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  1. RPF Premium Member Sulla's Avatar
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    Indianapolis, IN
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    Mar 19, 2007, 11:27 AM - #1

    I want to put a clear coat over my painted resin and styrene props. I will use both matte and glossy (not together) depending on the prop. I always end up with a beaded/rough surface, or with a smooth but 'spotted' look.

    Am I spraying the clear coat on too thickly? To thinly? Should I do one even coat, or multiple lightly sprayed coats with drying time between spraying? Am I not giving it time to dry, or is the room temperature too high or low, or should I warm the spray can... etc.?
  2. RPF Premium Member Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 11:44 AM - #2

    Hey Andy,

    Clear coat is always a toughie and is as much an art as anything else.

    It sounds like your holding the can too far away and it's drying before it hits the surface. Clear coats need to be put on in a wet coat. Meaning that it looks wet when it hits the surface. BUT not so wet that it starts to run and drip.

    Start spraying before you get to the object. Movle slowly and evenly about 6-8" from the surface. Practice on a piece of scrap to see how close and slow you can spray without getting a case of the runs :o .

    -Fred

  3. Member Since
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    Earth
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    Mar 19, 2007, 1:46 PM - #3

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Gigatron @ Mar 19 2007, 11:44 AM) [snapback]1443323[/snapback]</div>
    Hey Andy,

    Clear coat is always a toughie and is as much an art as anything else.

    It sounds like your holding the can too far away and it's drying before it hits the surface. Clear coats need to be put on in a wet coat. Meaning that it looks wet when it hits the surface. BUT not so wet that it starts to run and drip.

    Start spraying before you get to the object. Movle slowly and evenly about 6-8" from the surface. Practice on a piece of scrap to see how close and slow you can spray without getting a case of the runs :o .

    -Fred
    [/b]

    Let it dry thouroghly between coats, wet sand then repeat the spraying if needed.
  4. dropshipbob's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 1:47 PM - #4

    I've used some acrylic based sealers that have left behind a slightly beaded surface texture. Is that what you are using?
  5. franz bolo's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 2:15 PM - #5

    What brand of clear are you using?

    I just tried out the Testors Flat Clear and it workd great.

    FB
  6. RPF Premium Member Sulla's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 2:24 PM - #6

    I have been using a rustoleum or other brand clear coat from the spray paint section of Wal-Mart or Meijer's
  7. franz bolo's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 2:44 PM - #7

    Rustoleum seems to come out faster and more volume.

    Try the Testors out. It's made for models wheras Rusto is made for chairs and things.

    FB
  8. RPF Premium Member Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 2:49 PM - #8

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(franz bolo @ Mar 19 2007, 02:44 PM) [snapback]1443442[/snapback]</div>
    Rustoleum seems to come out faster and more volume.

    Try the Testors out. It's made for models wheras Rusto is made for chairs and things.

    FB
    [/b]
    Hey Andy,

    Here's a question for you. What type of finish are you trying to accomplish? Like a clear coat on a car, where it's a hard, protective shell, or are you just looking to protect the underlying paint from handling?

    If it's the first, try dupli-color automotive clear coat from an autoparts store. If it's the second, try some Future Floor Wax through your airbrush. It dries crystal clear and will protect your paintjob from everything except acrylic thinner and windex. You can even change the sheen (high gloss, semi-gloss and flat) by mixing in some PolyScale flat.

    -Fred


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    Mar 19, 2007, 2:59 PM - #9

    I would just like to add that I can't find a way to mess up with Testors. I WON'T use anything else.
  10. RPF Premium Member Sulla's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 3:28 PM - #10

    Thanks everyone.

    I'll try testors first. It's just to keep the painted surface protected.
  11. RPF Premium Member kurtyboy's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 5:37 PM - #11

    Have you tried wetsanding the clear coat and then polishing it up?
  12. Lynn TXP 0369's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 8:10 PM - #12

    I only use Testors or Model Masters clears exclusivly.

    The other brands always give me problems and I'll never use them.

    Lynn
  13. RPF Premium Member Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 8:29 PM - #13

    I've never tried the Testors, but if you find a way to mess up the Future, you really need to put down the sharp instruments and lock yourself in a padded room. It's next to impossible to do wrong. Plus, it's available at your local supermarket for like $6 for 27oz.

    -Fred

  14. franz bolo's Avatar
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    Mar 19, 2007, 10:22 PM - #14

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Gigatron @ Mar 19 2007, 08:29 PM) [snapback]1443678[/snapback]</div>
    I've never tried the Testors, but if you find a way to mess up the Future, you really need to put down the sharp instruments and lock yourself in a padded room. It's next to impossible to do wrong. Plus, it's available at your local supermarket for like $6 for 27oz.

    -Fred
    [/b]
    I've heard good things about future. It's supposed to be great to make surfaces smoother for decal applications.

    Only downside is the airbrush.
  15. RPF Premium Member Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 20, 2007, 7:31 AM - #15

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(franz bolo @ Mar 19 2007, 10:22 PM) [snapback]1443752[/snapback]</div>
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Gigatron @ Mar 19 2007, 08:29 PM) [snapback]1443678[/snapback]
    I've never tried the Testors, but if you find a way to mess up the Future, you really need to put down the sharp instruments and lock yourself in a padded room. It's next to impossible to do wrong. Plus, it's available at your local supermarket for like $6 for 27oz.

    -Fred
    [/b]
    I've heard good things about future. It's supposed to be great to make surfaces smoother for decal applications.

    Only downside is the airbrush.
    [/b][/quote]


    I use it for everything - protective layer between paint and washes, putting under and over decals, final top coats, protecting canopies or other clear parts - you name it.

    And you don't necessarily need an airbrush to apply it. Since it has a water like consistency, you can brush it on because it is self-leveling - no brush marks

    -Fred

  16. RPF Premium Member OdiWan72's Avatar
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    Mar 20, 2007, 8:41 AM - #16

    o.k....I NEED a gallon of future, since it´s not available here in Germany

    Markus
  17. Member Since
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    Mar 20, 2007, 8:48 AM - #17

    Future does work great. My only advice is you need to cover the entire surface at each coat. I.E. if you run out on a layer, you will very clearly see where the line is, opposed to testors.
  18. RPF Premium Member Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 20, 2007, 12:58 PM - #18

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OdiWan72 @ Mar 20 2007, 08:41 AM) [snapback]1443931[/snapback]</div>
    o.k....I NEED a gallon of future, since it´s not available here in Germany

    Markus
    [/b]

    Hey Markus,

    Check this site here: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html It should tell you where you can find it your neck of the woods including what it might go by and what stores should carry it.

    -Fred

  19. mrgr8ness's Avatar
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    Nov 2006
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    Mar 21, 2007, 8:48 AM - #19

    I have the same problems with the Rustoleum as well. Never a problem with Model Masters. I will stick to MM or Testors
  20. Lynn TXP 0369's Avatar
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    NE, PA
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    Mar 21, 2007, 4:25 PM - #20

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(franz bolo @ Mar 19 2007, 10:22 PM) [snapback]1443752[/snapback]</div>

    I've heard good things about future. It's supposed to be great to make surfaces smoother for decal applications.

    Only downside is the airbrush.
    [/b]
    Why on earth do you need an airbrush to apply Future???

    Just use a good quality red sable brush and brush it on.

    Future flows out flat when applied with a brush, so there are no brush strokes.

    I've done over 100 model race cars in the past using a paint brush to apply the Future. Not a brush stroke to be found in any of them..

    Lynn

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