Got a batch of this, and kinda wanna play with it but don't really want to screw anything up.
Any tips or tricks to this stuff? Don't use on paper, be careful of the work time, don't smooth with water, don't sand while nude, etc?
Any tips appreciated
Chris
Best tip I can give is on speeding up the cure. Normally it takes a good 24 hours or more to fully cure, but if you put it out in the summer sun (I was living in southern Missouri at the time so probably 90-95F outside) It will cure in at most a couple hours. Alternatively you can put it under a heat lamp to speed the cure if you need to.
It can be smoothed with water, no problem. Gives you plenty of work time as long as it's not too hot out.
Also, try to get it as smooth as you can before it sets.. after it sets rasps or like 60grit or lower sandpaper on an orbital sander, are your best bet to start, because the stuff is pretty hard to sand once it's fully cured.
Being an epoxy clay it is incredibly strong, just be careful because it can build up weight extremely fast.
I tried Magic Sculpt a while back and found it troublesome to work with. Sure, it works generally like clay and could be smoothed by water and all the other things that Aves Apoxie Sculpt can, but that product just does it better.
As mentioned it gets rock hard and difficult to sand compared to apoxie sculpt... it also feels different, less manageable, so I switched completely and never regretted it.
And yeah... don't sand while nude... you don't want to know where that dust can end up.
I have only ever used Milliput, but I think that these apply to this too:
* A small amount goes a long way.
* Clean under your fingernails after using it.
You have to use gloves when using Magic Sculpt and Apoxie Sculpt. I think something about the grease on your fingers can have a negative effect on the material and not have it cure properly to the desired effect.
I've never used Apoxie, but I use Magic Sculp all the time and that's never been an issue for me.Too Much Garlic said:
I use Magic Sculpt for bits & pieces, occasionally. I agree with some of what other folks have said, specifically getting it smooth/as close to the finished shape as possible before letting it set. {I'm currently using it for some prototyping of a cross of lorraine/'Magnum P.I.' ring...}
It's actually pretty firm once the two parts are kneaded together & doesn't sag much at all when you leave the completed piece to set. I haven't ever used gloves when working with it.
The only other stuff I've used which is even remotely close is 'All-Fix' which is really a different beast entirely.
Hope that helps a little...
Really? I must have mixed up what I read about apoxie sculpt with magic sculpt then. I just always used latex gloves when using magic sculpt.
Sorry for the confusion and thanks for the head's up. Had to check up on things and found this. Could be helpful? FAQ'S
Although it is not really a skin irritant and you won't ruin the magic sculpt with your finger oils, some people like wearing latex gloves while working with it so the putty won't pick up fingerprints. This way when you smooth it while wet, you have a nice smooth surface already.Too Much Garlic said:
I agree that its best attribute is that it dries rock hard and that you should get it as close as possible to shape before letting it dry. Smoothing with water works awesome. I find that it does not shrink or crack which is another benefit. It also seems to adhere pretty well to most surfaces. It sands ok for getting off fingerprints and making it a bit smoother (wear a mask, the dust is very fine.)
Reply with Quote