Laser cutting styrene

NeonHybrid

Member
I'm looking to cut some components from styrene and was hoping to laser cut them. They would be cut from 0.5mm and 1.5mm styrene.

I have heard there are some issues with laser cutting styrene such as poisonous fumes, melted edges and others. The laser I have access to has a full filter system and extracts outdoors so it's not an issue.

Is there anything I need to take into account or methods that would improve the cut quality.
 
Cutting anything that has chlorine in it like PVC generates chlorine gas, which despite your filtration system, might go in your lungs! Avoid! Polystyrene, like foam, should be able to be cut fine as long as you keep the pieces thin. Most table top laser systems have the power but not the focus to cut through an inch of material no matter how soft. The beam starts to spread and you get a ragged cut.

The thinness of the material you suggest should cut fine, just make sure it doesn't have chlorine.
 
I cut it occassionally.

Things to watch for mostly are around the material moving because of the heat. thin parts can literally lift up and turn sideways.

I usually cut it with the fastest speed that gets me through it with as much power as it takes. I always test. Set the speed, adjust the power till it's through.

Styrene doesn't contain pvc, so no worries there with fumes.
 
If you run the laser too hot, it will give you more melted edges. When I cut styrene (.5mm) I run the laser at about 20% power and 50% speed. If I were to run it at 40% power and 100% speed, it would leave much more obvious melted edges.
 
So it's been quite some time since I started this thread but I wanted to give some feedback and share what I have learned in the process. First hear is what I managed to do with the laser cutter using styrene.


IMG_0585 by NeonHybrid, on Flickr

The backing layer is 1.5 mm styrene as is the framing piece. This was cut at about 55% power and high speed. this was repeated until the cut went through the styrene. The dots were etched twice on about 30% power and 50% speed twice to get the depth. This can be done in one go but I ended up needing to do two cuts to get through the outline so doing it all twice was easier. I found the higher settings also tend to warp pieces when cutting thin sections.

The 0.5 mm was a lot harder as the laser cuts a very wide channel if set to high. For this I set it to roughly 20% power and 60% speed and cut about 6 times. This gives a narrow cut and avoids having to scale the parts up to compensate.

I also used 1 mm styrene on another componant which behaved a lot like the 0.5 with cutting but took the 1.5 settings for etching.

The main thing I took away from this project is that when cutting styrene set the power low and speed reasonably high. I used the torch on my phone to see if the cut was through the piece rather than risk taking it out and trying to position it perfectly back in place.
 
Looking Excellent.

The thing with cutting pvc or other plastics with chlorine is that not only is it bad for your lungs, but it is bad for your equipment. According to epilog it can deteriorate your optics, corrode the metal, and otherwise mess with your electronics. No bueno, regardless of filtration. =)
 
Looks nice and clean, I don't think any of these materials are very good for you or your equipment, mask and ventilation as much as possible :)
 
Styrene isn't a big problem as it doesn't contain chlorine which can corrode the metal parts of the laser cutter. Thankfully the laser cutter I use has a fancy filtration unit and then pumps that out the side of our 5th floor workshop.
 
Not to get off topic.. but what machine do you use? Cause I hate cutting that stuff :p and this looks like it cuts it super nice and clean. Do you have to clean it up at all, sanding etc..?
 
I will have a look on Monday as I can't remember just now. I seem to remember being told it was about £20,000. I'm not sure if that includes the external filter as well.

There is a bit of cleaning up but not much. A quick once over with some 240 girt wet and dry and then some 400 and it looks fine. The 0.5 can be a bit harder if you rush it but if you work your way through with multiple cuts there isn't much more in the way of cleaning up to do.
 
This is the laser cutter I use. It's made by Hobarts. The unit on the left is a filtration system which makes the gasses that come out the cutter a little less nasty. From here the filter pumps the air out a vent next to it.


IMG_0647 by NeonHybrid, on Flickr
 
This is the laser cutter I use. It's made by Hobarts. The unit on the left is a filtration system which makes the gasses that come out the cutter a little less nasty. From here the filter pumps the air out a vent next to it.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8236/8491890449_4d7e42432f.jpg
IMG_0647 by NeonHybrid, on Flickr

Oh dear, oh dear. The filtration system you refer to is just a standard re-badged pre-filter and Carbon filter unit made by Bofa

I would doubt very much it's rated for cutting any thing that releases Chlorine when cut. There are special units specificaly available for cutting PVC and as far as I'm aware Universal Laser dont make a specific stainless steel constructed laser cutter/engraver in thier range.

Please check the manufacturers instruction and material guide lines otherwise you could void the warranty.

However your correct styrene (most commonly know as HIPS) doesn't contain chlourine when cut, not to get confused with Foamex sheets that do !.

Peanuts
 
Hi,
I'm newto the forum and thanks forthe interesting comments above... I'm new to the world of laser cutting andjust did my first job (of guitar parts) with some problems... I'm not anoperator.. I designed the stuff and local cutter did the job... so let me explain.
I'm usedto buying anything (guitar parts, key ring chains etc) that's been laser cutand it's absolutly pristine.. I guess I expected that with my stuff... howeverwhat I got back was real messy on the underside .. see photos....
I used 3ply of what I thought was acrylic (with a plastic peel off layer on top forprotection)... I'm now guessing it wasn't... aside from the burn marks visualon the underside it's a little tacky to the touch, rubs into your fingers anddoesn't come off and stinks to high heavens... put it in a room and immediatelythe room with stink of this stuff.... the boot of my car reaks and I can't putit in the apartment.
So, theoperator said at least something (maybe the middle ply or more) wasn'tacrylic... anyone have ideas what it is and how I can resolve the problem, howI can clean these parts up?.... and considering all this, how do they getthe guitar parts that I buy (also pictured) so pristine?? Thanks! 1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg

1.jpg


2.jpg


3.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Not to keep the thread hijacking going, but it sounds like one of the layers is a sort of poly-carbonate, which doesn't cut as much as it just melts.
 
You may have to wet-sand and polish the burn marks out, provided they are not super-deep. Perhaps test the underside and do only a small window. Maybe 1000 grit to start and go on up.
 
That's engravers laminate, unless you bought the laser stuff it wont give a clean cut. It also looks like the engravers bed wasn't so clean, there shouldn't be that many burn marks. The brown stuff should wipe off with baby wipes.
 
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