Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

Can anyone of you guys in the UK point me to the correct 3mm LEDs to get from Maplin?

Whats the maximum voltage i should be looking at when buying the LEDs.
They seem to have a few different ones.

airair said:

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Can anyone of you guys in the UK point me to the correct 3mm LEDs to get from Maplin?

Whats the maximum voltage i should be looking at when buying the LEDs.
They seem to have a few different ones.

pololu.com has all you need AirAir 2mm/ 3mm /defused L.E.D all colors please check and there very affordable.

Jedifyfe said:

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Make sure you use EL sheet and NOT EL wire. Two seperate things.

Also, to make it accurate, you need to replace the 12 LED's in the ankle bubble and make the ankle bubble itself have a frosted look.

Hi
i wanted to ask you,

do you use the brush on Loctite glue when glueing back the toe fabric to the sole?

or use the powerflex one?

i bought both, and im also thinking of getting this glue here

stick2
https://www.macbuildingproducts.com/...roducts_id=137

its supposed to really good for shoe soles, so im guessing might be a good strong option also.

Jedifyfe said:

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Thanks guys. I've got the toe slim down to a science now.

@luke, the factory glue on my pairs is actually pretty clean.

i've opened up the toes on several pairs now.

lol, its like doing a skilled operation!

ps, you know the dollhouse tape wire, are you still using wireglue for the EL connection to Dollhouse tape wire, or just solder now?

just got some supplies in and waiting for some other bits to get started

thanks

airair said:

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i've opened up the toes on several pairs now.

lol, its like doing a skilled operation!

ps, you know the dollhouse tape wire, are you still using wireglue for the EL connection to Dollhouse tape wire, or just solder now?

Yes it is. It's like doing open heart surgery...

Yes I still use wire glue. I have yet to be able to solder from the wire tape to the EL without ruining it or having a week connection. My first pair have been wire glued and I have put them through their paces (with NO issues). Wire glue RULES!!!

People don't realize what a Pain in the ass this can be. Displaying these is SO much different that wearing them!

To all those that want these accurat efor $500...keep your money. Try buying the real ones for less than $3500...THAT is why I charge so much for my conversions....(many people that have paid agree)

I strive to make EVERY pair I have wearable, NOT just displayable....

Jedifyfe said:

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Yes it is. It's like doing open heart surgery...

Yes I still use wire glue. I have yet to be able to solder from the wire tape to the EL without ruining it or having a week connection. My first pair have been wire glued and I have put them through their paces (with NO issues). Wire glue RULES!!!

People don't realize what a Pain in the ass this can be. Displaying these is SO much different that wearing them!

To all those that want these accurat efor $500...keep your money. Try buying the real ones for less than $3500...THAT is why I charge so much for my conversions....(many people that have paid agree)

I strive to make EVERY pair I have wearable, NOT just displayable....

Yeah, the pictures you put up speak for themselves, marvellous work.

I actually have quite a few Aqua and various other coloured EL sheets (red, yellow and blue), which I custom ordered from China, ended up costing me $7 a sheet, enough for all the multiple conversions, and each sheet has multiple connectors on it.

Do you suggest still using wire glue even if i have connectors?
or only when i just have el sheet where there are no connectors left, just the tabs?

I should have enough pin/connectors for each strap/soles set to solder directly from Tape wire to EL cutout.

If i run out, I guess then its Wire Glue.

For those wanting to do new led boards bare the below in mind as it can save you time and money.

So I thought since the stock v2 led boards will no doubt get chucked away as they are not coloured why not solder them together and it worked perfectly.

I will however install coloured LEDs and strip the board so I can use the board supplied as its some of the hard work done for you.

Hope this helps as you can still use the whole board by just painting the tips of the LEDs as I did before.

A tip though, solder more onto each +/- so the LEDs don't fall out when applying your electrical cable(strip plastic coating off) also don't forget to paint white over the letters on the front of the board so they are not visible.

So the pro's to doing this... You don't need to cut the plastic styrene card, you don't need to buy LEDs if you don't want to, the LEDs are already soldered you just have to link them up(on the front of the board it actually shows you which side of the led tail is positive(+)

ok guys i completed one shoe completely (aside from ironing the ribs) I am using a rechargeable 9v battery that I got from ebay(details on pic). I used Jedifyfes wiring diagram and just added a female DC pin and diode. I let the shoes sit for a few hours until they died, then plugged em in and they lit right up(this means its wired right). I'll have a full charge tomorrow and let the shoes sit to see how long they last.

NikWink said:

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ok guys i completed one shoe completely (aside from ironing the ribs) I am using a rechargeable 9v battery that I got from ebay(details on pic). I used Jedifyfes wiring diagram and just added a female DC pin and diode. I let the shoes sit for a few hours until they died, then plugged em in and they lit right up(this means its wired right). I'll have a full charge tomorrow and let the shoes sit to see how long they last.

That's a very nice pair good job

Wow; sweet work on that shoe Nik!

Hey Taff, what type of paints did you use to color your LEDs?

No joke, these shoes are 5x brighter than when I first got em. The EL and new LEDs are crazy!

Anyone in the LA/OC (SoCal) area that want to get a pair of Mags? Cause when we buy 2 or more we get a 10% discount. I am going to buy a pair in the next couple days and want to know if anyone wants the discount. Also helps me out to.

We will be on the same order. We can meet in person at my house (so u know where I live and you know that I am not trying to take your money) and you can give me the money. Then will order both shoes while you are there. Let me know guys.

Waw that looks so much better ! Well done nikwink

NikWink said:

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No joke, these shoes are 5x brighter than when I first got em. The EL and new LEDs are crazy!

That looks spot on Nik, cracking job!

Taff83 said:

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For those wanting to do new led boards bare the below in mind as it can save you time and money.

