Mold question - Jedi Comlink

Well, a few weeks ago I posted this:

http://www.therpf.com/f9/jedi-comlink-need-help-identify-components-41320/

This is the piece I have to copy.






Now, I am ready to do the mold, and since I am not an expert in this area, I would love to see what do you think guys? What kind of mold will be better for the body of the comlink. I already have Silicon RTV at my workshop and some experience doing molds boxes for my resin pouches.

simple mold or two pieces mold?

I have ZERO experience molding, but was thinking to do the grip piece separately when I try it.

Qui-Gonzalez said:

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I have ZERO experience molding, but was thinking to do the grip piece separately when I try it.

Why? cause It is made of rubber? Would be a bad idea use some agent to prevent the RTV silicon rubber to stick to that?

Could you use either a sealer or talcum powder on the silicone?

E-Wan said:

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Could you use either a sealer or talcum powder on the silicone?

I went to the shop today and told them about the rubber grip. They recommended me to brush the grip with Vaseline before apply the coat of silicon, so I will. Just bought the modeling clay and the Vaseline to do the mold.

PS: This is how I am planning to build the mold:
http://www.hirstarts.com/moldmake/moldmaking.html#iron

That's so funny - that's the exact same tutorial I had bookmarked for making mine!

E-Wan said:

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That's so funny - that's the exact same tutorial I had bookmarked for making mine!

Here is a video which is great. Enjoy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcRv__zNxYE

itsalive said:

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You could use

Spray on Cooking Oil

A Carnauba based furniture wax spray.

If you go with the Cooking Oil spray buy the one that bubbles the least (spray them on something in the store as a test..)

Car dash board wax spray might well but you'd have to be sure it wasn't a silicone based version of that stuff.

Carnaubu spray on furniture wax is the best thing I listed.

The Vaseline is too thick too pick up fine details, You have to thin it down with a solvent and airbrush it on too get the best possible results

Your best bet is too buy the release agent spray, but I'm figuring that might be an issue for you. Otherwise you wouldn't ask about this..

Hey, thanks. I was about to buy that release agent when they recommended me the Vaseline. We try that way, If don't work, will buy thatr release agent.

I was able to buy liquid Vaseline. So I guess that won't be any problem to spray over the grip part. Keep you posted guys. I have to build the mold box right now.

I may be wrong, but iirc I somwhere read that the rubber wave-pattern grip was not on the real prop.
Or was it the surounding rubber edge, due to a clean two part mold...?
I believe they removed one of those.

Stilgar said:

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I may be wrong, but iirc I somwhere read that the rubber wave-pattern grip was not on the real prop.
Or was it the surounding rubber edge, due to a clean two part mold...?
I believe they removed one of those.

Yes, they removed the back grip and the edge. The front grip remained.

the soft part of that gillette piece is NOT silicone, thus RTV won't stick to it. I molded one of these things right before TPM was released for the first Celebration, two part mold, no release needed. If i was to do it over again, i would separate the rigid halves and soft part for molding, but wouldn't be overly concerned about RTV sticking to anything as silicone only sticks to silicone, or very porous surfaces...

ytt1300 said:

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the soft part of that gillette piece is NOT silicone, thus RTV won't stick to it. I molded one of these things right before TPM was released for the first Celebration, two part mold, no release needed. If i was to do it over again, i would separate the rigid halves and soft part for molding, but wouldn't be overly concerned about RTV sticking to anything as silicone only sticks to silicone, or very porous surfaces...

Thanks for the advice. I will be extra careful with the grip then

Well, here is it how I am doing the mold. It is a "two parts mold". Just check the photo tutorial and tell me what you think. I did it this morning.







More high resolution photos here:
http://www.theforce.com.ar/Scripts/W...=2&lNewsId=181

Won't know If this went wrong or not cause I have to wait 24 hours. Since I am flying to Brazil tomorrow morning, won't know for sure until next Monday.

that's a nice mold. The part will be great I bet.

Since the back is flat, you probably could have gotten away with a dump mold...

kimncris said:

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that's a nice mold. The part will be great I bet.

Since the back is flat, you probably could have gotten away with a dump mold...

Thanks, let's hope that. And yes, could be true, but wanted to try it cause never did one of those before , It was a great excuse.

How about letting the mold line follow the seam line on the razor, where the front and back halves are connected? That would be the most natural, I think.
Also, put the pour spout at the top, at the "microphone" - that part would be covered mostly by greeblies.

Is that Legos surrounding the silicone? (or the same type of thing) If so, how was the leakage stopped?

silicone doesn't leak through the legos in my experience, it get inside the block a bit, but that's it. I tend to use doublesided tape for one part molds to stick the box to the surface.

LeMarchand said:

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silicone doesn't leak through the legos in my experience, it get inside the block a bit, but that's it. I tend to use doublesided tape for one part molds to stick the box to the surface.

Good to know... =D

I did the same. I removed the modeling clay. Looks good, have to buy more silicon rubber and finish the mold. Keep you posted guys.

Well, as the subject stated, the mold is done. Not the way I wanted. The two parts got melted, so I had to split them with a cutter. Worked out great anyway and the grip, which I was afraid of, is just fine.







More high resolution photos here:
http://www.theforce.com.ar/Scripts/W...=2&lNewsId=182

I will be offering the bodies finished and painted or as a kit, so If you are interested, just email me back. I will be trying to get the other parts to get a complete comlink as well.

if its the screen used version yes.

Wow! I'm impressed! It looks great - now we need to get to work identifying the parts!