutely agree. Unless there was another hero we never, ever saw (highly unlikely), there were three P1's. What Rob and I are bandying about is whether there may have been a third pistol.

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I am sure the fins have to come off first. The 2 halves if the body are between them.
Have you tried mounting it in a vise and tapping at it with a hammer and chisel/screwdriver? I usually have luck with this when I'm trying to release a stubborn pressure fit.

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I have so many pic's of phaser's. I probably did get them mixed up Rob. question If i may please. the phaser autopsy video. what phaser was that one ?
I think that wound up on youtube, didn't it?

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Wow...You guys really search for any possible nuance, nook or cranny..and based on all the pics I have seen here on originals..it would be virtually impossible to have a "dead on " phaser , as I have said before..they all had individual characteristics, and not all made exactly the same...
You grow in wisdom, grasshopper. :)
 
I realize I keep picking at this (can't help it-- trained to pick at things till they fit or break), but is the fuzzy screen cap from Charlile X the only indication that the crack happened during production, or is there corroboration of some sort?

Nothing for certain no. I just looked at the "Shoreleave" scene. There's a faint hint of the crack, there's also a lot of grunge when enlarged but the crack seams consistent in every frame. I made a couple dozen caps and scrolled through them. I don't have the means to make a gif, maybe someone with Photoshop can make something?

My best guess is they started with three heroes. But they proved to be easily broken and were too expensive to keep repairing. The GJ certainly shows signs of a rough life. The King two screw one may also have been damaged beyond repair, or maybe one of those Brady brats ran off with it :darnkids Late first season they made the mids and retired the busted heroes, keeping Finney for the occasional close up.
 
Nothing for certain no. I just looked at the "Shoreleave" scene. There's a faint hint of the crack, there's also a lot of grunge when enlarged but the crack seams consistent in every frame. I made a couple dozen caps and scrolled through them. I don't have the means to make a gif, maybe someone with Photoshop can make something?

My best guess is they started with three heroes. But they proved to be easily broken and were too expensive to keep repairing. The GJ certainly shows signs of a rough life. The King two screw one may also have been damaged beyond repair, or maybe one of those Brady brats ran off with it :darnkids Late first season they made the mids and retired the busted heroes, keeping Finney for the occasional close up.
Reasonable, but I'm still not there.

Also, there are two heroes and at least one midgrade in the same shot in Galileo Seven, which was pretty early, with a crapazoid in the first and last slots from camera. The mid is visible when Gaetano removes the two heroes.

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Hey, does "These Are the Voyages" add anything to the phaser story?
 
...Hey, does "These Are the Voyages" add anything to the phaser story?

I don't have it yet. But if it did I'm sure someone on TPZ would have mentioned it.

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Oh, and take a closer look at the King cap, the release pin is painted the P2 color.
 
I don't have it yet. But if it did I'm sure someone on TPZ would have mentioned it.

That seems likely. Season 1's on Kindle or iBooks (I forget which), but I haven't gotten around to it yet. It's on my wishlist though. (I really, REALLY hate spending money on paper books anymore.)

Oh, and take a closer look at the King cap, the release pin is painted the P2 color.
Holy crap, I believe you're right. :)
 
But I think we'll really learn the truth when TOS comes out in 4K. :p

Don't keep your hopes up to high. Anything that was originally shot out of focus will be blurry in SD, HD and in 4K. Remember that unfortunately they had the actors in focus, not the props.
 
Don't keep your hopes up to high. Anything that was originally shot out of focus will be blurry in SD, HD and in 4K. Remember that unfortunately they had the actors in focus, not the props.
That was actually a joke. Hence the laffy-face. The implication is that the picking goes on no matter how good a look we get, because we're an obsessive bunch.

I spent 11 years in the film industry, which included a fair amount of camera training early on, and after that I was (and still am) an insatiably curious geek. Camera was one of my favorite places to hang around, and I used to quiz camera and lighting people all the time. Learned a lot over the years that way. Also there was film school, and years of hobby photography in 35mm when I was a teenager.

