Prodigal Son Luke Rotj LED Lightsaber

S

saberforge

Member
Here is my redesigned and revamped prodigal son.

It features a number of improvements over my current prodigal son.

First and foremost I was able to reduce the neck to under 3/4 of an inch, and IMPROVE combat durability. I did this by making the 3/4 neck a central strut that slides into the blade, and the shroud creates an overlap channel that the blade slide into. The central strut houses the heat sink, led, and custom optic. So the seoul p4 led is actually inside the bottom of the blade when the blade is installed. So you don't lose any lumens with a neck choke, and you don't have to sacrifice athetics for durability.

Second, I redesigned the pommel, and am now media blasting the milled surfaces to avoid any machine marks. Also, I had the fortune of sourcing a stainless tri-ring, which I think compliments the hilt very well.

Third, I designed a new activation box, and moved the switch from the pommel, to the activation box. Now the circuit card is actually the switch, pres the center of the card to turn the saber on and off. Red and green arrows and a black greebly adorn the side of the box.

Fourth, I completely redesigned the main handle portion of the hilt as well, and overall was able to reduce the length from almost 13 inches, to only 11.

Here is the video.

YouTube - Prodigal son LED saber, not MR FX LUKE LIGHTSABER

Here are some pictures.

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IMG_0998-1.jpg

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IMG_1007-1.jpg
 
What a difference the neck makes. Every single other ROTJ/V2 etc style FX saber makes me cringe.

saberforge said:
Here is my redesigned and revamped prodigal son.

It features a number of improvements over my current prodigal son.

First and foremost I was able to reduce the neck to under 3/4 of an inch, and IMPROVE combat durability. I did this by making the 3/4 neck a central strut that slides into the blade, and the shroud creates an overlap channel that the blade slide into. The central strut houses the heat sink, led, and custom optic. So the seoul p4 led is actually inside the bottom of the blade when the blade is installed. So you don't lose any lumens with a neck choke, and you don't have to sacrifice athetics for durability.

Second, I redesigned the pommel, and am now media blasting the milled surfaces to avoid any machine marks. Also, I had the fortune of sourcing a stainless tri-ring, which I think compliments the hilt very well.

Third, I designed a new activation box, and moved the switch from the pommel, to the activation box. Now the circuit card is actually the switch, pres the center of the card to turn the saber on and off. Red and green arrows and a black greebly adorn the side of the box.

Fourth, I completely redesigned the main handle portion of the hilt as well, and overall was able to reduce the length from almost 13 inches, to only 11.

Here is the video.

YouTube - Prodigal son LED saber, not MR FX LUKE LIGHTSABER

Here are some pictures.
Click to expand...
 
They will be, I did a small run of 4 that I will be selling on ebay, that will help give me a good idea what they should be priced at.

I am going to try and do them for around 150.00, if I outsource the machining to a larger shop, I should be able to get hem down to 99-130.00
 
I applaud you plenty! I will definitely keep an eye out for your progress, and if you can keep it under $150 then consider one of those sabers sold! =)
 
The one i'm looking for is the green one Ani uses at the end battle scene in AOTC, is that what the Alliance hilt is based off of?
 
No, I think you are talking about the arena clan saber.

That looks pretty different, but it is something I could do if your interested PM me.

I just got a media blaster, so I can finally do that matte metal finish the arena saber has.
 
I absolutely love this design!

After viewing the video, I thought "hm, too bad he hasn't done the same thing to the EpIV Kenobi. Then I saw the link on the right side for the other video.

Are you planning on doing a run of the obi-wan sabers as well? If so, you have a guaranteed two orders (either instantly or within a couple of paychecks, depending on price.)

Keep up the good work!
 
Thanks guys, I am actually working on improving the obi design, I am getting it drawn in CAD so I can outsource the machining to a shop with a multi axis machine, so I don't have to use rubber t grips for the gear.

Also, in these pictures the neck is .75, but I have changed the design, and now I have the neck down to the accurate .65

I should be posting new pictures in a few days when I finish the assembly of the ones I am working on.

A reveal feature would be awesome, I am not opposed to the idea, it will be tricky fitting all of the electronics, and an accurate internals section in the hilt.
 
Looks great! If you can keep it around $150, I'll buy one. I echo the kudos on making the neck so thin. Makes all the difference. I like that you can add sound. I don't think they offer sound card adding at park sabers for this one. Park also did a thin neck. Great job on your mods!
 
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