So I thought since the stock v2 led boards will no doubt get chucked away as they are not coloured why not solder them together and it worked perfectly.

I will however install coloured LEDs and strip the board so I can use the board supplied as its some of the hard work done for you.

Hope this helps as you can still use the whole board by just painting the tips of the LEDs as I did before.

A tip though, solder more onto each +/- so the LEDs don't fall out when applying your electrical cable(strip plastic coating off) also don't forget to paint white over the letters on the front of the board so they are not visible.

So the pro's to doing this... You don't need to cut the plastic styrene card, you don't need to buy LEDs if you don't want to, the LEDs are already soldered you just have to link them up(on the front of the board it actually shows you which side of the led tail is positive(+)

hi
thanks

well i bought some diffused 3mm leds and have the resistors ready.

So if i simply reused that board, would i need to wire in parallel now?

I will be using a 9v battery setup,

In the jedifyfe wiring diagram, its in series, + to -.

That board is already pre cut for parallel rather than in series, so does anyone have a wiring diagram for using this existing board in parallel for use with 9v?

if someone could draw out the back of the v2 led board, and then indicate the best way to wire it.
If using 9v as a battery source, wiring should be ok whether in series or parallel? as long as multiple resistors are used i assume?

like you said, you can just paint over this, and then simply solder in the new LEDs and resistors.

Taff83 said:

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For those wanting to do new led boards bare the below in mind as it can save you time and money.

So I thought since the stock v2 led boards will no doubt get chucked away as they are not coloured why not solder them together and it worked perfectly.

I will however install coloured LEDs and strip the board so I can use the board supplied as its some of the hard work done for you.

Hope this helps as you can still use the whole board by just painting the tips of the LEDs as I did before.

A tip though, solder more onto each +/- so the LEDs don't fall out when applying your electrical cable(strip plastic coating off) also don't forget to paint white over the letters on the front of the board so they are not visible.

So the pro's to doing this... You don't need to cut the plastic styrene card, you don't need to buy LEDs if you don't want to, the LEDs are already soldered you just have to link them up(on the front of the board it actually shows you which side of the led tail is positive(+)

Since the holes in that board are made for series rather than parallel, whats the best method of wiring in parallel with that board? im not sure where to put the 3 resistors.

i will be trying a 9v setup.
thnks

airair said:

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Since the holes in that board are made for series rather than parallel, whats the best method of wiring in parallel with that board? im not sure where to put the 3 resistors.

i will be trying a 9v setup.
thnks

the boards are for parallel, negative on the top, positive below.

all i did was get electrical cable strip the plastic coating off it, solder it in a row all the negatives then solder all the positives then for each row i linked them up.

I personally will be using 1x 100ohm resistor as i really don't see the difference using 3 separate but if anyone wants to elaborate on this be my guest.

Taff83 said:

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the boards are for parallel, negative on the top, positive below.

all i did was get electrical cable strip the plastic coating off it, solder it in a row all the negatives then solder all the positives then for each row i linked them up.

I personally will be using 1x 100ohm resistor as i really don't see the difference using 3 separate but if anyone wants to elaborate on this be my guest.

#thanks yeah
my mistake
the board yeah is for parallel.

i think you are using the 3.7v setup

since i want to use 9v, and normally the wiring seems to be in series with 3 resistors.
im just trying to check if i can still use the same resistors but just wired in parallel.

Taff83 said:

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Well my 3.7v setup has now come out and is being reworked as we speak so i get 10 hours+ from my el and leds which has rechargeable dc output running all off one switch, but i am implementing that for the shoes i will wear out and about as most Halloween/fancy dress parties exceed 4 hours (tbh usually around 6-8 hours) so hence why my current pair will run 9v and be for display purposes only, i will use 750mah from here but if anyone finds better please post 2pcs New 9V Li-ion Rechargeable battery 750mAh + 1 Smart Charger with adapter | eBay

if you use 3 resistors my guess is they are not all 100 ohm more like 25's or 50's... whether you have 1 resistor or 3 its the ohms that is placed before the start of the first led on the positive row so it should not matter how many resistors you use so long as you have sufficient ohms

thanks
yeah

well the 3 resistors are 10ohm each.

i guess soldering one after each other should be ok? if it means saving time having to cut out a new led board using styrene.

so here is what I did the LED board out of, a plastic box I had, I cut it down, then cut it to shape, drilled the holes with a guide, then used a 7/64 bit to make the final holes. I slid the LEDs into the holes and they sat real nice. So I sprayed the plastic white, slid the LEDs in with a little glue and was good to go. I also attached a picture of the switch, my ankle buckle with DC pin, and the finished shoe after the flattened laces. Now to start the second shoe.

P.S. thanx to Jedifyfe and taff83 for all of the help throughout this entire project.

gotpball44 said:

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Anyone in the LA/OC (SoCal) area that want to get a pair of Mags? Cause when we buy 2 or more we get a 10% discount. I am going to buy a pair in the next couple days and want to know if anyone wants the discount. Also helps me out to.

We will be on the same order. We can meet in person at my house (so u know where I live and you know that I am not trying to take your money) and you can give me the money. Then will order both shoes while you are there. Let me know guys.

anyone?

NikWink said:

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so here is what I did the LED board out of, a plastic box I had, I cut it down, then cut it to shape, drilled the holes with a guide, then used a 7/64 bit to make the final holes. I slid the LEDs into the holes and they sat real nice. So I sprayed the plastic white, slid the LEDs in with a little glue and was good to go. I also attached a picture of the switch, my ankle buckle with DC pin, and the finished shoe after the flattened laces. Now to start the second shoe.

P.S. thanx to Jedifyfe and taff83 for all of the help throughout this entire project.

Excellent work Nik The logos will finish it off nicely!