Wow, 45 Amps?! That's a lot of LEDs!
Okay, off to go see pics now.
Wow, 45 Amps?! That's a lot of LEDs!
Okay, off to go see pics now.
Thanks for posting the Party Pics. Looks like a nice party but the TARDIS stole the show. I really enjoyed the night shots. She lights up as well as the real deal. A few questions:
* All the star wars stuff in that other couples photo spread. Are those your collection? It looked like a museum
* The Dalek, is that yours? Built?
* KITT did someone build that or was that a prop from the show?
* Are you considering a lighted screen print for the interior?
Yes, that's my Star Wars collection. It's the second floor of my building.
Dalek is Estil Vance's. It's a static prop from David Miller Creations.
KITT was assembled by Wayne, who owns it. Parts are available to make them if you have the time and money.
I do want a translight inside. Just waiting on a way to get the image, then I'll sort out how to light it.
Here's a photo of the disassembled build minus the base.
meant to be portable?
that's really cool.
Craftsmanship is second to none... another Home Run Philip...
In the spirit of the New Yankee (Wookie) Workshop, will you offer a "measured draw-ring" of the project?
The only bad thing I can say is that this project ever had to end. I've so looked forward to watching the progress every day. It's just a work of art Philip! Congrats!
I do have a number of smallish tasks to complete on the build, so there will be a few more updates, and final photos to come.
I do plan to formalize my dimensions and make them available.
More of the final parts of the build are getting done. Not much to show, but there are a few photos.
I had installed only right hand side of the ERA nightlatch for my prop party but have now added the catch side as well. I forgot to mention earlier that like the prop, we removed the ERA logo from the front of the key assembly. We just sanded it off, using coarse to medium fine sandpaper on a granite surface. The correct chrome escutcheon is still coming over from Wayne in the UK, along with the correct chrome door pulls.
Note the photo below looks odd because the door is upside down.
I had planned to route the AC power into the base by putting a groove in the bottom to run a wire under, along with the two speaker wires (12v plus stereo signal), but my friend Adam down the way suggested I install a flush mounted PC power plug, which I hadn't even considered. A great idea, which I'm now expanding to include all the power and audio leads for the speakers, and plan to make all those pieces plug and play like the other electronics. I think this will really polish that bit of wiring I wasn't so happy about.
Catching back up on speakers, I ended up deciding to use Bose speakers for the sound. They will just sit on the ground just behind the base.
I picked up all the stuff to wire this up with today. It's a bunch of pieces.
The lantern rebuild is waiting for the topper to arrive from Primrodo so I can mold and cast it. I had mentioned earlier that I had to disassemble the top of the anchor lantern to paint it. Looking at how to put it back together I decided it had to be riveted just like it came originally, so I tracked down the correct brass rivets to do this. Had to buy 100, though I only need 8, so if anybody needs to do the same thing, I have rivets.
Work is slow going on this plug and play for the electrical and speaker connectors.
I first laid out the necessary connections. Which included, bringing in AC power to the base using a PC power supply connector, providing 12vDC out to the right speaker, stereo signal out that same speaker, and left signal back from the right speaker, to the back and back out on the left side where the speaker sits. All the connections to the speakers will be short since they will sit right adjacent to the connection panels.
I also put all of it in CPVC electrical fittings so the AC would meet normal building code, and protect it from damage when the base is being transported.
Once the connection plates were done, I created router templates and made the two pockets in the base. Here's the main one.
And here's the plate for it.
This is the left hand speaker plate in place.
Here's the CPVC fittings all installed.
The junction box will have this part on top of it, and above that will be an opening in the floor that I can reach to plug from there to the power supply and electronics box. The hole will be under the power supply to protect it.
AWESOME WORK! I keep coming back to this thread and I'm just impressed more and more with your workmanship.
Not much has been happening on the build to show photos of. New photos are below.
I did finish the power supply and speaker wiring project. It works great as the wall power plugs in like a PC and both speakers plug in as well.
Scottinthebooth, completed the electronics package. I'm very pleased with how it came out. He did a terrific job on this.
Once the power supply is connected and turned on, the 8-button remote has the following functions. 1. power on / off. 2. Windows, signs and PTO sign on / off 3. Beacon on / off (it just pulses slowly on and off). 4. chirp chirp sound effect. 5. materialize sound effect plus all the lights come on if they are not already on. 6. Dematerialize sound effect, plus all the lights go off at the end, if not already off. 7. Plays 11the doctor theme. 8. Cloister Bell with pulsing beacon endless play. This is the default mode.
To make assembly easier, each of the sign boxes, backlight boxes, walls and wiring connectors all have labels now.
I still have to make labels for each of the cables, because it's a bit of trouble to read the small letters we put on them when we make them up. Each cable is somewhat different in length, depending on where it goes.
I'm still working on my lantern. With new photos from Timerotor over a Tardis Builder's, there's good enough reference to draw the still-unknown-tip-top-lantern-source-nipple from. I've now done that, and my friend Adam will be machining one for me this week to make a mold of. That, combined with the lantern Primrodo sent me to mold should let me get a nice replica together. I've also purchased some acrylic tube to see if I can bead blast it to create a diffuser for the LEDs in the lantern. I also drilled vent holes in the bottom of the lantern so I can put a fan under it to vent warm air from inside the TARDIS. We'll see how that works out.
The PTO door sign is giving me a lot of trouble. The way it's lit is much more complicated than a simple backlight. I think I have it figured out, but am still testing.
Wayne from the UK has posted my chrome handles and chrome lock surround, so soon I'll be able to swap those out, which will be about the last thing other than the lantern and PTO sign to finish.
And on to the photos...
Here's a photo of the PTO sign, showing the letter effect from the lighting I'm trying to replicate. Thanks to Geminitimelord for the capture.
Last edited by Rebelscum; Mar 22, 2011 at 8:24 AM.
I love seeing this build!
Phil, how tall are the doors, by chance?
That looks very nice Philip! LMK if you ever want to sell it...I can pick it up this weekend...
The lit sign looks like the letters are clear with just the top painted black, or could that just be reflection from the production lighting ?
Not much has happened in the past couple of weeks. I received the chrome hardware from Waynevenemous in the UK and swapped it out. Quick photo below.
I'm just about ready to mold the more accurate lantern topper from Primrodo loaned to me. I have had the lantern topper nipple machined from aluminum so it can all be molded as one piece.
Still working on the Pull to open sign design to replicate the look shown above. All among many other things going on here in the shop.