The "I'm painting a Captain America Shield" thread

Tamiya make three blues that look like they might serve for the light blue stripes on the Winter Soldier shield.

PS-49 Sky Blue Anodized Alum
Tamiya America Item #86049 | PS-49 Sky Blue Anodized Alum - 100ml Spray Can header_86049.jpg

PS-39 Translucent Light Blue. I think this one is the one Chris was talking about? Yes? No?
Tamiya America Item #86039 | PS-39 Translucent Light Blue - 100ml Spray Can
header_86039.jpg

PS-3 Light Blue.
Tamiya America Item #86003 | PS-3 Light Blue - 100ml Spray Can
header_86003.jpg

All three of these carry the warning that, "These spray paints were developed especially for decorating transparent polycarbonate bodies used in R/C car modeling. Each can contains 100ml of paint, which is the appropriate amount for finishing the model. Paint the body from the inside, keeping the can about 30cm from the surface. After curing apply another coat as necessary. These paints are impervious to oil and fuels, so they can be safely used on gas-powered R/C bodies. Note: Never use these paints on plastic models."

Chris Fields said:
It's hard to tell what the lighter blue/silver color is on the film shield. Sometimes it looks light blue, other it looks more silver. I think cousin dave's was too light bluish, but it did look good. I haven't done one of those yet myself, but from prior test, some of the lighter colored transparent blues would work, maybe mix them with a little bit of transparent smoke color. The tamiya transparent blue is really light blue, might work well.
Click to expand...
 
You might be looking at the wrong ones. You want to make sure the paint is translucent. I know tamiya has polycarbonate specific sprays, but they have others as well. Though, if that Sky blue anodized aluminum one is translucent, and works on metal, then that looks perfect.
 
I might indeed be looking at the wrong ones. Sounds just like something I would do. I appreciate your steering me back on path. But yes, I'll check on that PS-49 Sky Blue Anodized Alum , too.

Chris Fields said:
You might be looking at the wrong ones. You want to make sure the paint is translucent. I know tamiya has polycarbonate specific sprays, but they have others as well. Though, if that Sky blue anodized aluminum one is translucent, and works on metal, then that looks perfect.
Click to expand...
 
Chris Fields has done it in the past, and steamshovel has done it as well

I received my new blank yesterday, but we're suddenly in the process of moving, so I'm not sure when I will get a chance to work on it
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Recessed and engraved stars have been completed on both steel and aluminum shields.

Also, exact replicas of the leather straps, buckles and hardware for the back of the shield have been done here on the RPF.
 
“Search Engine, your friend it is”

But to help out.

Leather with stitching and buckles: CousinDave
Shield hardware and full oval bracket: Kevin Gossett
Glue on Star and partial universal fit bracket: Valor
Engraved Aluminum Shield: Chris Field
Engraved Steel: Fly4v and I want to say either Valor or Kevin Gossett but someone pre-dated my attempt
Others with great Shields: Kerr Avon and Steamshovel

If I failed to mention anyone, it is a function of oldtimers disease not an intentional oversight or intended insult.

Edit: And yes, General Frosty, the host of this tread.
 
I think many of the threads you are referring to no longer exist. Particularly the 100% accurate shields or the engraved / recessed ones.
I can't seem to find them.. or else I'm just getting old too. hah
 
Yep, threads have been pulled and deleted. I made a grooved in star shield for myself when I did a stunt show awhile back, because I didn't want the star to pop off when I was doing any rolls across the stage, or getting hit from kicks, punches, hammers, etc.. lol. It worked ok, but I wasn't happy with the accuracy of the grooves and lines didn't come out too clean. I am currently working on a fixture for myself to make perfect grooved in lines in any shape I want on any blank shield. :)
 
Isn't the original one that the prop masters built made of interlocking rings and not one piece of aluminum? That explains why the back grooves apparently don't line up with the front ones. I remember reading this somewhere but I can't remember where...

If that's the case that would make painting way easier if each colour was it's own piece.
 
AgentOfShield said:
Isn't the original one that the prop masters built made of interlocking rings and not one piece of aluminum? That explains why the back grooves apparently don't line up with the front ones. I remember reading this somewhere but I can't remember where...

If that's the case that would make painting way easier if each colour was it's own piece.
Click to expand...

If I were able to make each ring it's separate piece and fuse them together securely I wouldn't paint at all. I would just straight up get the pieces anodized.
 
That's probably how they did it for production, seems logical enough.

Each ring I imagine would have a sort of step/lip on the bottom half of its thickness, allowing them to sit within each other.
 

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