If you really pay attention to camera in the series in HD, it's pretty easy to see that they didn't always get focus right, because viewfinders back then were quite dark, there wasn't time to do too many takes, and you usually only caught a soft shot in dailies the next day because video assist didn't exist yet -- too late to do anything about it on their schedule and budget. In fact, most of their dolly push-ins went soft in the middle, and often the 1st AC had to adjust focus at the very end.

Also happens in old movies quite a lot. It's hard to match a manual focus pull to a dolly push-in all the way through, even if you're really, really good. You've got intermediate marks on the lens, but it's not perfect because there's a human pushing the dolly, another acting in the frame, and a third pulling focus. Nowadays, there's all kinds of focus assist technology, plus digital sharpening in post, so you don't see it nearly as often. Not to mention if you're shooting on film, video assist is digital now and vastly superior to what it was in my day, and you can play back your takes on the spot on a large monitor instead of 24+ hours later.

Interestingly though, the prop inserts on TOS are usually flawlessly focused, because they never moved, the camera was locked off, and it was easier to find your focus and keep it there. :)
 
...but does that mean there still is hope that when Double IMAX 8640pp comes out, we will finally be able to make out the type of glue used and what Shattner had for lunch, ...which was probably a chicken salad sandwich...and coffee. %\
 
Don't keep your hopes up to high. Anything that was originally shot out of focus will be blurry in SD, HD and in 4K. Remember that unfortunately they had the actors in focus, not the props.

On the contrary, we're learning a great deal still. When they laser scanned the film of the original series for Bluray the detail they drew out encouraged them to fix the special effects (which required multiple film composites and therefore a more degraded image). Those clearer frames settled some arguments and created new ones. And, just a few months ago it was mentioned that the dark items separating the fins on the P2 looked like cardboard. The release mechanism for the P1 still remains a mystery to most that didn't see Jein's internal phaser parts. The hunt doesn't end…it will continue.
 
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...but does that mean there still is hope that when Double IMAX 8640pp comes out, we will finally be able to make out the type of glue used and what Shattner had for lunch, ...which was probably a chicken salad sandwich...and coffee. %\
NO!!! I WILL NOT REST TILL I HAVE ELECTRON MICROGRAPHS OF NIMOY'S GUT BACTERIA. :p

On the contrary, we're learning a great deal still. When they laser scanned the film of the original series for Bluray the detail they drew out encouraged them to fix the special effects (which required multiple film composites and therefore a more degraded image). Those clearer frames settled some arguments and created new ones. And, just a few months ago it was mentioned by the Wand Company, while studying the prop, that the dark items separating the fins on the P2 looked like cardboard. The release mechanism for the P1 still remains a mystery to most that didn't see Jein's internal phaser parts. The hunt doesn't end…it will continue.
Well, that's the fun, isn't it? Scratch builders now have better reference than ever, and we're still tossing it around. Rob makes some of the best shells I've ever seen, yet I'm going to make my own, because that's how you learn -- plus it's much harder to justify not scratch-building something when I'm paying for Techshop. :) I don't think this hobby ever ends, even one day when the 3D scans of the GJ are open-sourced and everyone can download and print a perfect copy.

I know I'd just go back and re-measure and hope I find something new... :)
 
Sorry to keep butting in to the original phaser detail talk, but is anyone else's sight sitting like this? It's fairly even to the surface on the left side when closed, but drops down a lot on the right side. And then crooked when coming up, but locking in to place straight. The dissection pics even make the clear sight piece look like it might be wider on one end than the other, which would explain the drop, but it seems like the first phaser I received was flush all the way across.

Also, I got an email back from the Wand Company (very quickly, I might add) when I asked them about the glitches I was having on my effects. Besides shutting it off and letting it sit a moment, they said to try wiping down the contacts on both the P1 and 2 and trying it again. I'll do it tonight and see if it helps.

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I'm trying to figure out the P2, but I am not sure how easy that will be. So far I can't get the fins to budge. I fear I may need to sacrifice them to get this bugger open. I may consider getting a second one to convert to a Black, and white before I try again.


On the schematics there's two spur looking deals on each side. almost fish hook looking. I can imagine they may be hard to defeat and bring the fins back and off of the P2.
 
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